Topiary leaves: I saw a post mentioning parsley leaves for finishing topiaries. I have done that and would like to comment on my experience. The parsley leaves turned white-ish over time. I would recommend painting them.I am frequently tempted to use natural stuff, but I am more comfortable, if it's something I want to be sure is around a LONG time, if I only use the natural article as a base. Flower stems or small branches can be painted with white glue/paint mixtures to make trees with a bark-like look. Greenery is spray painted and sprayed again with small bursts or brushed with varying shades for realism and depth. (Use darker colors at the bottom/inside.) Dried weed heads are daubed with layers of paint in flower colors. It 'seals' up the parts that bugs might like, gives the brittle dry parts strength and some flexibility, and the colors won't fade over time. And it does not give off that strong smell some preservatives do when you buy at the craft/florist shops.

Janine

Ocean: Had we met earlier, we would have discussed using a different base for your set. Alas, and alack - what's done is done so let's use it! I suggest sealing the area of your foamcore, designated to be your ocean with one of the following: Durham's Putty (local hardware store), Hydrostone or Hydrocal (hobby shop). Less is more in this instance, you want as thin a coat as possible. You don't want to add weight, just seal.

I usually add some fine sand to a set at this point. One of my favorite tricks is to squiggle thin streams of white glue in rows (the way sand shifts in the tide) then cover it with white sand, add a starfish and tiny shells near the shore, etc.

I would use acrylic paint diluted with water (a wash) to lay several rows of color simulating the movement of the water with the waves. The wash is translucent and will allow the color beneath it to show through. Just random wavy lines of color following the roll of the water as it approaches the shore. This creates the illusion of incredible depth in your sea. Take your time and have fun.

If you reallllllllly want to get into your water, pour your resin in a very thin coat. When it sets, add a few more tiny lines of acrylic wash to a few areas. Pour another coat of thin resin. Repeat as often as you desire.

Becky

Painting Natural Materials: I agree with the advice to paint or seal natural materials. I purchased sheet moss from the craft store to cover the roof of Mossy Manor, and, later on, my hollow log house http://gerdesdesign.com/my_dollhouses.htm. This had been harvested and treated, and was bug-free. But over time it will lose its green and turn brown. After sealing it with hairspray, I painted it with "Basil" green florist spray paint -- the kind craft stores like Michaels carry -- it is much finer than regular spray paint. I felt the "Moss" color wasn't quite right and the Basil looked more natural. I didn't saturate it -- I left some natural showing so it would brown a little here and there (underneath, not in patches on the surface).

Now, several years later, it looks great and very natural.

Anne Gerdes

Pampas Grass: To whomever was looking for Pampas grass, I just received my Cabela's catalog (free from http://www.cabelas.com and on page 63 in the top left hand corner are some great, very fine feathers (Metz Necks and saddles) that I think would make nice flower heads for your pampas. They even have white which could be used as is, or dyed. This catalog has a lot of strange and interesting things used for making fishing flies, but there seems to be a lot with miniature applications.

Susan from St. Croix

Waterfalls: Make your second pond just like your first one. Make sure your water path for the water fall is painted, then use some clear tape as a guide for the waterfall. 50 year Clear Silicone makes good falling water, it can also be highlighted with white paint after it dries. Just apply it directly over the clear tape. If all else fails, go to your local bookstore and sneak a look at a model railroad how-to book. I have made several waterfalls this way and they all turned out well. You can go to either my web site or photopoint and look at Akademia- A wizards' college for examples of finished waterfalls.

http://purefantasy.centramedia.com

Shaun Crawford

Waterfall, Creek and Landscaping: Someone posted a question about landscaping and waterfalls/creeks and how to do them. I did a similar type treatment to the landscaping on my log cabin and used foam for the basic shapes but then used a model railroader trick of crumpling newspaper and hydrocal cement (or plaster Paris) to firm up the shape I wanted. The waterfall started with the one that Nivica sells but I built up the rock formation around it and made the suggestion of a creek with foam. Then I sealed the foam and painted the bed of the creek. I then filled the creek bed with real dirt from the creek bed from Colorado, as well as with tiny rocks and pebbles I'd picked up from vacation. I filled any gaps with natural colored aquarium rocks and then poured Envirotex to simulate the creek. I was terrified to do a water treatment like this one, but it turned out to be really easy and fun to do.

