Aged Tile/Wood Floors: I decided to use the peel-and-stick tiles. I picked some up at Lowe's yesterday - - VERY cheap! And it looks great. If I didn't know better, I'd think it was real marble. It went very well as I used a paper cutter to cut the tiles into 1" squares. One tip for anyone else planning to try this, lightly sand all of the edges of each tile before installing. They look much nicer. I also got the floor done in the attic "store room". I used a wood floor and aged it by denting it with the blunt end of my craft knife, then scratching it. Next, I added stain, and aged it some more. A little antiquing gel along the edges, and to add some "stains", and its done!

Sloan

Stone Floor: I am doing a stone floor. My method evolved because I am actually incapable of leaving anything alone. First I bought 2 Vinyl tiles for 55 cents (Canadian) each. They look exactly like stone. But, being me, I thought "what would it look like if I cut out the stones?" So I cut the tile into random sizes of flagstones. The trick to this is that you have to round off the edges with a file. It looks much better.

Then lay out a grid on a piece of square illustration board, or whatever you have on hand. These tiles have a sticky backing, so you just lay them down in a random pattern, but keeping them more or less straight to the lines you drew. Finally, I outlined each slab with a permanent marker. Doing them on a 6 inch square means you can do this while watching television or whatever you do and it doesn’t seem so daunting as trying to do a whole floor at once with your head stuck inside a tiny space.

I am going to try spackle or caulking as a grout, don’t know yet, but I did not use a spacer when I stuck them down and will just fill in the odd spaces. This looks exactly like a flagstone floor, needs no expensive finishing, and the tiling is easily cut with a pair of scissors.

Doris Tie

Contact Paper: I once used contact paper that looked like the old linoleum and was really happy with it. Unfortunately it was one of the things I lost in the fire and can't find the same. I don't know if the new stuff that is repostional would work, I looked at it once and didn't think it would stick. I also used paper (bought not printed from computer) in a 144 house and just covered it with nail polish because I wanted it shiny. It is still looks nice some 20 years later.

Kathleen in Colorado

Craft Sticks for Flooring: I used craft sticks to make my floors in my dollhouses. I cut off and sanded the rounded ends. Then I cut them according to the pattern that I wanted to follow. Next I glued them down with Elmers wood glue. Once all the craft sticks were in place I sanded the entire floor until it was smooth. Next I stained it and then went back with black paint and put in all the black dots for the nails. Once that was done I then varnished the floor. That gave me a wonderfully inexpensive wooden floor.

Lisa Carreiro

Cork Floor: We recently had a flood and as part of the fixing up, had one of our landings done in a cork floor by a friend who manufactures them for a living.  we all love the feel and look so much that I was determined to incorporate it into my dh. It came out great!! Not perfect, but great. I thought I'd share what I did -- in case anyone wants to try it. (BTW cork is soft, not hot in summer nor cold in winter, great for allergies, and very durable.) I found a roll of cork at AC Moore(about 1/8" thick).  I cut a template to fit the floor out of brown paper and cut many 1/2 inch square "tiles". My floor is roughly 9" square tiles and this seemed an easy to manage size -- if not 100% accurate. I also cut 1/2" strips for the border. I stained the border strips a darker color and left the rest plain.  I then glued the pieces onto the paper, placing them as diamonds rather than squares. I placed the borders first and then cut and trimmed as needed to make it all meet. Then I polyurethane the whole floor--3 coats. After it was dry-- I glued the paper to my dh floor. I used quick grab and so far so good.  everyone has been impressed and I'm kinda proud of it too.

Carol

Dulling a Gold Finish: it sounds like the jewelry finding you're working with has a smooth surface instead of filigree, so the usual antiquing (paint black or dark brown, then rub off quickly before dry so paint sticks only in the details) wouldn't work.  You might get a similar all over effect by spray painting black or brown very lightly -- put the piece in a box or paper grocery bag and aim the spray next to the finding instead of directly at it, so just a faint mist hits the metal.  Or if that doesn't work, you could try mixing a couple of drops of dark acrylic paint into some Mod Podge and painting that over the metal.  That would be slightly matte and slightly darker when it dried.

