Interior Decorating

Page: 9

Faux marble floor: [ I want to marble a floor in a white color and possible have those little black diamonds in the middle... but may just do a white color alone. but anyway is there a technique i can use to create the look or better yet is there a place I can buy it already done and then cut it to size??]

You can make faux's of almost any natural substance from polymer clay and a grey/white marble would be one of the easier ones.

I think you'd need translucent clay, a touch of white, some black and some white pearl PearlEx powder to mimic the crystalline look in a slab of marble. The tools would be super simple for a floor - waxed paper, roller, tissue blade, grid paper, and automotive sandpaper in the fine grits – 400 to 1000.

You could make sheets, cut them after curing, sanding and buffing them, then lay them with white glue on a support such as paper or fabric.

Or you could make the floor all of a piece by laying out raw clay squares on paper, then rolling over them with an acrylic roller to meld the seams, then baking.

I think I'd recommend the latter, because the tiles will be difficult to make a perfectly even surface from, though you could mount the floor on a solid backing and use a power sander to grind off all the high spots in just a few seconds.

Elizabeth


Fabric Wallcovering: I know this works on life-scale so I would assume it works on mini-scale. If you cannot find a wallpaper you like or to match a fabric, just us the fabric as wallpaper! Dunk the fabric in some liquid starch, flatten onto walls just like paper! When you get tired of that look, Pull it down! No damage to your walls whatsoever! It will also stay put until you pull it off. I have tried this and it does work. I learned this from watching the beloved HGTV, Room by Room.

Jennifer Spray


Tiny stencils: I bought some lovely little stencils from the Craft Club and,   if you're not in the UK,   you can purchase 'on-line'   at   http://www.craft-club.com    as they're so tiny I imagine the postage wouldn't be too prohibitive either.

Jacqui from Hampshire UK


Miniature Blinds: I have some vinyl vertical blinds which I purchased about a year ago from a company named The Blind Company.  The address on the instruction sheet is:

PO Box 42
Peshtigo WI 54157
Phone: 715-789-2511
Fax: 715-789-2558

Louise in MI


Miniature stencils: at my local art store they have stencils for fingernail designs. I bought a couple of them - flowers, etc. to stencil a blanket box and they are the perfect scale.

Vi in Hamilton


Miniature stencils: Try the sugar craft / cake decorating supply shops for stencils in very small scale

Sharon in S. Africa


Miniature stencils: Many of the glass etching stencils are very small and also flexible. I have seen many with tiny leaves and flowers or other designs! I have also seen several of the tiny "laser-cut stencils" (the sheets  are only about 4 or 5 inches square but with quite a few items and patterns in them) in the   scrapbooking section complete with tiny beach scenes, music notes, fleur-de-lis, floral patterns,  checkerboard patterns, etc. just the perfect size for minis.

Chrissy


Popsicle stick floors: I made a floor for my very first project out of popsicle sticks. I used Elmer's wood glue and stuck them right to the floor of the project. It never occurred to me that I might want to redecorate someday. That floor has been serving my little family well for over 22 years, now.

Pat, Huntington, NY


Popsicle stick floors: I'd stick the popsicle sticks down on the cardboard (or whatever) base with Quickgrab, as it will hold tight and not warp.Then I'd use double faced carpet tape to attach the whole thing to the dollhouse floor. If you need to lift the floor for some reason this allows you to do it (i.e. to put wiring underneath, etc

Sue Veeder


Miniature Rugs: We have over 300 hundred designs of miniature rugs in 4 different sizes. May be you can find something which may work for your project. Please check us at http://www.anatolian-treasures.com

Korhan Kartin


Color and other things: After reading Kathleen Peake's excellent tips on color matching and lighting, my memory was jogged about a number of questions I've been asked concerning the various aspect of my miniatures. Soooo....If you'll bear with me I would like to " Wax the Elephant " just a bit about some philosophical and practical thoughts on minis.

First off, as an addendum to Kathleen's tips on color I would like to add a color tip that I use which is to scale the color down, that is, to reduce the intensity of the color. When we scale our houses down and then use regular colors they can be too intense. One way of reducing the intensity is to tint it with a little white or neutral grey. Since we see real houses in sections, unless we're some distance away, brighter colors are less noticeable, whereas we see minis as a whole so a bright color will stand out like a sore thumb. In fact, in an effort to unify the whole ,I use a little neutral gray in every color. That way, there are no jarring colors that reach out and slap us. I have a standing rule; Never use a pure primary color, ever!

My structures have been described by some as being very detailed. My response is, the analogy of the Photo Realist painter and Impressionist Painter. The Photo Realist puts in every detail and the Impressionist makes you think he does, when in reality a lot of detail is implied and not actually there. I'm an impressionist. That said, I don't mean to imply that you can be sloppy with your work. One should always try to do better on each project.

Lastly, every structure should be structurally sound. In other words, if it were a full-sized house, it wouldn't fall down. I realize not everyone is an architect or structural engineer, but we can look at real houses both in photos and real life and pay attention to sizes and thicknesses of various features. A common problem is an 1/8" thick floor spanning a scale 20 feet without floor joists or supporting posts. This couldn't happen in real life; 1/8" in one inch scale is 1 1/2" in real life the floor would collapse. Things like this can make a beautifully built house look wrong.

