For aging Shingles... I've heard that some people use a solution made of india ink and denatured alcohol. I personally like to use Thomas's Bug Juice for aging shingles, but you can achieve the same result by soaking steel roofing nails in vinegar, until the nails are well rusted, and then just drain off and strain the liquid. It gives a nice silver grayed "old" look. I apply the solution before applying the shingles to the structure. If you use only a strong dot of glue in the upper center of the shingle before applying it, you can achieve a slightly warped look, by lightly wetting the roof after all of the shingles have been set. Use a dampened sponge brush and stroke downward, basically getting just the middle and bottom edges. Too wet a brush will loosen the shingles...this you don't want. To finish the illusion, brush the edges of the shingles in a downward stroke with a steel brush.. This is not my technique, I learned it from taking several classes from Noel Thomas who is a true genius at aging.

Carol Wagner

Shingles: I put the shingles on first, and then used Min-wax Gel Stain. This stuff RULES! Its not drippy, takes a lot of stirring before you start (I use craft sticks) but it goes on great. It takes a bit longer then regular stain because its not as fluid, so it doesn't just brush on and you can keep going forever. BUT, its worth it in my book, because it doesn't drip, it stays right where you put it, so you don't have to worry that it is going to ruin your house. I also only did one side, and the edges that showed on the ends of my house. I haven't had a problem with buckling or anything like that.

Lil Ole Eeyore Girl

Shingles, I mixed a wood stain with varnish, 50-50, and dipped my shingles in it with tweezers, one at a time and leaned them on long welding rods placed on a card table overnight. The next day, I glued them on, one at a time and they look great. I never had any warp that way. They say the warping comes from only painting one side of the wood and that is the reason I did it the way I did. It worked almost like mass production.

Margaret in Michigan

Applying shingles. Lay out a straight edge on your workbench about 12 to 18 inches long. Could be a ruler or a piece of wood, just so it's thicker than your shingles. Line up a row of shingles against the straight edge. Take a long piece of masking tape and apply to the shingles, lift and stick an end of the tape to the edge of your workbench. Make a dozen or more. Using a tacky wood glue (Roo Glue for wood is good,) you can apply a row of shingles at a time. Usually, by the time you get to the end of the first row, the original row is set, remove the masking tape and apply the next row. Sure beats gluing on one at a time!!

Also, remember to apply a row of half shingles or a spacer board the same thickness under your first row, flush with the edge of the roof. This keeps each row at the same angle.

Ruth

I have found the best thing for shingles is an alcohol soluble analine dye. You can get it from wood workers shops (one of which is 1-800-645-9292 for a catalog). Because its alcohol, it dries quickly and doesn't warp the shingles. Glue them on with tacky, then brush on the dye.

Tom Berkner

Thatched Roofing: For material, use Raffia or broom bristles. Tie the material in bundles and glue these to the roof. If you own a staple gun, the bundles can be attached with the gun. It helps to work from a picture of a real thatch in front of you. As with slats, start with the bottom row and work upwards, so that each row overlaps the row before. Dormer windows are tricky to work around: cover the section over each dormer separately, before tackling the main roof so that you can make an overlap at the top. Trim the edges neatly to shape with a pair of strong scissors, remembering that thatch always has rounded corners and should overhang the edge of the roof.

Sallie H

Thatch for a 1/4 house: how about fringing out grosgrain ribbon?

Martha Simpson Nock

Thatch for a 1/4 house: I saw in Micro-Mark and purchased some "field grass" that is actually some kind of long fur. I think it would make great 1/4 inch scale thatching. You can get it in a variety of colors, including a golden brown. In my latest catalog it is on page 82. Harvest gold is item #81700. If you don't have their catalog, their phone number is 1-800-225-1066. You could probably also get the same thing in a railroad or hobby store. It is dirt cheap.

Susan from St. Croix

Painting vinyl and aluminum: If you use a regular spray paint lightly first, you can then paint with regular acrylic paints. Any old spray paint will work but use a base color you want or is easy to cover.. i.e. black base under black paint but not if you want to paint it a light color. Sound like common sense but I have seen it done. However, if you want to make a weathered item that is rusted if you use rust color base, paint the color you desire and lightly sand your paint in areas you can let the rust show through the paint.

