Miscellaneous Page: 11 |
Paper bag finish: I saw the question about using a paper bag to get a finish. Yes, it works. After using the final and finest grit of sandpaper; if you wish to get a glass smooth finish, use some paper bag material (Kraft paper; that brown stuff) as your sanding paper and do the same as with sand paper. It will impart a glass like finish for smoothness to your project. DrBob...Delray Beach, FL. |
Sanding or smoothing very fine details: If you are doing miniature carving work, and have areas that are rough and really do need additional smoothing, about the best thing you can use is some 400-600 sandpaper glued to a toothpick. (Wrap it so it is as small as possible so it just covers the toothpick). Even this fine a 'grit' will do immense harm to really small carving work - so you had better proceed cautiously! Sometimes, the best thing to do in these really tiny areas is just to 'polish' the top as I have talked about doing in my 'basics'. You can also get very small micro needle files from X-Acto hobby/plane/train shops) or order from MicroMark http://www.micromark.com The tips of these files are about the size of a large needle -- but, once again, they will remove TOO MUCH if you are not careful with them! Linda Gale, Artisan, I.G.M.A. |
Getting rid of brush strokes: If you are plagued with brush strokes, you need to thin the paint you're using -- but don't use water to thin the paint, even if it is acrylic. Using water will raise the grain of the wood you're working on and cause a "whole 'nother problem"! You can get special mediums for thinning acrylics - - check labels and ask questions. These are not the 'gel' mediums that will thin the color and make it more transparent. You may need to experiment with different types/brands of medium/extender that will give you the effect you want. You must also use a relatively expensive flat brush with very soft bristles. (Clean it immediately after each use and it will last for years with proper treatment.)You can also use your fingertips to 'brush' - but don't pat -- or you will have....... fingerprints! ;D For a really fine 'brush stroke free' finish, you'll need to build up coat after coat of color - using a thinned paint color - allowing each coat to dry very thoroughly (overnight), gently sanding or 'polishing', applying another very thin coat of paint, etc. You can plan on putting on at least 3 coats of thinned paint, in this manner. Although time consuming, a LOT of thin coats work much better than a few thick coats - not only because they don't show brush strokes, but because, as you apply each coat, sand or polish, and apply another coat, you are slowly filling in the grain of the wood and making it less noticeable.....one of the primary 'give aways' in close up photography of miniatures that are, otherwise, almost 'the real thing'. (If using stain, instead of paint, the multiple 'finish coats' do the 'filling of the grain', while still showing it. You just don't get the microscopic 'dented' effect that grain has when very closely examined.) This is the same technique as the Japanese/Chinese methods of applying lacquer finishes - though they use high gloss lacquers instead of the satin-finish paints miniaturists use. A lacquer finish requires 30-40 coats of very thin lacquer, drying, sanding, lacquering, etc---to get a really mirror finish that is as smooth as glass. Remember that each sanding/polishing step MUST be followed by use of a tack cloth to remove all the dust, before applying another coat of paint or stain. If you don't remove every tiny micro particle of dust, it will be magnified with each additional coat you apply over it! Finally -- if you want to get really 'obsessive' about what your finish looks like: Shine a bright light on it so the light flows over the surface, from the side. It will show up even the tiniest ripple in your finish coat. (Remedy: Sand with 400-600, and apply another finish coat - or two.) Remember that a final thin coat of CLEAR paste-type floor wax (the type that won't yellow), carefully applied with a Q-tip and then buffed well, gives a wonderful 'mellow' look to your piece....but even this won't cure problems that started with a bad first coat of paint or stain! Now that you know how very time-consuming achieving a really good finish can be. Is it no wonder that artisans charge so much for their work? Probably 75% of the labor involved is not in the actual construction of a piece of miniature furniture - but in the finish applied. It might take only a day to cut out the pieces of a small table and assemble it, but weeks to apply a proper finish! I hope this answers all the questions that I left out of my basic 'how to' that Mel mentioned. If you are interested in these 'basics' that I always include with my bed or furniture classes, please let me know and I'll be glad to post it. Linda Gale, Artisan, I.G.M.A. |
Citrus texture: You probably already know this one but.....To create the right texture on the orange skin, roll the fimo ball over a used toothbrush. Leaves an indented look just like an orange. Ditto for lemons." A bird perch scraper works very well also. Sue in CT. |
Cakes: We were making cakes at our mini club on the central coast NSW in OZ and after the meeting of course I'm sure we all did some more at home , well I woke at 3.am with this idea to decorate a smooth cake we had 'iced' to stamp it with a small stamp we can get a 2.00 shop, usually children's play stamps, just the right size and looks good. Not earth shattering but good if you are not an artist. Judith |
