Medical clinic printables: I have come across some very good web sites that have printables, one that I found was:

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/miniboopin

They had some medical labels, and if you go to links you may find more of what you are looking for.

Kathy

China painting. I have not done any for the past 6 or 7 years but I can answer some of the questions. First of all all china paints are fired at a low temperature. Some of the older ones have a range of ^017, 018, 019 and even 020. These are not as warm as earthernware temperatures of maturity (^04, 05 and 06). I have mixed old and new china paints and not found it a problem. I have bought some new ones from Seeley's in Oneionta, NY and they are online. There are other brands and when I bought them from my china painting instructor she bought them in large quantities and resold them in containers she packaged herself so they did not have names. But I have had recent catalogues for china blanks and all of these places stock normal fired china paint powders. I have never used the liquid china paints but I have some friends who swear by them, and I would not hesitate to try them. Try some searches on Google for outlets for china paint powder or go to the Seeley's site.

Gary the Yank in NH in the US

Airbrush advice:   I bought an Aztec, as that seemed to be liked by modellers (made by Testors). The clean-up and paint bottle changes are both easy with this model, apparently, and it has a good grip.  I found good airbrush info at  http://www.io.com/~fazia/arbrshfq.html There is also, naturally, an airbrush.com

Michael's 40 percent off coupon makes it cheaper than any I found online.

Lynette in WNC

Painting plastic and polymer clay: I'm working on a project using wood and plastic together and I found the water soluble paint Polly Scaleworks GREAT! It is put out by Floquil. But if you get it on your hands it has to wear off! AND it sticks to plastic! The pigment is so fine you don't get that gloppy buildup.

I am very excited about this paint for polymer clay too. Doesn't chip easy like other acrylics. One drawback--it is a killer on brushes. The paint almost immediately dries so you have to keep the bush rinsed often. I found another paint that looks similar at MicroMark http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/products/81878.html

Judy K

Glue: Just wanted to share something with you. Until recently, when I needed a glue,  I have usually used a white tacky glue or super glue for dressing and accessorizing my miniatures. At a show, I purchased a glue called Magna-Tac 809 and this last week I have used it for everything from the mohair, moss and feathers on my faeries and to the ribbons, jewelry and petticoats on my dancing gypsy doll. It dries clear, (really clear!). and it is creates a bond that is unbelievably strong.

I haven't looked for it around town, but I am sure it can be purchased at craft and fabric stores. Also, here is the web site listed on the bottle: http://www.beacon1.com

Lyn Trenary

Boop Mini's has tons of printables to share, a lot of work has gone into them & you can find just about anything you need! http://www.geocities.com/boopmini40/

Darlene/NJ

Dremel table saw belt... I wrote to Dremel customer service and they suggested that I go to   McMaster - Carr Supply Co.  It is a warehouse in California (562 692-5911)  - web page is http://www.mcmaster.com  The correct belt for the Dremel saw is Catalog 6952K51 running about $2.60 each.   They arrived very quickly. The belts are endless flat belts that are 1/4 inch wide and have a 10 inch circumference.   They seem to be a rubberized green fabric which should be interesting and could prevent some of the slippage that the Dremel saw belts have a problem with.   My Dremels are tried and true,  I have two of them, a Microlux and a Preac.  They all have their own reason for being. 

Renee

Electro Files:  I did buy one of those  Electro Files.   It is by Precision Hobby Tools and I must tell you - it is a hoot!  It is about the size of a Dremel rotary tool but it saws and files and does small finishing work. Mind you this was not cheap (starts at around $90!) but with my hands becoming temperamental some days, I find that I can work longer with this tool and still do small finishing work.  At any rate I would recommend it for at least the top of a wish list!  http://www.precisionhobby.com/

Renee

Heavy Duty Chopper ll  The other tool I got - I think it was from MicroMark is a very small and sturdy chopper. It is the heavy Duty Chopper ll - it was about $40  and I like it MUCH better than any other chopper I have ever used.   It has miter markings - the blade - even though the same razor blade the chopper uses - it seems better.  It really is a nice working space too.  Much more of a substantial feel to it.

Renee

Airbrush Advice: I have the Tamiya spray work system - which is more of a spray gun that an air brush.  They also do an air brush that I think can be used with the compressor. I have not used it much - it tends to live in cupboards.  I think it would be ideal for painting bigger things - specially 1:24 scale cars - which is obviously the main market, and houses or roomboxes - anywhere you could use a spray can to paint.

I tend to stain furniture and it's overkill for smaller items  (although I'm tempted to try out the air brush attachment).

Sandra in Wellington New Zealand

Alsatian pottery: Carol of SP Miniatures has Alsatian wares made by Elizabeth Bettler of France. This is the direct link to the web page:
http://www.spminiatures.com/bettler.html

Wendy in Clinton, NJ

mini ceramic molds: somebody was asking about a source for molds for making miniature ceramics/porcelain.
Cross Country Molds
Rt. 1 box 231
Greenfield, Missouri 65661
crosscountrymold@netscape.net

417/637-2606

Kathy in Wisconsin

Art Board: I came across this large art supply site on the net and found exactly what you would need, and maybe some others could use as well.
http://www.dickblick.com/categories/artboards/

They list many different of bristol board and illustration board as the heavier material is called. I cannot tell you if you would need a cold press or hot press illustration board, but someone at this site probably could help you.

David in Santiago

Ceiling Fan Sites:
http://greengablesdollhouse.com/mhlight7.htm

http://cir-kitconcepts.com/Products.html#standard

that should get you started.

Nursemini

Found the Basketball Article: Ha Ha!  I found it, Kathy!   It is in Dollhouse Miniatures, March 1998.   It is a two-page article with a couple of pictures and just general directions. She does say that she puzzled over how to cut the ball for quite a while before it dawned on her to just let the air out.  She then cut a hole in the ball and "gave it to a friend who treated the inside with a hardening substance so the ball would permanently hold its shape and have a level floor."

Dayle in MD

Antique Magazines: I found some at the following site: http://www.efn.org/~variscom/page15.html

Linda from Michigan

Beads - Try Fire Mountain Gems, web site: http://www.firemountaingems.com

If they don't have what you need, get a copy of Button & Bead magazine. They have some great ideas for making your own beads with polymer clay and also lots of ads from people who sell many different beads.

Ronni

THE source for veneers and veneering supplies is Constantine's. They also carry a wide variety of decorative banding constructed from veneer segments. Shop them on the web at http://www.constantines.com/

For those looking for consistent figure suitable for mass production- they offer complete flitches (whole logs sliced into veneer and consecutively numbered). No, I don't work for them- but I do shop there!

Brian

Pauline, Mansfield UK

Dead Pheasants: I make them.
Iamazin@aol.com

Alice Zinn