Lathes: The discussion about the Anker Duplicator and other lathes has been   informative.   I have a couple of technical items to help tie this all  together. Dr. Bob's idea of using a plumbing fixture is problematic because  there is no 3/4-16 pipe thread that I can find in Machinery's   Handbook.  Pipe threads are usually different.

George Hoffman gave a great history of Anker's equipment.   The person  who bought the overhead shaper from Bonnie Klein is Rick Lane.   Rick changed the collet system and also uses a Ryobi die grinder.  I have seen one of his new machines at Castine.  Perhaps someone who has used this machine at the Guild School can comment on Rick's modifications.

A far as I know the Anker Duplicator lathe and the Simms lathe are both made from Taig components.  I don't think the Taig is set up for a number 1 Morse Taper in the head stock.  Their collets fit directly on the spindle and are held in place with a 3/4-16 nut so that taper is too steep.  George may know how the Guild School modified   these Taig machines to be more useful for miniatures.

Smaller Than Life does not carry any Anker machinery.  We did purchase the templates and template making equipment from Anker and Dean Jensen so that service is available.  Pam and I just couldn't allow the templates to be lost when Dean retired.   We get our lathe duplicators to fit the Carbatec Lathe we sell.  We also distribute Sherline and the Cameron drill press.   BTW both the Carbatec and Sherline use the #1 MT in the head stock spindle.

Also we do not sell any of Anker's tapes.  I think NAME may have a set to lend to their members.

Pam & Pete Boorum

Picking up objects::  As I was flipping through a gardening catalog yesterday (yet another hobby--well, two if you count the catalog shopping), I saw one of those suction bulb planters meant to help one pick up the tiniest individual seeds for sowing.   It comes with several different sized needles for different seeds.   This would be great for minis, especially picking up things like FIMO strawberries to place in a bowl, etc.  This would also eliminate a release problem like using a tacky toothpick or similar would present (OK, I've got the item where I want it, now how do I get it off the toothpick??).

Lynette in WNC

Dremel Cutter: I have found the best cutter for my Dremel in American Science and

Surplus.   It was advertised as a diamond cutter, and it only cost $2.95.  I got it several months ago, and I use it all the time, but it doesn't seem to be wearing out at all.  I think it is still offered in their catalogue, but if it isn't, you can get a diamond cutter from the dealer that carries Dremel for $13.00.  I have one of those, too, but I like the ASS cutter better, because it is bigger.  I recommend this company to everyone, as it has a lot of good stuff.   You can look them up on the Internet, and order their catalogue on line.

DeeDee in Carmel Valley

Curtain Brackets: I use clip-on earring backs (bulk packs available in jewelry section of Michaels, Joann's etc.) as curtain brackets.  Pull the rubber pad off (save for baby-bottle nipple) and paint or paper the round back to match your wallcovering,  and glue the back to the wall with the hinge toward the floor.  Once glue has dried, gently open the hinge and set the curtain rod into the bracket, then close.   Looks very like real-size decorative brass brackets and allows you to change curtains whenever you want.

Loretta

Storing paint: I store mine in plastic boxes, made to store shoes.   I arrange them by color and store them upside down.  This way I can see the color and the paint doesn't dry out and is always at the top when I need it.   No waiting for it to come out of the bottle.  I also store glue bottles upside down, especially when I'm using them, (put the cap back on, of course).    Another tip for organizing your workroom is to store strip wood, trim and dowels in PVC pipe cut to the length you need.  My husband built an extra deep shelf for me when he made the cabinets in my workroom, the PVC comes in various diameters and I sort the wood by size into the different PVC pipes.  When I open the cabinet door I see just the ends of the PVC and the wood.  I hope that makes sense.

Also if you use a lot of stains, you can stain a scrap of wood the color of the stain in the can and glue it to the lid.  You can see at a glance what color stain is in the can.  Do be aware that different wood will accept the stain differently, but it will be a starting place.

Lillie in Texas

Packaging the dolls so they survive in checked luggage: When returning from the CIMTA shows, we use the plastic "shoe boxes" from most any discount store.   Wrap your doll in tissue paper to hold it firmly in the box, then either tape the cover on, or we use large rubber bands. This works very well.