Loretta Sniarowski

Dulling a Gold Finish: The product that will darken silver, gold, copper, or bronze is called "Silver Black" by Griffith Distribution. I bought mine at a well-equipped bead store, and I have seen it in lapidary or jeweler's supply shops and at jewelry supply booths at gem shows. It seems to be Hydrochloric acid, in case you know a chemist. You paint it on the areas that you want to be darker, then rinse it off after it has darkened enough. You can rub some off with a cloth to lighten certain areas. Obviously, you have to be careful, as it is very corrosive. If your pin is plated plastic instead of metal, I would not try this method. If it is a base metal, you could try a tiny bit on the back first. Another approach that may work, is to just leave the pin in a very sunny window for a week or two, which may tarnish it. Or, you could use a bit of antiquing gel, and wipe off the excess.

Terri Rowe, Columbus, OH

Dulling a Gold Finish: To tone down an overly-shiny metallic object, I just use plain old brown or black shoe polish, or waterproof mascara. Glob it on, wipe it off gently with soft cloth or paper towel to "antique" it. WAIT TO DRY-- may take overnight depending on how humid your climate is. Once it is dry, spray with a matte finish clear spray. I have done that for some shiny brass items and it seems to work well. Some people use liquid shoe polish, some use paste. I've used both with equal success. The only problem you may encounter is that if your item is costume jewelry it may have a clear finish over the metal and that might repel the "antiquing" you're trying to achieve. When I tried it, it was with raw, unfinished brass.

Debbie Jones

Dulling a Gold Finish: A couple of things you might try with the jewelry. If it has a lacquer coating you will need to remove it. That is often enough to darken the metal. If it isn't, you can dip it in a bath of sulfur (a little bit in water). Otherwise, you can use a stain (like a wood stain) or even thinned down paint in a dark color, paint it on and wipe it off until you like the look.

Jacqui in Hilo, Hawaii

Painting Exterior: I paint the exterior after putting the house together, before installing window, door, and edge trims. Also before installing any wallpaper or floors to avoid splatters. Paint all trim before cutting and installing. You can touch up the miters after assembly. I learned a trick from an "old timer" to purchase or use, a door & window to test color schemes if using several colors. That way you can change your mind and try another scheme until you find just the right combination for your particular house. Another "trick" is to use a crumpled piece of brown paper bag (watch that there is no printing on it) to use as "sandpaper" between coats of paint.  It works great as it is more gentle than sandpaper and makes a very smooth finish. Be sure to let any paint dry a good 24 hrs before working with it so the paint has time to harden. I think we  sometimes try to rush. If nothing else, Mini's teach you patience. I usually use 2 or 3 coats as I feel it gives it more depth, and is sure to catch any "holidays" ie: missed spots.

Diane in SF Bay area

Fabric Wall Covering: I have often used fabric instead of wallpaper. It's just a more comfortable thing for me to manipulate; besides which I usually have such good stuff left from sewing and buying way too many remnants. As always, prime the bare wood and sand smooth. Cut fabric slightly bigger than the wall. Then apply paste to the wall and smooth the fabric over the paste (old credit card is a good for applying and smoothing). When dry, trim excess w/newly bladed X-Acto. Trim out windows from outside the house. Obviously this assumes you can get the windows out. When you can't, that's probably when you need to use the card template method. I have used Mini-Graphics wallpaper mucilage and bet that similar products would work as well. Rooms "fabric-ed" 20 or more years ago still looking fine; on the other hand, one that I recently decided to change came off cleanly and easily. So give it a try!

Ginger in PA

Fabric Wall Covering: The reason for the card as I understand it is so you can have easy access to what is underneath, a smooth surface to work on, easier to manipulate-- think of it as "drywall". If you ever have to do anything with electrical wiring and you have glued the covering to the wall, you will have to tear off the fabric first, which can cause more problems than it might be worth in the long run (having to replace fabric that may have been discontinued since you last looked for it, damaging wiring etc.). Gluing the fabric right over the wires may leave a wire trail under the fabric as well, which probably would look worse than the thickness problem. That is my guess, anyway.

Kim in Canada

Fabric Wall Covering: Is it ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY to make a template and/or use card stock underneath?