Anita McNary-Haynes

Metal Miniatures: I always soak my metal miniatures in plain vinegar to cover for about 15 to 30 minutes. Then I rinse them off, dry well and then paint. My chemist daughter tried to explain why this works but it didn't sink in I only know it does work.

Patricia

Copper Patina: If you leave copper outside, it will either turn a very dark brown (almost black) or a light green. One is cuperous oxide, the other cuperic oxide. Most jewelry supply companies (like Rio Grande) offer various solutions to turn metals many different colors (including the above). Any miniature shop can provide you with Patina-it (a safe chemical way to turn copper green - verdis gris) from Dee's or Handley House.

Tom Berkner

Copper Patina: There is an easier (i.e., less hazardous) way to age copper. Use your aging mixture that you made a few months ago using vinegar and steel wool or vinegar in which you've allowed a nail to rust.

Dottie in Tucson

Copper Patina: I have found some black patina (for lead and solder) by Classique (only $3.99 for a lifetime supply), which will darken it instantly. Is there something equally simple that will make it green?

Copper Patina

Plank floors: Why not use edge banding for plank floors. I have done two floors with this and they look super. It irons on and is real strip wood. The real use for this is the edges of counter tops. Three quarters of an inch wide, fifty feet long for twelve dollars.

Doris of Ottawa, Canada

Castle stairs and stairails: I think that the "rope" idea is good. If you used wood, you would have to score it to facilitate the curve, then soak it in water, bend the curve and clamp it and let it dry.

With the "rope," you could glue jump rings (they come in silver and gold tones - I think that I would paint them black) to the wall, run the "rope" through it with a knot tied at the top and bottom. You could even add another one on the outside edge of the stairs by using T pins. I would cut a small piece of plastic tubing (IV or oxygen tubing - I can get you plenty of this if you want to try this) to cover the head of the T, cut the pin down to the height that you need and paint the whole thing black. Then you glue them to the outside of the stairway and run the "rope" through as with the other side, with a knot tied at each end of the "rope."

For the stairs, if you wanted to use foam, couldn't you use a sheet of foam the thickness that you want your steps to be wide, cut a square the size of the height of a room (you could make it a rectangle if need be), then cut out the stairs?

When you cut it apart, you should then have 2 sets of stairs. You could then paint them gray and "carve" stones in the side that will be facing the room. You could even cut out indentions in the steps for a "worn" look. Glue it to the wall of the tower and attach the handrails.

Rusty

Painting Clapboard Siding: Why not just get a quart or gallon of "real" house paint?. I bought regular latex white and mixed a gray color to exactly match the mat board I used for the clapboards (to paint the bottom cut edge that showed). Then I used the rest of the paint as needed inside. As a primer before doing anything else to the walls, used it to paint all the ceilings. By the time I finished, I had used most of the gallon!

Rita S Pierce

Cutting Shingles: I use a hand held pair of industrial shears, exactly like the hand held coupon clipper out there, to make the cut, but rarely is the angle correct! I used to use the Exacto and had to make 5-10 attempts without breaking the shingle! I always save discards for the fit it in and birdhouses. I use the discarded skinny pieces to the ridge layer to cover up all the underworkings.

Susan

Formica: You could make a very nice tile floor out of the little color samples of Formica. Cut in one inch squares and glue down. You could even mix colors if you have different colors. For the grout in between, you could use real tile grout. Put a thin layer over all, let it set for about 15 minutes, and wipe off the excess.

jeregrl

Stair Handrail Solution: One of the neatest things I've ever heard of for making a spiral staircase handrail was to use a length of upholstery piping (white twisted cotton). You coat it several times with a white glue like Tacky. As it starts to stiffen, you can form it in the shape that you need, and when it is dry, you can paint it to match your staircase. The final result looks like a carved stair rail.

Anita Myers

Roof Guttering and Drainpipes: You can cut one of those "fatter" drinking straws in half. Spray paint silver and glue to side of roof. The drain pipe can be a straw also (actually, you probably need to lengthen the straw by gluing several on top of each other).

Viola