This has gone on long enough so I'll save the reason I landscape every house and create a history for each one for another time.

Rik Pierce


Ceilings. I use watercolor paper on my ceilings. It is already white and has a very slight texture and is paintable. Hope this helps.

Barbara


Printable Mini Art: I have just added some printable mini pictures that can be framed or whatever. I printed them out on white linen resume paper and it gave them a nice texture. Also put a matte around them that can be cut off if the size needs to be smaller. http://www.hughes.net/~frog/print_project3.html

Sclarise


Wallpaper: the best type of wallpaper paste to use is "Yes" Glue. It is now called Grandma Stover's and is the only one I sell. It does not warp your walls, especially when you apply it to foam core. I recommend thinning it just a tad so it is the consistency of thick creamy soup. Goes farther that way, also. When you wallpaper, cut a template first that is exactly the size you want. Then cut your wallpaper using your template as a guide. Going around the corners in the back of the room, run a very small margin of wallpaper around from the side wall to the back. Paper both sides and then paper the back. I apply paste to the wall as it seems easier to work with paper that is not 'gooey'. Smooth out the paper with an old credit card, at the same time squishing out the extra glue. Do not cut the window/door openings out of the paper until after you have applied the paper and it is dry. Then with a sharp X-Acto blade in your knife, gently cut out the openings. When you buy wallpaper, the rule of thumb is 3 sheets per room. Also, consider the pattern and match in the corners.

Betty Dann


Wallpapering: One of the best classes I have ever taken was a 'beginners' class with Brooke Tucker. I never have enjoyed a class so much or learned so much. It is from Brooke that I learned about "Yes" glue, which is still called YES glue. And is available at good Art Supply shops. I get mine in Seattle , Washington, at the Seattle Art Supplies Ltd. (BY the way I learned this about possibly 20 years ago now.) If you wish to remove the paper so some reason after it has dried- if you used YES you can dampen it gently and the glue will soften up and the paper can be removed. This glue also allows you to re-position your paper. I believe it is primarily used by and for professional artists to mount paper works. But someone on this digest will know a lot more than me about it. Another of the many things Brooke taught us when decorating is her NOSY NEIGHBOR THEORY. She says we all have at least one who will crawl into your rooms with a Dentist mirror and look at all those 'hidden' bits you thought you didn't have to do because they cannot be seen, and say OH!! you missed a bit here DEAR !! And she was so right. So paint, finish, paper, wrap everything.

Paddy


Wallpaper: I just started a new job a Ben Franklin Crafts working in the custom framing department. I was sitting there helping a customer pick out mat board for her picture when all of a sudden realized that we have mat board with patterns on it! This one was a white an off-white tiny stripe pattern but as i went through all our samples i realized we have lots of different patterns! And solid colors in about every shade you could need, We also have linen mat board and suede like pieces too. I thought that since I've read that so many people glue their wallpaper to card stock then put it in the house that this would do the same this with no gluing. This works out great for me since I'm a full time student and only work part time. I get as many scraps I want for free but we sell an entire sheet (30" by 40") for 5 dollars. I thought I'd share this with you guys. I know we have like 200 different types. Hope this helps someone!

Shannon in VA


Seed Beads: They make great flower centers, bottle tops, candy for jars in a pinch (I don't like the holes, but most folks don't notice them), necklaces, wheels on toy cars. Beaded curtains, eyes and noses on stuffed animals, for making in-scale Indian corn. They are great for the wood beads that use to be strung on baby cribs and playpens, and strung together for wooden bead baby toys. In 1/4 scale they are good lamp parts, tea cups (add beading wire handle), and lots of stuff.

Bev


Metal Miniatures: There was a couple at the Cincinnati show that sold metal miniatures with the majority of the items being priced under $1.00. He had so many that I think you could have stood there for a couple of hours and not really noticed everything he had. I had to laugh when he handed me a box lid and asked if I would like a shopping cart. He does shows and mail orders so I would expect he would have a catalog if you inquired. The address is: Parker Miniatures 3231 E. Linda Lane, Port Clinton, Ohio 43452.

Elizabeth Cooper


Mask roombox idea: Since masks and Mardi Gras go hand-in-hand, you might want to consider the festive appearance of the exotic feathered masks, with beads and the traditional gold-green-purple colors found at Mardi Gras. Colorful ribbons flowing from the masks are a possibility. If your daughter-in-law collects African masks, you'd probably want to switch gears and go with earthy colors and animal prints for wallpaper.

Leslie Ann, Fresno, CA


AUTHENTIC STUFFED MATTRESSES: Instead of using real straw, I would opt for shredded paper twist or something similar. I think that the straw may disintegrate and perhaps draw bugs too. For the mini friend that asked about the old crepe paper, could the paper twist that you can get at craft stores work for your needs also?

Fran


This category has 380 tips of 10312 tips in the archives.

Previous 20 | Next 20


Page 9 of 20.



Search for:


Browse the database (all entries)