No. It is not. In fact, I never have. I prime the walls, then paint a color that is least likely to show through. If the background of your fabric is white, you would paint the wall white. Likewise, it the background of you fabric is red, paint the walls red. I usually apply the fabric with decoupage medium. I see no reason why a mixture of 3 parts tacky glue to 1 part water wouldn't work just as well.

Sloan

Old Painted Sign on Building: I thought of a couple of ways you might do this. First, depending on what the side of the building is, brick, smooth wood, etc. You might scan a picture of the ad into a graphics program and print out on transfer paper. Iron the transfer paper to the wood (preferably before assembling.) It will probably transfer with tiny pieces missing anyway but you could then scrape little bits from the edges and sand a little on the surface. Then apply an aging mixture made of raw umber and raw sienna, or gold and brown acrylic paint watered down to be transparent. Apply then wipe off with a soft cloth until you like the appearance. The second way would be to use a "real size" antique label or print one and decoupage it to the side of the building. This is done using a product called Mod Podge, or similar, to "paste" it to the building side. (I always though you could probably use white glue instead..) Then apply a couple of coats on top. Use the same techniques as above to age it. This is a good site for old fashioned labels http://www.thelabelman.com/

Another possible way might be to use Picture This or similar transfer medium. It is originally meant to transfer pictures from paper to cloth. Use a photocopy of the label and apply the transfer medium and let dry overnight. When completely dry wet the paper side really well and using your finger push back and forth on the paper to peel it off. When you are done you should have transparent "decal". Apply this to the side of the house and antique. This method I haven't actually tried so you will have to "experiment".

Barbara D.

Old Painted Sign on Building: For aging posters on the side of a building try a dilute solution of house hold bleach. Apply it so that parts of the sign fade away.

Dr. Bob

Old Painted Sign on Building: I remembered that there is an article in the March 01, issue #81, of Dolls House and Miniature Scene magazine from Britain. There is a web site www.emfpublishing.co.uk and email is dolltedemf@aol.com. the article is called "A Country Smithy part 2" and it is on pp.22-25. Hope you can get a copy.

June in London, Ontario Canada

Old Painted Sign on Building: I would suggest the following:

[1] Decide on the ad desired for building. Either scan it through your computer or have it copied at your nearest copy shop. When having the printing done ask for the lightest possible print. Have at least 3 copies made  -- allows for mistakes. If doing on your computer set the print quality for the lightest available [go into properties in the printer setup dialog box]. After printing off copies with the desired result. Be sure to back and RESET the print quality to NORMAL. Can't emphasize that enough.

[2] Spray the copies with a fixative spray. You purchase this at an art supply or art & frame store. Might also find at Michael’s, Aaron Brothers. Let dry thoroughly.

[3] Decide on the size and how much of the ad you want to actually see on the building. Begin TEARING the edges of the print to size to get the "old, ragged look".

[4] Apply YES glue to back of print. Apply to building and let dry at least 24 - 36 hours.

[5] Apply Matte finish Mod Podge over the print. Let dry 24 hours.

[6] Apply antiquing gel or your mix of "dirty wash" over the print and side of building. If using antiquing gel wipe off gently to create effect desired. You might also want to sand paper the ad prior to antiquing it depending on the effect you want.

Patricia, Redwood City

Separating carpet/wood: Tricia asked: >>I'm not even sure what it's really called, but what do you use on the floor to divide carpeting/wood flooring between doorways? In my real house, it's a brass strip of some sort.<<

I use wood strips, flat on the bottom, rounded on top.

Carol

THRESHOLDS: A threshold is usually made of the same wood as the floors, and is ideally the same width as the door jamb. It is a piece of wood which lays on top of the floors to hide the joint between rooms or types of flooring. It is beveled on both sides to prevent tripping or stubbing one's toe. You can find beveled oak thresholds ready-made at most hardware / building stores, if you want to look at one.
The metal strips are a modern version.

Hilda

Carpet thresholds: I've used the foil cap liners from yogurt tubs rolled into strips, cut to fit the doorway, and sprayed gold (the thresholds in my big house are brass), with snipped-off sequin pinheads for the screws; just tacky-glue into place. The yogurt foil has just the right texture.

Loretta Sniarowski