Distressed Ceiling Beams: The wood we started with was about 1" deep by about 1/4". We were given basswood that we trimmed down from 24" long, and the first step was to soften the two bottom edges with a router (but not the top edges, which were later glued to the ceiling). Carol Hardy supplied us with pictures of all kinds of beams in situ, and after that, we kinda did our own thing. I went for the dark-stained, overly distressed look, so you might like my answers.

First, I did all the logical things with my x-acto blade, knicking them on the sides and bottom edges. But the wood looked smooth and modern between the knicks, so I dragged really course sandpaper across the grain in a manner that I thought simulated old saw blade marks. Then I did a preliminary stain to see how the effect was coming. Of course, I wanted more. So I wiped off as much of the fresh stain as I could and went outside to the cement sidewalk and benches, which had a nice, rough texture. I laid the beams down, one at a time, between the cement and a piece of rough sandpaper and then began tapping them firmly with a (large Tim Allen) hammer. On the top side, they would pick up imprints of the sandpaper, and on the bottom side they would pick up imprints of the sand and small stones from the cement. I was very pleased. After that it was just a final coat of stain. Then some deft. Then some steel wool. Then I put my favorite beam in the front of the room because, after all, the others are nearly invisible unless you're a 1/12 cat chasing a spider on the beam.

Lynn O'Shaughnessy

Shingling: When putting on shingles and trying to work around gables and such; take a piece of paper,lay it on the angle and press into the angle with a butter knife or a pencil. This will make a line you can use to cut the proper angles on the end shingles that need to line up with the angle.

Elizabeth in Ann Arbor

Tiled floors - Have you done any cross stitch? The reason I asked, I made my own kitchen floor using 10 count plastic canvas and cross stitched a design on it ...mine is a group of flowers in the center then a green boarder all around the outside edge, then I took thread and back stitched every 10 holes all the way around to get the tile effect. Everyone absolutely loves it :o)

Dana

Flooring - you own a computer, let's put it to work for us...if you have any type of draw program you can make simple, easy flooring for your dh. Let's say you want a design in a diagonal check.

Draw a square slightly larger than your room (we're going to do a kitchen). Most drawing programs have a fill tool and a pattern fill tool. What we want is a fill tool. Chose a pattern for your floor, then chose the colors (say red and white). Click apply and there it is. Print on card stock, then using laminate sheets (not expensive from office supply or Walmart) cover the top. You can then score on the lines through the laminate and you will have that special pattern you couldn't find elsewhere.

Jinger

Wallpaper and Paint - I use a bookbinders paste/glue I get at Earth & Tree. I believe it is acid free and it pretty much works like regular wallpaper paste. It is not as thin as wallpaper paste but you apply it to the back of the paper with a rubber-like card (credit cards also works) stick it to the wall adjust it and then wipe it flat with a cloth. It works best with the sizes type of papers.

As for prepainting! This depends on the type of wood your house is made from. If it is furniture grade plywood then you can probably get away with it. If it is Luan or another wood with knots etc I recommend you prime first. I use Kilz2 for priming. It seals like Kilz but is water based. I 'm currently doing a roombox and if I decide to paint any walls or ceiling they will most likely primed (sealed) first. I feel it adds depth to the walls. I may be wrong but if I simply paint a wall without sealing it seems that it looks like a painted piece of wood. If I seal first it looks like a painted wall. Another thing is many times you paint wood and you can still see the grain through the paint . So you throw on another coat and then there is too much buildup. Most any book on finishing advises to seal wood before you paint. I think the exception is milk paint.

Bill

Plastic Dinnerware - I paint the plastic "plates" with gesso first. When dry, I paint as desired.

Gloria

Ageing copper - My husband is a photographer who does his own darkroom work, including toning some of his prints in brown or sepia toner. This toner contains sulfur, which ages copper beautifully. When I have copper I want aged, I use a little of his toner when he's through with it. I would imagine anyone could go to a good photo/camera store and buy a packet of brown toner and mix it up. I recommend the brown over the sepia - smells less, but still stinks - use outdoors!

Beth

Stucco: Another use for the 'stucco' wallpaper useful for ceilings. Try using it for exterior 'stucco' as well. You can then paint over it any color you like. It hides a multitude of mistakes and makes other people (non miniaturists) think how clever you are! I use it a lot for the outsides of box rooms and vignettes for a really nice finish.

