Furniture and Appliances Page: 10 |
Clear Bathtub/Bathroom Set: Yeah the possibilities sure are endless...What about a red tub with naked ladies or men painted on the sides as if you are seeing the person through the tub? You could probably do it by putting a doll in the tub and draw on the outside with washable marker what you see and then reverse paint it from there...or if the tub is up against a wall and you can only see one side reduce one of those naked lady/men paintings, paint around it for the color of the tub and glue it in. Good for a gag in a number of scenes I can think of. Carolyn |
Log Cabin: Just as I was putting finishing touches on my kitchen yesterday, my bathroom finally arrived, yehaa!! My cabin officially has every single room filled with furniture. It is just a matter of the smaller details now, it is so very exciting:). The most involved piece that I have so far created was my kitchen range, oddly enough. It took about 3x the time of every other kitchen piece, but it was worth it:). I even put a "real" glass door into it -- this was achieved by making an oven door, cutting out where the glass would be, gluing that to the stove, painting the "window" hole black, and filling up the hole with crystal clear gallery glass!). I used sequins and pins to simulate burners, which at first I was convinced would look cheesy, but really worked out well. The dials were punched posterboard that are ringed with jump rings. I *think* I may have it completed now (who knew that a simple non-opening convection oven could have so much detail involved?) Definitely a thunderbolt moment. :) Kim From Canada |
Clear Plastic Bath Fixtures: We order from MBS regularly, so can get anything they carry. They also offer a standard (modern style-to be set into tile surround) a Victorian style, and modern toilet. You can get a sink only, or a pedestal sink. We also have the tiles. Earth & Tree Miniatures 1-877-801-8707 http://www.dollhouse-miniatures.com Tom & Kari |
MBS Clear Plastic Bath Fixtures: There sure has been a lot of interest in the clear plastic bathroom pieces from Model Builders Supply! That's great. It's a wonderful product and easy to use. I just use plain acrylic paint and you paint the pieces from the under side - not the top - so they look bright and shiny when you look at them. Just like a real ceramic product. No sealing is required. Two coats usually does the trick. Their address is: They sell retail and also have a wholesale price list for business's with the usual documentation required. Their prices are a lot less expensive than a comparable product that is available through the US. And remember - you are dealing with Canadian dollars! Major bonus for you in the States. They have a wide variety of other products but here are the stock numbers on the ones we've been yakking about. They also have prepackaged Bathroom sets: With all of these items, you need to specify whether you want clear or white. For tiles - they have different sizes. The size is the number of blocks per square inch. I don't know what their retail prices are in US dollars but guaranteed - you'll be pleased with both price and quality. Debi in Quesnel |
50s Living Room in quarter scale: Thanks to the rain today, I stayed put and made my quarter scale living room furniture, plants and wall hangings. I can see why folks like working in this scale. I added pics to the page...just scroll down to the living room pics. John Medeiros |
Medieval Furniture: I think that in medieval times furniture did not really amount to much more than planks and pallets unless you were very wealthy and even then it was still pretty basic. It was in Elizabethan and Jacobean times that furniture became stylish and decorative as well as fit for a purpose. I have some early Tudor/Jacobean style dining and bedroom furniture available on my web site if you'd like to take a look http://www.littlebylittle.co.uk Karon |
¼" Furniture: I carry the inexpensive sets of 1:48 scale furniture on my web site. Look under "SMALLER SCALES" then Plastic Furniture. I don't think there's a nursery available. I've never seen one, anyway. http://www.minikitz.com Debbie Jones |
Half Scale: Fantasy Craft has SW room boxes and 1/2" dollhouses. Check out my site http://JBsDollhousesMiniatures.com for 1/2" SW furniture kits. Click on miniatures. Jackie |
Wallpaper: Try this site: http://www.jlbminiatures.co.uk/ Susan from Gan |
Canopy Bed: I made a canopy bed for my girl's room. I just used a Styrofoam block for the mattress, glued mini posts that you can get from various mail ordered catalogs to each corner. The frame for the top is made of balsa wood that I cut with an X-Acto, the sides are kind of bell shaped and the top slats and front & back slats are straight pieces. A single piece of fabric was glued on top and lace was glued around the sides. I think it would be easy to modify for curtains. Michelle |