Gluing Jig: The gluing jig was from Designs by Dann (Betty and Steve). The address is 6408 Sunset Terrace, Quinn |
London shop: To the best of my knowledge, the dollhouse shop in Covent Garden in London is still in business. It's tucked away in a corner on the lower level (down one level from the street). Pertinent info follows: London Dolls House Company Bev Gallerani, IGMA Fellow |
UK Shops: The London Dolls House Company is the shop in Covent Garden, London. The address is 29 Covent Garden Market, London WC2 8RE They have a website - http://www.londondollshouse.co.uk Maple Street is a dolls house shop in Wendy, Royston, Herts and also has a website - http://www.maplestreet.co.uk Caroline Nevill Miniatures is still in Bath, at 22a Broad Street. The website is http://www.carolinenevillminiatures.com Annie |
Baseball caps: this lady makes them and she will add lettering if desired. http://community.webshots.com/user/minilorrie Marian |
Firefighter hats: Island Crafts makes inexpensive one inch scale firefighter hats. I have one at http://www.tinyheirlooms.com under Accessories, Misc. Tammy in Virginia |
Dolls: Sylvia Brinkley's address. Sylvia is a fine miniature doll artist and I plan to feature some of her dolls in the Sept-Oct issue of my "Dainty Doll Newsletter". Here are her addresses: email: brinkley.sylvia@worldnet.att.net Sylvia Brinkley Paulette Stinson |
Ruetter roomboxes: I found that my Rueter roombox was one of many different kinds of rooms and scenes produced by Ruetter. Carol from spminiatures has a page full of different ones available on her website at http://www.spminiatures.com/reutter/reutter.html Really neat if you want to display minis but have limited space, ideal for enjoying minis at work, which is where my wee kitchen is now proudly displayed. My kitchen was number 17 ....and as one is NEVER enough I am already planning which roombox I want next:) Kim from Oz |
Sarah in Paris told us about two sources for vintage style miniatures, which I checked out further. One is Barbara and Lew Kummerow, who make very high quality, detailed lamps and small "electrical" appliances from the 1920s and 1930s. I have never seen such items available anywhere else, at least not at this quality. They make a vacuum cleaner, two heaters, a fan and an iron. I bought the last mixer and toaster, and I don't know if they'll be making more. They also have the BEST Tiffany-style, Arts & Crafts and Frank Lloyd Wright style lamps, which are very realistic and highly detailed. Unfortunately, they don't have a website, but I recommended that they get one. They do shows and mail order. They do have email, and they sent me pictures as attachments. If any of you are interested in these items, send them an email to: kumini@thegrid.net These minis are just too great to be sold only at shows - they should be available world-wide, so encourage them to get a website. I also placed an order with Bob Carlisle, of Carlisle Miniatures. He makes a mall but very unique line of furniture and some accessories, primarily from the 20s, 30s and 40s. He makes three different styles of radios (the best I've seen), some occasional tables, including one specifically for placing a radio on top, with a shelf below and pockets on the sides for magazines. He makes a Jenny Lind bed, a kitchen table with matching chairs, and an Art Deco bedroom suite. He makes a telephone table and sewing table that are just SO vintage! The sewing table opens from the top and the front.The prices are very reasonable for all-cherry construction. Bob is also a Machinist, and makes his own hardware and radio dials, as well as a sewing machine (comes with the table) and a candlestick style telephone (sold separately from the table). He doesn't have email, and only does mail order. So, send a SASE to: Carlisle Miniatures Jonathan in Israel |
Medical stuff: I think a company over here in the UK sells all sorts of medical stuff I think they are called JLB miniatures http://www.jlbminiatures.co.uk/ Sharon |
Metal Castings: You can make your own castings by making a model in wax. Use the wax model to make a bivalve(2 halves) cast (Negative). Melt solder into the mold and take out your finished metal objects. Dr Bob |
Firefighter hats: I happened to see Kim's request for a 1" fireman's hat. I have them. You can contact me at fantasyworkshopa@cs.com Marilyn |
Medical furniture and equipment: This website: http://www.countrystoreminiatures.com has a great selection of medical equipments, furniture and accessories. When you enter click on find and put "medical" in...first thing to come up is an examining table, sink, chair and then keep scrolling!!! Cathy Heimbauer |
Medical Miniatures, Stockton miniatures also carries some items, hope this helps! The link to their site: http://www.stockton-miniatures.com/page25.html Michelle |
For kitchen miniatures: http://www.jlmcountrycorner.com/ or http://www.jlbminiatures.co.uk/ or http://www.kaufmannag.ch/ or http://www.rainydayminiatures.com/ or http://smallerandbetterthings.com/ or http://www.stockton-miniatures.com/ Nursemini |
Feathers: Looking for feathers ? Try...... http://www.angelfire.com/biz2/plumesnfeathers/homepage.html Barb |
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