Diamond Dusting Ceilings: Carolyn's sling suggestion reminded me of something. A former dollhouse shop owner in my area used wooden "cradles" to support upside-down houses for ceiling finishing.

There were two pairs of them, made from plywood, and cut at the pitches (angles) of most roofs. The roof opening was cut out of a square piece of wood, and then "feet" were attached to stabilize it. It is really hard to describe this in words!!

If you were looking down from above, it would be like this:

Anne Gerdes

To get the "diamond dust" on the ceiling, turn the work upside down so the ceiling is "down" and then paint a coat of Elmer's  glue (which dries clear) on to the ceiling. Wait a few moments and then sprinkle your "diamond dust" onto the ceiling. The stuff is so light that it will sit on top of the glue and become fixed when the glue dries.

DrBob...Delray Beach, FL

DON'T Diamond Dust on the Ceiling: I think it was Yvonne who was interested in doing this.  My first reaction, is don't sprinkle on anything.  No matter how much glue/paint you use, it will filter off on the floor and furniture as time goes by.  Ever tried to clean up that stuff?  It sticks to everything.

Ceramcoat by Delta makes a "Sparkle Glaze".  It is a milky (dries clear) medium with sparkle in it.  Just brush it on.  A lot easier and neater than trying to turn the house upside down.

I make Christmas ornaments of miniature scenes each year for my grandchildren.  One year I sprinkled the glitter on quilt batting for snow. The container was then sealed.  Everytime it was moved around, static electricity had the glitter all over everything.  Never again!!

Ruth Mazur

Mortar: Most miniature mortars are cleaned up with a wet sponge.  Go over it once, let it dry, then do it again, as many times as necessary.  If you used tile grout or some real concrete product, then you clean it with muratic acid.

Tom

Cleaning mortar off bricks:  For removing the filmy look off bricks,  I have used plain old vinegar on a damp rag. Rinse rag and redo works super.  It smells for awhile then goes way. Leaves the bricks like new.

Sandra

Modpodge : Modpodge is the brand name of a decoupage medium.  Looks like tacky glue in the bottle, but dries to a clear, soft matte finish.  Very useful in miniaturing if you want to decoupage plates as discussed recently on SS, and also if you like painted furniture but don't have the skill to do it yourself.  Find an attractive print or giftwrap in mini scale, paint one of those cheap unfinished wooden pieces a harmonizing color, cut the print to fit the door or drawer fronts, decoupage, and you have lovely "painted" folk art furniture.  Decoupage marble paper for countertops.  Decoupage patterns onto fabric to make faux embroidery, to add a matte "glaze" to bead pottery, etc.  Many mini uses.

Loretta.Sniarowski

Roombox Exterior: I make most of my boxrooms to a custom size to fit snugly into a built in bookcase, so I usually paint them dark brown to match.  Not too exciting. One boxroom I have that is free standing is from a kit (Carlson's maybe? I don't remember for sure- it was one that my Grandmother bought and never made so I eventually inherited the kit years later).

This roombox was made into a SW trading post. I used spackle to texturize the outer walls and create areas where the stucco was "crumbling" and showing the adobe bricks underneath. I made mission tile for the front out of white styrene tubing that I sliced in half lengthwise and then sectioned off and painted.

Bonnie Gibson

Painting or wallpapering foamcore: You might consider using "Stick um" instead of painting.  It is sticky on both sides and makes papering and carpeting jobs easy.  The sheets I think are about 6" X 10  or 12".  2 sheets per package.  Available at miniature stores.

Jackie

Decoupage Transfer Medium: The decoupage transfer medium that we get here is a milky fluid that comes in a bottle.  For the benefit of the South Africans on the list (Hi) it is made by Dala and is called Transfer Glaze.  The bottle says "Used by French decoupeurs together with podge, deco varnish and crackle glaze."(sic)  A product of South Africa KV art materials PO Box 430 Tableview 7441.

You paint 2 coats over any picture.  Leave to dry.  and then cut out the picture and soak it in water for 30 minutes or more.  You can then rub the paper off the back and you have a transfer.  (I think you may call them decals, but you know what I mean.)  I use them to decorate my plates.  It looks very much like modge podge but I don't know if it is used in the same way.  Any decoupeurs out there - French or otherwise??

Barbara B from Cape Town, South Africa

Transfer medium:  We *do* have something similar in the States. J. Hermes Company puts out a product called "Super Sealer" that can be used the way you describe. It can also be brushed on paper to give it a high gloss – say a wood floor pattern, or stipple onto a picture to make it look more like a painting.

Dani, in Bradshaw, MD

Gold Leaf: I was in error about spraying the gold leaf with sealer. The Icon is sprayed to seal it BEFORE the gold leaf is applied.

Deborah

Tissue Wallpaper: Experiment with tissue paper to see what you can do with it. I used a pieces of gold tissue with a muted gold leaf pattern on it to create a wall paper. The piece was very crumpled so I crumpled it some more. Then I used my regular iron set on low (and dry) to smooth it out. Attached to the wall (which was actually cardboard in a frame) with spray adhesive and smoothed out with a brayer. A few wrinkles were simply rolled flat and added to the very antique look. Then several coats of decoupage medium and it was finished. Looked wonderful.

Marcie

Painting Plastic: Spray the plastic with Krylon sandable primer first. Make sure the acrylic paint you use is slightly watered down. This way it will leave no brush marks.

Mary Kay

Painting Plastic: Try using a product called Kilz on the plastic before attempting to paint it. I believe it comes in a spray version, but if not the brush on will be fine. You can find it at Home Depot.

Pam

Painting Plastic: Try washing the houses in hot, soapy water.

Diana

Painting Chrysnbon: I was in Lisa Engler's class and she uses plain old acrylic paint, and extender. Lisa coats it with gloss acrylic varnish. But it's not as easy as it looks unless you are an experienced painter. You can wash off mistakes with a q-tip or rub off paint that got into the center of a saucer with a toothpick. The blue is the trickier for some reason (Lisa doesn't know why either) it flows into the plastic so mistakes are harder to fix. She pounces with q-tips, dry-brushes, dots & paints - so there are a lot of techniques.

Linda

Painting Plastic: I have had pretty good luck painting almost any resistant surface if I spray them with clear MATTE spray finish and let them dry thoroughly first.

Nancy

Painting Plastic: There is a product available here in NZ called Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Primer Sealer Stain Killer, recommended by paint specialists as suitable for painting over plastic, Formica, varnish etc. It is so easy to use - water based - top coat in one hour. You can use either water-based or oil-based top coat. The manufacturer is William Zinsser & Co, 39 Belmont Drive, Somerset, NJ 08875. It was so easy to use.

Pam

Painting Plastic: Suggestion for painting plastic, is to spray paint it first with what ever color she wants as a base coat. All the 1/4" windows and doors are plastic and that is what is suggested for them. I prefer the Testors hobby paint as it sprays lighter than some of the other spray paints. You should also put them on wood or cardboard with a double stick tape so they do not move around while you are spray the items.

Isabel

Painting Plastic: Try scruffing up the plastic finish with a bit of sandpaper to give the paint or gesso some "tooth". Acrylic paints should stick to the gesso undercoat then.

Betti in MS