Realife Kits: I have made several of the Realife kits and found the easiest way of shaping the required curves is to wet the wood with some warm water until it is pliable, a plate will usually hold enough water to cover the piece. Then shape it and pin down to a wax paper covered work board to dry to shape. Jo |
Greenleaf Furniture Kits: Cherrytree has some of the 30 piece furniture kits,as well as others!! Jo |
Stainless Appliances: I once used a piece from the inside of a tube of toothpaste to simulate stainless steel on a section of a kitchen appliance. It had the right "look" and weight and was very flexible. I don't know whether you could get a large enough piece for the whole appliance without having a seam. Harriett- Framingham, MA |
50s Fridge: the information can be found in: May 1998 Dollhouse Miniatures; November 1990 Nutshell News; and August 1983 Nutshell News. Stacey Torres |
Altoids Fridge: altoid fridges, revisited. Altoid fridges: Okay, Currently I am armed with this bit of information -- you need 2 tins, a silver clip from a pen, spray paint and glue. I am sure with a little group concentration, we can puzzle this out for ourselves:). All I know from a few cryptic sentences and a picture in a magazine is that you glue two tins together, and get rid of one lid (not necessarily in that order). I emptied my mint boxes (but not before eating one for inspiration), and started playing around with the boxes until I achieved "fridge". From the picture it almost looks like the person only used one tin, but I can't really see the side. I think I may try the one tin thing, as I am going for 3/4 scale and my galley kitchen can't handle anything too wide. This may need a support of some sort on the bottom so it isn't "leaning" against a wall. I would suspect the next step would be to spray-paint the tins. The hardware guy who sold me the paint said to rough up the painted surface first with sandpaper. Last step would be to glue on the silver clip (or any piece of silver metal, I would wager, you might be able to find an appropriate jewelry finding). I believe the style of fridge we are going for is like a 1954 Norge, which has a solid door. I used to have a similar fridge in my first apartment,and I was taller than it was (it was about 5 feet in height, I believe. It had a little plastic freezer that was in the main compartment). What we need now is the glue that binds (metal to metal, that is). Kim From Canada |
Freezer Shelves: Have you thought of using plastic embroidery mesh? You can get it in different gauges and if it is not exactly the size you require for your shelves it is very easy to cut the pieces out from between the holes. You are then left with rods of plastic joined by the crossway bars. It also takes paint very well, so you could spray or paint it silver. Maureen in Hemel, UK |
Freezer Shelves: If I were making a refrigerator shelf, I would buy the thinnest K and S aluminum tubing (available in some mini shops and model places). It bends easily and glues well with super glue. Bend the square around a piece of wood the size you want your shelf, having the ends meet in the center of one side. Support the joint with a piece or wire glued inside. Cut the cross pieces long enough to overlap the square, and flatten the ends with a pliers. This tubing cuts quite easily just by rolling it under an X-Acto blade. Then glue them in place. Alice Zinn- Pt. St. Lucie FL |
Hutches: http://www.zing.com/album/pictures.html?id=4292796609 Here is the link again for whoever wants to see what I did to "bash" some of the inexpensive hutches from Michael's. For the person that asked about the copper punch, I bought the copper in a roll at our local craft store (Ben Franklin's) a few years ago. It is about a 36 gauge - I think the manufacturer was Ankara. I draw my basic design on a piece of paper, then lay the paper over the copper and punch small holes along the lines until the pattern has been copied. You can use a sewing needle in a pin vise to do this and get fine lines. Use a good heavy duty needle. The "saguaro ribs" in the doors are made from bamboo skewers, cut to length and split into two pieces so one side is flat. I used a router to put a groove around the edge of the back sides of the doors to have a place to fit the copper/ribs into. Bonnie Gibson |
Refrigerator Shelves: It occurred to me upon reading the various suggestions for Jonathan on making shelves for his refrigerator that it might be a modern fridge, in which case many (perhaps all) of them have shelves made of tempered glass. A piece of acrylic might replicate that very nicely. Janet in Baltimore |
House of Miniature kits: I stain everything before I assemble the pieces. I must have read that in some direction somewhere because I would not have known to do that myself. All of my pieces turned out very nice, much to my amazement, in some cases. Pat, Huntington, NY |
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