Tom & Kari

Applying Yes glue on wallpaper: I have two ways of applying glue to wallpaper.  One is to use a stiff bristled brush, and sweep it on.  The other way, which is much faster, is to take a tongue depressor, dip it in the glue, and put a glob on the wallpaper, then using the entire flat side of the stick smooth it out onto the paper. It is kind of like toweling with a stick.   This method gives good, smooth coverage, and you can slide it right off the edges of the wallpaper   onto your underlying paper (wax, newspaper, or whatever).

Carol

Applying Yes glue on wallpaper: I use Yes glue (also sold as Grandmother Stover's) for wallpapering all the time.   I apply it to the wall, not the paper, using an old credit card to spread it very thinly.  Then I put the paper on and use another credit card to smooth out the paper.   This method seems to work quite well for me.  Tip: try to use the kind of credit card that does not have the raised embossed letters and is a bit more flexible - my favorite is actually an old auto club membership card.

Chris in Minnesota

Reducing the thickness of wood: The Preac thickness sander is made to reduce wood in thickness.   It has the advantage of leaving none of the chip out experienced with planers on very thin lumber.  It is very easy to use and the abrasive sleeves last a long time.  Works on any thickness or type of wood up to 3" width. I just put it up on the you-asked page of http://smallerthanlife.com . http://www.nh.ultranet.com/~smallife/you_asked.htm Planing mini lumber can be done using a full size planer and a backing board. It works pretty well down to 1/8".   Thinner than that, I get lots of tear out and lose too much lumber up the dust collector.  This is especially true with the quarter sawn cherry we prefer to use.

The Carbatec miniature lathe and duplicator are also up on the web site. http://www.nh.ultranet.com/~smallife/carbatec.htm

Pete Boorum

Wooden hairbrush turned bristles: Some wooden hairbrushes have lovely wooden turnings for bristles. I found one hair brush and removed the wooden bristles from the rubber base and they have knobs on either end. They removed from the base so easily. They remind me of small wooden nativity figures. With the round knob on the end they would make terrific mini angels, dolls, and Santa figures. The knob at the other end would be good for clothes hooks and mug hooks or even drawer pulls or tiny little chairs. Another wooden hair brush that I found the other day is less tapered and has different sized turnings. I can just see it now. I will have to buy every wooden bristle brush out there just for a collection of different turnings. I did the same with coloured light brite pegs that I enjoy turning on the lathe. I think I must have every shape, size and colour they ever made. The older ones are longer and come in colours that are great for wine bottles. Sometimes I think I like sorting and collecting as much as miniatures,

Jean Day

Pasta Machine: I must tell you about some ideas I've got from my son about the Pasta Machine. You can make quilling paper on it, just take some colored paper and run it through the Pasta Machine. You get two sizes on it.  And you can also use it as a shredding paper machine.

Linda from Norway

Regarding the smell of smoke in miniatures...place stinky object in a plastic bag with a small cup of white vinegar and leave sit for a few hours.  The vinegar should remove the odor and the vinegar smell will dissipate.

Tasha in MN

Miniature balloons:  Last year at around Easter time Michael's craft store sold floral picks that were supposed to be eggs. They were pastel colours with a slightly pearlized look to them. Each pick had five or six eggs (which became balloons!)I trimmed the cloth covered wire to the appropriate length of a 1/12" string and stuck a couple in a wicker  basket with some mini plants to be a gift basket. They looked good in the florist   shop I made for my daughter. Because the wire was rigid, the balloons stand straight up and resemble helium balloons.

Cheryl L.

Sounds for Minis:: Try http://www.teepeecrafts.co.uk   they have small push button sound boxes, motion sensitive ones (I drove everyone mad with my croaking frog in my "garden box" until the battery ran out!!), medley of Christmas music with flashing Christmas lights etc. & all loads cheaper than you would imagine. They are UK based but used to shipping abroad.

Sue C.

Smells in miniatures: As a general rule I wouldn't advocate authentic smells for miniatures and her comments were right on! but in specialized situations they could add just the right touch. I mentioned a large wall hung miniature I plan on doing in the next year or so using sound and smell, the following description should explain my thoughts.