Kathy in TX

Rocks: The best way I have found to make rocks is a mixture of plaster, water and glue. Mix together (not too much at a time as it sets quickly). Place a spoonful onto a plastic surface. You now have a rock. Paint when dry. I tried mixing the paint into the mixture but it didn't look as realistic. I used these for a pond I made- they look great.

Karen from Dubai

Witch's cottage: I just finished "Witch Hazel's",a wonderful establishment built in Froggy Bottom Swamp. I used sheet Styrofoam for the base. It can be carved, sanded, and coated with spackle or plaster. I use plain old Elmer's glue and toothpicks to hold my basic rock designs together until the glue dries. Test other glues before you use them, many glues will eat the Styrofoam. Then the rocks are basecoated with either plaster or spackle. I like wattle and daub myself, but did my structure in a stucco style. The swamp water was made with 50 Year Clear Silicone, although I usually use Envirotek . A word of caution using Styrofoam. If you are using an electric Styrofoam cutter, the fumes emitted are poisonous. The same would go for using a heat gun. I use both tools, but always make sure I have plenty of ventilation. Most people who know me don't think I do though ;-)- "Brain damage already".

Shaun

Witches Cottage: For sedimentary, layered rock formations, why not bust up and use some old acoustic ceiling tiles? They break up easily with edges presenting rugged, natural shapes and glue easily to build up as high as you want, having mostly vertical or receding layers but also some points of overhang. Spray with varying yellow and brown rock tones of Rit dye in the spray bottles normally used for glass cleaner and such. Seal with clear varnish and sprinkle with Woodland Scenics Dark Green Ground Foam for patches of moss. Add very minimal bits of lighter green on some edges as new growth. If you put trees or shrubs on top, don't forget to have a few gnarly roots exposed in the rocks by erosion. Just the tiniest glint of gold sparkle deep in one crevice may give a few viewers a small, individual discovery.

Mel Koplin, Las Vegas NV

Ceiling tiles: I used to do trains, and ceiling tiles are great- you can get a super effect of rock striations by stacking the tiles unevenly and then use a wire brush on the edges. But wear a paint mask! The dust from those things can kill ya.

Linda in NC

Water- Polyseamseal is a self-leveling CLEAR 50 Yr Caulk. It makes wonderful waterfalls, streams etc. I use this in all my classes and it is fool proof. No mixing, and non toxic fumes, very little odor. If you cannot find it locally, I have it on my website. http://ladybug-fairies.com

LadyBug, Sue Thwaite

Underwater Look: It sounds like you are trying to create the surface of the water from underneath...sounds like an interesting problem. Two ways I thought of were:
1. Paint the underside of the top to look like water seen from below (see any underwater movie to get an idea of this -"Splash" comes to mind) or
2. Replace the top of the box with Plexiglas and then do something with one of the silicone mixtures that were suggested for water (I can't remember exactly what he used but I think it was Dr. Bob and he used alcohol to slow the drying time and create turbulence in the water.) This would give you the effect of looking up from the bottom through the surface of the water. I think silver on the cover would increase the light but not give you the effect I think you are looking for.

Ana Gerard

Ponds: I have been making pools and ponds under glass domes for a while now, and the people that have them say they prefer the ones I do with a sandy bottom and clear water. They can see the tiny rocks on the bottom and the fish and even the roots of the lilies or whatever plants I put in. I put a very thin coat of glue around the bottom half of the wall and part of the bottom and sprinkle on the green railroad "grass" and then shake off the excess. That gives the look of algae around the bottom. I use natural little stones laying around haphazardly and sometimes piled together and put the fish in and among them for more realism.

If you have no source for the grass, you can just paint the bottom of the wall and edges of the bottom with a wash of green acrylic.

I use preserved plants a lot, take the smallest leaves, etc. I sometimes use purple strawflowers(dyed ones) for the lilies and I float a dead piece of leaf on the surface sometimes.