Judy Foster

Crown Molding: The best way to fit the molding is to use a mini miter box and saw. Miter the molding ceiling side down. What this means is to turn the molding upside down when you miter it. I suggest that you practice on some scrap wood first.

Carol

Crown Molding: I asked my husband who is a carpenter. He says it helps to be dyslexic. Baring that, here's how he explained it to me. It works if you label your miter box. The bottom of the miter box becomes the ceiling of the dh because you have to turn the molding over when you go to cut it. The back of the miter box becomes the wall of the dh. When you cut the molding, the right-hand corner of the miter box, becomes the left-hand corner on the dh ceiling and the left-hand corner of the miter box becomes the right-hand corner on the dh ceiling. I won't tell you how many pieces of wood I wasted before I asked for help! A trick I use sometimes, is after you label your miter box, draw it on a piece of paper and keep it where you can see it.

Grace Shaw

Crown Molding:

1. Cut your molding as it stands upright, just the way it will fit against the ceiling. Don't lay it flat. (I believe you are supposed to turn it upside down, too. Try some practice cuts with some small pieces of your molding.)

2. Cut from front (the side with the design on it) to back. That means the side with the design on it will be facing you. If you cut from back to front, the fit is not as good.

3. Cut your pieces too long and then nibble away until you get a perfect fit.

Barbara

Wallpapering: If you are like me and find you want to change the decor in your house or roombox later, paint you walls with semi-gloss paint before wallpapering. The paper will stick, no problem, but will be easier to remove later than just primer or a flat paint.

Pat M.

Painting metal: A lot depends on how detailed the items are that you are painting. I sell a lot of metal miniatures that have a lot of detail and I use Floquil paints. They can be bought at most railroad hobby stores. They are a fine pigment petroleum distillate based paint meant for tiny metal items. Yes, you should use a primer underneath them. You should also be sure to wash them with warm soapy water and allow them to thoroughly dry before painting.

For something larger, you can use a paint that is thicker. In fact, I wouldn't recommend Floquil on a larger flat surface as the paint dries to the touch very quickly. It is best to wait 24 hours between coats though. And use in a well ventilated area. Any paint that says it can be used on metal will probably work. Just follow the directions. There are some acrylic based paints meant for small miniatures as well. I haven't tried them. Floquil is quite durable. Hope this helps.

Debbie Olsen

Painting on plastic: I've been painting mini plastic slippers and found that a coat or two of water based Kilz creates a wonderful base for acrylic paints. Getting the Kilz on takes a little patience but it works.

W. Marie in Edmonds, WA

Painting on plastic: Tamiya Brand paints are made for painting plastics. They are waterbased, come in small jars, and are sold at most model (train) stores. They have a bit of a bad aroma, but the results are worth it.

Roz Weitzman in Toronto, Canada

Fixative and/or Primer: I keep a small non-aerosol bottle of hairspray (lacquer base) on my work table. I've used this for years to set chalk drawings and other works from my art students. I love it for a quick lacquer finish to a small piece of wood or a fast primer.

Becky

Gold finish for chandelier: Have a look at this internet site:

www.baremetal.com

They sell sheets of gold (others too, like chrome and black chrome) for use on model cars, airplanes etc. I am sure this would give you that lovely smooth gold finish you want on your chandelier. The sheets cost $5 each but you'd only need one. I am sure they would provide instructions as well. I have been thinking of getting some just to have on hand in case a need arises. Does anyone have any first hand experience with this product?

Penny Johnson

Flagstone Flooring: Joanne Swanson had an article in Dollhouse Miniatures, October 2000, for a Wizard's Room box and she gave instructions on doing a flagstone floor. You can get back copies by going to the Dollhouse Miniatures web site.

I did the floor, haven't painted it yet, but so far it looks good. At first I wasn't happy with it but after a few tries got the hang of drawing the stones. Best to practice on paper until you figure out how to outline the stones.

Elizabeth

Painting Lines with Shaky Hands: If you find your hand shakes when painting, use the old manicurist's trick of pinky-to-pinky. Brace your hand by placing the pad of the pinky of one hand on the pad of the pinky of the other.

Mary Eccher

Painting Lines with Shaky Hands: I don't know exactly what you are painting, or with what kind of paint, but two solutions come to mind. You may need to buy a paintbrush with shorter and/or stiffer bristles. Or, I do a lot of detail painting with the point of a toothpick. I can choose ones from the box that have the proper size point for the pupil of an eye, or to touch up a small spot I missed on something I painted previously. You can even sand or cut them to a configuration you need!

Alice Zinn