Picture the interior of a miniature Gothic Cathedral  about 5 feet high and 3 feet wide and 16 inches deep. It is wall hung with the floor level about eve level. the doors are open and 5 monks and 2 alter boys are entering the nave for evening vespers the alter boys are carrying the cross and the sensor and the monks are all carrying candles. Through the doors you can see the city spread out below and the setting sun is shining through the large rose window in the wall over the doors. in the back ground over the subdued sound of the city Gregorian  chants are heard and from the sensor the smell of incense wafts. Standing up close one should get an almost virtual sense of being there.

I think you get my drift in the use of smell in  this specific situation.

Rik Pierce

Rik's Scented Cathedral: I think if you got some essential oils in myrrh, frankincense, sandalwood, etc. - I'm not sure what would be needed, and soaked cotton balls in said oils, they could be hidden behind (or rubbed into) furniture or near lights (make scented light bulb rings!).  If there are cushions on the pews, priests chairs (throne-like) or 'kneeling rails', as they often were in Anglican churches - again - forgive me if I don't have the correct terminology - I believe my grandmother's church had worn maroon velvet - perhaps you can create a potpourri from the oils, and stuff your upholstery with it carefully.  You can take it a step further - make an ornate hanging vessel, and actually use real cone incense - if you're careful.  Now, I have a strong imagination, and may have stepped beyond all practicality here, but I think it's workable; depending on your scale, and how you're creating this project - making sure, of course, your ventilation is adequate.  

Stacey

Freezer wrap: What I want to do with it.

1. I want to use it as a backing for thin fabric so I can print on it.

2. I would like to use it as a backing for  printed tissue paper and paper napkins ( the printed layer only) so I can    use it   for my greeting card and envelope making. I do not take  the freezer paper away but I leave it on for these projects.   For the cards I cut this paper into pieces and use it in card blanks. Ican also make 12thscale cards this way.

3. I want to use tissue  permanently backed with freezer paper to fold tiny gift bags and boxes for my dollshouses.

4. I would like to use it for some quilting projects. Perhaps even minis?!

5. Finally I would love to experiment with white tissue backed with freezer paper and   run it through my printer to see if I can print my own paper to use for the things mentioned under 2 and 3

Marianne

Miniatures on the Road: It has been a few weeks since our last road trip, and the next one is coming up.  One of the most important aspects of planning for a trip is:  What kind of projects can I work on in the car? In the first place, during daylight hours, there is very good light in the front seat of the car.   Not so great in the back seat, so   claim your spot!   Some of my  usual projects include:

Rubbing down the latest coat of finish on furniture projects

Sanding

Weaving the seats on rope-seated chairs

Weaving narrow tapes for Shaker chairs on an Inkle loom in my lap

Counted cross stitch (save this for the interstate - it's not for the back roads!)

A few other observations:

A padded fabric sun visor makes a fine pincushion.

Don't try anything with an Exacto knife - you would need more band-aids than the experiment is worth, and you really shouldn't bleed on the miniatures. I have tried gluing up projects like chairs, but the results are inconsistent and the glue gets everywhere it shouldn't be.

Keep a small bag handy for trash.  A previously unused barf bag from the airlines makes a great conversation piece.

If you have too many loose parts, they  will end up in too many places in the vehicle,   if your traveling companion has to hit the brakes hard and fast.  (Trust me on this - it's a corollary to Murphy's Law)

A final comment - Pete says that his idea of purgatory is the sound of hand sanding.  (He could turn on the radio if he really wanted to.)  Happy trails,

Pam Boorum

Paper "wooden" floors: This might not be what you are looking for, but I used laminating paper.. the adhesive kind, and got wonderful results.   Everyone that doesn't actually lean and look close or touch it thinks it's a real wooden floor with a glossy finish. (wow, that's 2 posts for me in 10 minutes, a late starter am I but when I get started I guess I don't waste any time eh?) :o)

Kim

Paper flooring: I finished my dollhouse floors by going to a printable site and printing the patterns I wanted to glossy photo paper.  I then applied three coats of clear acrylic sealer gloss (Plaid brand spray) about 20 minutes apart.   This gave my "linoleum" looking floors a very realistic look.  I've also done this with cobblestone and wood patterns, and was very satisfied with the results.

Joan/Indiana