For water I use Envirotex Lite, which is a two part resin polymer coating. I buy it at any craft shop and even hardware stores. If you can't find that brand, just look for the poly coatings that say "1 layer equals 50 coats of varnish". I pour it in layers, adding little things in each layer so you can see the depth of the water. Make sure you cover it with a box or something till it cures to keep dust off.

For anyone interested, for the basic pool, I buy a round white foam circle about 8" across and 1" deep. I cut a rough shape out of the center(the pool) and leave a border around the edge for landscaping. I glue this donut shape to a sheet of foil. I run a line of thick tacky glue around the inside bottom edge, gluing the hole to the foil. I also run a line of it around the outside bottom edge. This seals the hole for the resin later. I then use my fingers and smash the top edges of the ring to slope them. I use the part I cut out of the center by breaking it up and piling "boulders" up on part of the ring. When this is all done I spray the whole thing with waterbased "granite" spray paint. When people pick up the finished pool, they are amazed that it isn't heavy.

I add real stones or pieces of wood etc. to finish the top and then landscape with plants and flowers. I usually put on at least a banana tree, weeping willow, or plumeria tree for shade over the pool. Each one is different and each one is unique. They are a joy to make and a pleasure to show.

Norieta

Polymer Compound Resin - a 2-bottle kit - one is your resin, the other your catalyst. These must be mixed one part to one part, VERY ACCURATELY AND STIRRED THOROUGHLY.

I was told that you should have two separate containers for measuring. Fill one container with one compound... and a second container with the second compound... then pour them both into a third container, and stir thoroughly. That makes a much more accurate measurement. Little containers with "measuring lines" especially for resin can be purchased at most hobby shops.

Viola

Expanding foam: If you want to use expanding foam for rocks and such... there are 3 levels of expansion available. You probably should use the least expanding one. The one I read about at the end of Digest# 102 would have been the greatest expanding one. We have used it for many purposes (none in mini yet).

Ann in AZ

Insulating spray foam: Several people have mentioned using the insulating spray foam for rocks and other landscaping. Please bear in mind that the stuff expands beyond all expectations when it comes out of the can. Think hair mousse. A little dab'll do ya, and all that. My DH and I used it to seal cracks in the stucco on our front porch, and after we squirted it into the holes, it expanded right back out, and we had a bunch of rude little tongues sticking out at us, all over the place.

Insulating spray foam: Yes, you do have to be careful with the stuff but you can cut it and trim it when it dries if it expands more than you planned.

Roz

Insulating spray foam: Rocks: I have used the foam insulation product that DAP puts out to seal cracks, gaps and openings in your home. It is easy to use and is paintable. I spread aluminum foil on my table and sprayed out very small amounts of the foam (it expands ) on the foil and let dry. You can build on a piece by spraying irregular areas of foam on the small pieces you made the day before. You can also sand, cut, beat with a mallet or use whatever you think of to reshape once it is set up. It is flammable so do not try to use heat on it. This method has worked for my son on train scenes that he has built in the past. I have also used it to make boulders for fairies to sit on.

Dottie (Florida)

Waterfalls: I have found that for big waterfalls, clear postage tape works great, it's either 1-1/2" or 2" across. Saran wrap is another alternative.

Shaun C

Pond: Just had to write and tell you that, after thinking for a while about making a pond, I finally took the plunge!( no pun intended). I bought a box of Sculpey and went to work. I ended up with a pond 8-1/2 X 7 inches. I carved small rocks the whole way around the pond, with one large rock on one side that extends into the water.

I then started painting. I bought a jar of Sandstone at Michael's in tweed color that I used for the rocks. I painted the cracks in-between with a dark brown. I then added a glaze over that. I painted the bottom of the pond "blue lagoon".

I made a gold fish, lily pads, lily, and cattails out of Cernit as well as leaves out of florists tape.

Kathy, Rural PA

Snow:  I made the dollhouse I bought from Joann's Fabrics into a Santa House. It not only has snow on the roof but has a snow covered base. I used Bondex Premixed Lightweight Spackling and then dusted it lightly with glitter. I also used "real" size spray snow and stood a distance away and lightly sprayed the house and scene. I think it took some of the starkness of the red away too.

Juanita in Missouri