Failing Lights: One of the first mistakes I made wiring was in my large farmhouse. It turned out that I had to many lights (bulbs) for my transformer to handle. I read the directions . I thought very carefully, but misunderstood the difference between fixtures and actual bulbs. If you are using a transformer that calls for 50 lights, that does not mean fifty fixtures. Most transformers come with built in fuses, and an overload will cause the lights to fail. They may initially light, but then fade and go off after about five to ten minutes, and they won't come back on. and if you have fifty bulbs, the transformer still may not necessarily keep up with the load. This is only one other reason why you may be experiencing problems with lights not responding. Tom Berkner gave a very good explanation in regards to installation problems. using a probe will tell you whether to not you have a good connection. If you think your transformer might be deficient, you should then consider dividing your system into more than one transformer.

Carol Wagner

Chandeliers: I make crystal chandeliers. I can make chain and electric wires as long as needed. To see my web site, go to SS digest's web page and click on links. Then under Accessories, click on Marvelites. If you send me a snail mail address, I will be glad to send you a brochure.

Joanne at the Jersey Shore

Installing Outlets: First, soldering the connections is no doubt the best way, but also the most difficult and time consuming (and you need a soldering iron). For outlets (receptacles) we use the large eyelets, inserted with the second of my tools. These fit the large plugs that come on the inexpensive lights. This doesn't work well on the die cut (Greenleaf et. al.) because the eyelets are too long and go all the way through the wall. The hammer in outlets from Miniature House are short enough to work. Because of the tapered nails, you may have the problem I discussed before. Cir-Kit makes an outlet with nails also (but it requires that you buy their plugs). Again, these have the tapered nails on the back. If you like to solder, you can solder a short length of wire onto the tape wire, and solder the other end on to the nail on the back of the outlet, before you hammer it into the wall. That should continue to work even if the outlet falls off the wall.

Tom Berkner

Foamcore & electrical wiring: I have wired two very large houses and innumerable shadow box's and vignettes made of foamcore. I have yet to have any problem. Considering the first one was built in the early 70's, I think you will understand my lack of concern. In this first house, I used a technique popular at the time, and ran the cords through the walls by making channels with a coat hanger. That house still lights, so relax, enjoy!

Becky

Ventilation: It was wisely suggested to me that when you electrify a house or room box, make sure the heat has a way of escaping. So in my DH, each window is open about a half inch to allow air circulation. Sure would not want a fire, since I have no firehouse - yet!

Barb in PA

Light up your life (or your dome) >I could run the tape wire on the bottom but where would I put the splicer?

Forget the junction splice. Get the lead-in wire that has bifurcated lugs (horse shoe shaped thingies - that’s the techie name) on both ends. Use a couple of wood screws underneath to fasten the lugs to the tapewire. You may need to put some short legs underneath to raise the base just a little (many hardware/lumber places sell "screw plugs" which are about 1/4" high).

Tom Berkner

Lighting a Glass Dome: You could decide where you want the light, for sure, and then drill a hole into the base, cut a groove into the underside of the base and run the wire into the groove and out the back. Of course this will only work with hard wire, not tapewire.

Roz Weitzman in Toronto

Fiber Optic Lighting: Dolls House World Magazine, issue 98 November 2000, pages 15-15. Jane Laverick talks about using a fiber optic torch used for flower arranging to wire a 1:24 scale kit.

The article is a multi-part, there's more next month, and not a lot of detail on the lighting so far. Jane mentions the issue of the fibers not bending round right angles but doesn't say how she gets round the problem at the corners of rooms or when going through fittings. I eagerly await my next issue....

Sandra in New Zealand

Transformer: As far as I know you have to operate your transformer at almost top capacity or you not only burn it out but risk your lights too. Check with Cir-Kit. They have a resistor (I think that's what you call it) that reduces the outlay until you have enough bulbs to match the transformer - this is used usually during construction of the lighting but could possibly be used in this instance. I think the best bet would be to get the correct size for the # of lights you have in your house, but I'm sure Cirkit would be able to be of help - they are extremely nice people.

Ana Gerard

Regluing Tape: I use Quick Grab to reglue the tape. We never bother to prime our houses.  If the house is made of very porous wood, a "spit coat" of diluted shellac (add 3 to 5 parts alcohol - denatured, not good scotch) will seal it nicely.

Tom

Lights for art and craft gallery: Cir-kit or somebody makes a cannister style light - the kind you see in "real" places - just a round tube that is installed in the ceiling (so nothing hangs down) and a light bulb goes up in the tube. I don't think they're directional though, like the real ones are. But that might be one option. And then there are the mini-floodlights that *are* directional - they're quite bright but might suit your purposes. I want to do a gallery type setting myself for my pottery collection and have been pondering the shelving/lighting, etc., questions for a while now. I think somewhere (don't you love how definite I am about everything?) I saw a tip or hint or something on making the type of hanger you're talking about for the glass shelves. Might have been in one of the Workshop Wisdom columns in an old Nutshell News. Anyway, that would work very well if you could get each piece exactly the same (which I couldn't). I bought some microscope slides from American Science and Surplus thinking I'd use them for shelves or whatever, and when I got them I discovered that the end of each one is frosted for about 1/2" or so. I think probably for my gallery I'm going to try some sort of "built-in" arrangement of shelves. I bought some bookcases to use but decided I didn't like them.

