I've used Envirotex but tend to prefer the type called 'Castin Resin' - it is sold in metal cans at most craft stores. The catalyst comes in a small plastic bottle. This type of resin is more expensive, but the results can be achieved much faster than Envirotex, which can take several hours to harden/thicken up. It also takes a bit more practice, as the ratio of resin to catalyst is 1 ounce resin to 10 drops catalyst, but I just usually add a few more drops of catalyst to "cover the bases" and to speed up the process. It also has a stronger chemical odor but I just follow the "rules" and NEVER work with any resin unless in a well ventilated area.

Laura

Holeless Beads: They make great Christmas ornaments also. For those of you still looking for beads, go to my website http://www.ladybug-fairies.com, you will find 2 sizes and I have a new size, not yet pictured, especially for eyes! There are special mixes for bubbles, grapes, and ornaments. For the bubbles, Ace hardware has a clear caulk that comes out white but dries clear and is the best to use for BUBBLES - fill container to the top (caulk will shrink as it dries). Squash dog, bear, doll, etc. into caulk and let overflow naturally. Pour bubble mix over caulk, and muck about with a toothpick. Let dry!

Sue Thwaite

Water: I use "Castin Resin" brand resin for my water gardens, etc....it smells nasty, and is not recommended for those with respiratory difficulties. But, it WORKS. It typically begins to set up in about 5-10 minutes. You can speed the process by adding more catalyst than needed for the amount of resin. It's about $12-13 for a 16-ounce can (the cans look like the metal ones used for charcoal lighter fluid ) and the Catalyst comes in 1-ounce bottles.

Laura in OKC

Ocean waves: I was making an ocean roombox and used GE Silicone Clear Sealant. IT is NOT CLEAR - it is opaque. So if you want to use it for ocean like I did, you can paint the surface it will be on and the color diffuses through the opacity of the "caulking"

What I found so nice is that you can "work" the silicone by dipping your finger in plain, cheap isopropyl rubbing alcohol and smooth or spread or form the silicone as I did to make waves, or ripples. The alcohol also gives you plenty of time before the silicone starts to "cure".

The clean up is simple as the alcohol wipes off any silicone that gets on yourself or tools. I do not know about how it cleans if you get the silicone on fabric. This is not as clear as the DAP Clear Caulking. I think that one can be finger worked with liquid detergent like Wisk or Joy. I have not used the liquid detergent with the DAP Clear Caulking.

Back to the GE Silicone; If this stuff is soluble in alcohol, what are the possibilities of coloring it by mixing some color into the alcohol and then mixing the alcohol with the silicone? Just a thought. I gotta try that and let you people know what happens. Of course, if I blow up he house and me, its been a lot of fun knowing you all. Until next time;- )

Dr Bob...Delray Beach, FL

Bubble Bath: For bubbles in bath, I understand that if you use the StillWater stuff, and put a straw in it and blow when it's just about to set, that it will form bubbles naturally.

Helen

Bubble Bath: One of my most favorite things to make: Mix no hole clear and pearl beads. Fill tub with clear silicon tub caulking and make peaks. sprinkle with beads and sprinkle with some iridescent extra fine blue glitter or hologram extra fine glitter. Let sit overnight. Shake off excess next day.

Lyn

Bubble Bath: Get a tube of clear liquid sealant. I used Liquid Nails sealant. You'll need small crystal beads and blue violet ultra fine glitter. Put your doll in the tub and start to put the sealant in. It is very thick so you can make peaks and ripples with it. I put a little coming over the top of the tub, some on your doll. Then pour on the beads and place them where they look good. They will stick to the sealant. When you like the way it looks sprinkle on the glitter. Then turn the whole thing upside down to release the glitter than isn't sticking to anything. There you have it, a realistic looking bubble bath.

Cam

Bubble Bath: I use ground up Styrofoam to make bubbles. First I grate it with a cheese grater and then I add it to resin that has a drop or two of white opaque dye in it. I mix it together until the Styrofoam is sticky but not too watery. With a toothpick I form mounds of bubbles in the tub. Looks pretty good.

Shellie

Bubble Bath: Use no hole glass beads a mix of pearl and clear. Fill the tub or container with silicone CLEAR caulk to the top (it shrinks as it dries) squash your dog, bear, doll, etc. into caulk and let it overflow. Sprinkle the bead mix on top of the caulk and muck it about with a toothpick. Let it dry - looks great and the scale is much more pleasing to the eye. Ace hardware sells clear drying caulk for $1.79 a tube- it comes out white but dries "wax-paper" clear and makes great bath water. I have the bubble mix if you can't find it.

LadyBug

Liquid in Bottles: Try mineral oil (not spirits) for liquid in bottles. I think it has the same shelf life as plutonium.

Mary Kay

Liquid for Bottles: If you want to use colored water. dip a q-tip in household bleach and stir the water with it before putting in the bottle. Also, candle wax inside the lid will protect it from rust and form a bit of a seal. Another option might be Future Floor wax. It hardens very slowly in a sealed container and if you want to remove it. . just add a bit of floor wax remover or ammonia and let it sit. You will be able to wipe it out with a q-tip after it sits awhile. I should mention that Future Floor Wax is also great for clear coating fimo objects and decals.

Donna

Liquid for Bottles: I suggest a very light sewing machine oil. It is clear, should last for years, and won't hurt the bottle or the lid in any way.

Lloyd Cooper

Liquid in Bottles: A wonderful instructor Mary Wrenn used liquid glycerin. It is available at your local pharmacy. Non-mini tip: It also works for getting mustard stains out. Just wet stain, mix a little liquid detergent with the liquid glycerin and brush (scrub) one way, make sure to use a natural bristle brush.

Sondra

Casting Lamps: A suggestion is to use resin casting for lamp. A really good source for resin casting materials and info is : Bragdon Enterprises, 2960 Garden Tower Lane, Georgetown, California 95634, (530) 333-1365. He has a great video on making all kinds of castings using RTV molds and resin. Mostly aimed at model railroaders but even shows how to cast lamp bases and Tiffany type shades.

Bill Hudson

Molds: The material you make the mold out of is determined by what you want to use the mold for. If you are pouring porcelain you need to use a fine grade of plaster so that it will absorb the water from the clay. This allows it to shrink so that it can easily be removed from the mold. I don't make molds for other materials, so others will have to tell you more about that.

Debbie Olsen

Soap Suds: How about those no hole glass beads that everyone uses? I bet you could use clear, white &/or pearl ones mixed with the silicone caulk to make the suds.

Parisa Javidi

Caulk: I have used DAP tub and tile caulk for everything from frosting mini cakes to decorate to using it for mortar between rocks for buildings and for landscaping. I love the way it sets up but I hate the lack of control with the big tube and I am not very conscientious about closing it up before it gets dry or leaks out the end. Last week I found, at Wal-Mart, Elmer’s Squeeze and Caulk in a bottle that looks like a typical glue bottle. It has a twist top so you can adjust the flow and closes easily. Works great, just like the tile caulk. Sets up great, paints easily and no more mess. Found it in the hardware section.

Charlie

Tacky Resin: Your resin may be tacky for precisely the reason you stated....not enough catalyst. Or, if you live in a very humid area, it may just take a little longer to set. Did you use the type of resin which has an equal, one-to-one 'formula' of resin to catalyst? This type generally tends to take much longer to harden, and can remain tacky for several days. However, YES, you can 'fix' it.....just mix up a little bit of resin, and cover the top layer....this should do the trick. I've discovered that, if I 'speed' up the hardening process by adding more catalyst than needed, the sides pull away ......as I've tried using exactly the 'right' amount, the pulling away decreases substantially. Here's a little fix: try a bit of clear nail polish along the edges AFTER the resin is completely cured....I wait at least a full week after the final resin layer for this....as the nail polish 'fill's the space, it also 'hides' the gaps!

Laura in OKC

Resin in Chrysnbon: If you use Envirotex, you should be able to put it in your Chrysnbon toilet without damaging the plastic. Envirotex is plastic friendly, unlike some other resins. I have used it often in the Chrysnbon punch bowls, cups, tumblers and pitchers with excellent results.

Jeanette

Resin facts: We went to a club meeting a while back and made beef stew using resin for the first time. As suspected, the Envorotex resin is 100 per cent solid epoxy, similar to epoxy glue and the resins used in seamless industrial flooring. The unpleasant odor is the amines in the hardener which can cause contact skin irritation with some people. Because they contain no solvents they will not chemically attack the styrene used in Chrysnbon.

Epoxies cure chemically and the cure is accelerated by heat. They also produce heat as they cure. The larger the mass of the epoxy the more heat and the faster the cure. I doubt if there is enough heat to melt the styrene in the toilet water application, but to be sure, you can reduce the heat in two ways when using resin. 1.) Decreasing the room temperature will show the reaction and keep it cooler. 2.) Applying resin in layers will also reduce heat and slow curing.

This may be more technical than need be but it may help somebody to control the reaction times and temperatures of resins.

Pete