Mary Lynne in Huntington, WV

Troubleshooting Wiring: I have just added a new section to my web site under the category of Tom's Tips. This section helps explain how to troubleshoot your dollhouse wiring. I hope it will be of some help to you.http://www.dollhouse-miniatures.com

Tom Berkner

Tape Wiring: You MUST remove any brads that you installed incorrectly. It will cause a short and your electricity will NOT work. There is a very good booklet entitled DOLLHOUSE LIGHTING Electrification in Miniature by Barbara Warner (Boyton and Associates, Inc. Publisher) on how to electrify dollhouses and room boxes. I suggest that you purchase this booklet. She explains, in detail, the how and why of tape wire and hard wire. Also, why you have "shorts," which is basically when the electric flow is stopped. I knew nothing about electricity or electric wiring, used her instructions, and haven't had one problem. My first project, a three story dollhouse, has been tape wired since 1991 and all the lights still work. Most miniature shops carry this publication and I have even seen it in A.C. Moore, a popular craft store in our area, - Bensalem, Bucks County, Pennsylvania.

Caroline K. Bradley

Electrical: Masonite is a brand name for Tempered Hardboard (kind of like a high density fiberboard). It holds up pretty well. It is near impossible to wire (can't get brads or eyelets into it worth a darn - it's too hard). But not if you use eyelets and the Connector Tool available at Earth and Tree from Tom Berkner http://dollhouse-miniatures.com  or contact Tom tom@dollhouse-miniatures.com We even experimented on arborite and it goes on just slick. What a timesaver, and makes the job so easy. No, I don't have anything to do with this company other than I am a very satisfied customer and just love the excellent service.

Jonesy

Wiring: I always cover my wire tape with masking tape to protect it from the wallpaper paste. Haven't had any problems so far.

Colette in Dubai, U.A.E.

Installing Brads: I discovered a great way to put in those little brads. I poked the hole in the tape where I wanted the brad to go with the tool they give you. Then I picked up the brad with a pair of tweezers and placed the head of the brad on a piece of masking tape, kinda molding the tape around my finger. I pressed the brad into the hole, then very carefully removed the tape. The brad will stay in place till you hammer it in.

Donna

Unlit Chandelier: You can find extra large triple fish hooks in the sporting goods section at Wal-Mart, KMart, Target, etc. Use one for the armature. Use safety goggles and cut the barbs off, then choose whatever beads you want and glue on the ends. Use big round ones for a Victorian gas lamp look or use flatter, metallic beads, gluing grommets on top for a more wizardly look. When dry you can use tacky wax or more glue and insert real candles or painted toothpicks into the grommet "candleholders." Then join the chandelier to a plain shank button with a jump ring, and glue the button to the ceiling. For a more formal look, use crystal beads and drape strands of old necklace between the hook arms for a crystal chandelier. You can also wire teardrop-shaped beads as pendants under the "lights." I use these all the time when I rehab houses for charity. They are a classic of dollhouse DIY.

Loretta Sniarowski

WORKING CEILING FANS: Appliance timer motors are reasonably small, geared motors that advance the cycle switches on your washer and dryer. The ones in washing machines have a nice speed of between 4 and 6 revolutions per minute. Used to drive a four blade ceiling fan, this passes one paddle over any given point about 16 to 24 times per minute. It works out as a nice lazy speed to offer a ceiling fan in a store, tea room, or kitchen. There are three solvable problems. While "reasonably" small, they are not miniature. Also, they run on 110 volts so you will need a separate electrical circuit unless you have reflective lighting in your dollhouse.

As for the size, mount it on the floor above the ceiling where your fan will be. This will require preplanning for decoration if that space is to be a decorated room. I have hidden these motors with bottomless trunks, a bed, and a raised false floor. The shaft is usually a small pin. A shaft of KS brass tubing used to build your fan can be slipped on from below and secured with a drop of super glue for final assembly. Build the fan with findings, wood, and that piece of brass tubing. Sorry, I have never worked out a way to have lights stay in place below the fan blades.

The third problem is that these little gems are expensive when new. The solution to this is to take your tools with you the next time you go dumpster diving. Do test the little bugger when you get it home because this easily replaced motor is frequently the reason some washers end up at the dump.

Mel Koplin in Las Vegas

Battery lights: Cherry Tree has battery lights for dollhouses - a 10 or 20 light set! http://www.cherrytree-online.com

jo

Wiring: You can put the lamps in one of 2 ways:

1. Put outlets in the tapewire and plugs on the lamps. Use the small outlets and plugs. I use this method for lamps as it gives me flexibility to move the lamps around.

2. If you use eyelets, make a hole for the eyelet, wrap the lamp wire around the eyelet, and push the eyelet in the wall. Make sure the eyelet fits tightly. I use this method for chandeliers. I run the chandelier wire through the ceiling to the floor above and install the wires in tape that I have on the floor.

I've done lighting both ways and have not had a problem If your tape wire is under wallpaper, you need to have a tester to find the location of the wire. A tester has 2 prongs and a light bulb inside. When the tester lights up, that shows where the 2 edges of the tapewire are located.

Carol