Resources Page: 12 |
Dead Pheasants: Ann Weiner has some dead pheasants on her web site http://annw.miniature.net They are from England, made with real feathers and look terrific. She also has a hunter that could go with them. Becky Holliday |
Flocking - This lady carries flocking in every color you can think of: "Betty Dann-Designs by Dann" email: DesgnbyDan@aol.com http://imaginationmall.com/dann/ Ruth, Grass Valley, CA |
Dremel: Home Depot gives Dremel lessons. They will even do a group class for your mini club; just call them if there's one near you. Or, try their website: http://www.dremel.com/html/started/started.html Stacey Torres |
Thin wood: if veneers are too thin to do what you want, I custom cut wood. I have about 15 domestic species and a few exotics. I specialize in 1/8 and 1/16" thicknesses. For precision's sake I can only do 4" wide. I have some very satisfied small stuffers out there. Email me if you're interested. lumbertray@aol.com Ray Lumbert |
Cernit, sculpy, Premo: an excellent source for Cernit and any other polymer clay is Marie Segal at the Clay factory in Escondido. Her website for ordering http://www.clayfactory.net/ Carol Wagner Joshua Tree Calif. |
Egyptian miniatures: I remember someone was looking for Egyptian items. Just ran across this and thought I'd post it. http://www.wildorchidminiatures.com/egypt.htm Fran |
Dremel: If you visit their web site http://www.dremel.com/html/home_fr.html you will find a wealth of information there. If you go to the Customer Service page, Literature request, you can order a product catalog and a copy of "Projects for the Imagination Uses Guide for Rotary Tools" for free. They also have an owners' club and hundreds of projects on their "Project Finder" page, complete with photo instructions and a list of everything you need to do the project. It is probably one of the best web sites I have ever run across. David |
Casting For Purls - A new Section: http://CastingForPurls.com website. The new section deals with miniature blankets, coverlets and afghans. How to calculate the size, which yarns/threads to use and a lot of other little things you need to consider. Also there are a couple of patterned stitches included to start you off, and I plan on adding more as time permits. So to see this new section, select the Patterns link, then select Blankets, Coverlets and Afghans. Joy in Pointe Claire |
Landscaping Challenge: I had the same problem of a complex landscaped project that was kinda like building the boat in the basement. You can see how I solved this by going to my website: http://www.homestead.co m/davesminiplace When you get there, go to the architectural models and surf down to the "connector building." This one was built in removable parts in two dimensions: Horizontally to get it out the doors and Vertically to show the details of each floor. Luckily so. Remember, the model you see at the website was built before the building was. It helped get the funds to build the building. I am now challenged to update the vertical members (2nd & 3rd floors) to the latest configuration. That is the vertical approach. Next, I must take apart the horizontal phases shown in the website photos to update the aquarium displays. I am thankful I can do it in manageable steps because each segment can be worked on individually. I will be happy to talk further to anyone who has seen this model on the website about how it was segmented, first to get it out the door, and now to facilitate reworking the model. Dave |
Aged Hinges: I had been reading an article titled, "Instant Age for New Hardware," in the new issue of American Woodworker. Although it related to full size hinges, it could be applied to mini hinges. It mentions a product called "Brass Ager ($2.75 for 8 oz.) that is supposed to work with solid brass, solid steel, or zinc plate. It will not work on brass plated stuff. I have not used it; but, here is the URL for them. http://www.kennedyhardware.com Dave, Bradenton, FL |
doll house plans: http://www.jacksonsminiatures.com/ Connie Sapronetti |
Dollhouse Plans: For everyone who is looking for dollshouseplans. You can download them for free at these urls: http://users.iol.it/petemalu/progetti/bambole.html Klara |
TeePee Crafts: They now have a fantastic selection of 1/144 furniture to paint, both modern and antique style. I went dizzy going up and down. They have just updated their web site and there is now some wonderful photos of dolls houses ,as well as decorated eggs. Well worth a visit to their site and also there is a list of other shows they do. For those with the link in Favourites/bookmarks, you may need to update it, as it changed. http://www.teepeecrafts.co.uk/ Pauline, Mansfield, UK |
Pub accessories: To all those looking to make pubs, just found the following link, Havana Holly |
Pubs: For those working on pubs (this may have been mentioned before), I believe the March, 1984 issue of Nutshell News has a article and pictures on this. Marilyn in Baton Rouge |
Dremel: For ease and safer way of using a Dremel rotary tool. I have used the flex shaft offered by Dremel for many years. Using Flex Shaft handpiece I don't have to hold the awkward tool itself instead I hold a 1" diameter handpiece with choice of bit in chuck. MicroMark`s Page: http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/products/60889.html ( If you choose a flex shaft choose "Dremel" made) With the stand (on this page holding Dremel, flex shaft. MicroMark`s Page: http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/products/50352.html and using a speed control (on this page) it allows you to give a lighter touch and better control. With my work piece in a vise: http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/products/81314.html http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/products/21123.html or ??? The Dremel drill stand; It is a low cost entry level accessory for the Dremel rotary drill, but with lots of patience it will achieve marvels. http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/products/50288.html Somewhere Dremel offers a table top holder for the Moto Tool with a swivel, sorry I lost source. Some of your project pieces you can hold in your hand while using handpiece. Note; Just like brushing your hair, if you brush against grain hair will stand up..... therefore if you push tool against grain the tool will kick back. Try to go with grain, however there are times you have no choice, so use lighter pressure. NOTE ! Using the circular saw chucked in Dremel "Freehand" is a VERY Dangerous way to use it. Only use in drill press or some other controlled set up When using any power tools ..... listen to them, after using them over time you will hear when they are running correctly or straining and when straining. trouble is coming either a jamb, kickback or a bad finished product === Curious George; Just what kind of things are people trying to accomplish with a Dremel tool? I see that at the Tom Bishop Show in Chicago they offer workshops (unfortunately my try this AM would not open site). If you check offerings it would offer new tool users a great opportunity to get some hands on basics from the workshops. Most of the woodworking classes offered at the IGMA Guild School use other type tools than Dremel rotary. Tools such as "Overhead Shapers, Cameron drill presss, wood and metal lathes, table saws etc. You can with patience make something with a hammer and screw driver, but a tool designated for a specific purpose does it so much easier, faster more accurately and far better quality of finish. George Hoffman ~ IGMA Fellow |
Sampler Kits: My good friend, Annelle Ferguson, recently launched her web site which is chock-a-block full of wonderful needlepoint Sampler Kits. Enjoy!!! bobbie |
Landscaping a house too big for table: I had a similar problem -- my dollhouse also covered the table it rested on and I extended it for landscaping by buying a larger sheet of thin Birchwood that extended beyond the dollhouse. I built the landscape in three different sections as the foam only comes in 2 foot lengths and it needed to be longer. The foam needs to rest on a stable (wood or wood like material for stability) you can then place the foam on the wood up to the foundation and plant trees, grass bushes or whatever you like. I have large trees and bushes/rocks placed around the house. When you are looking at the landscaping you cannot tell the foam in three sections. When I move the house I remove the three moveable landscape areas - place them in smaller boxes that protect them - remove the house from the piece of birch wood and load it into a van - then slide the Birchwood in the van and reassemble where and when I want. If you want to view my house with the extended landscape area you can on my website http://JeanWolfe.com scroll to the bottom of the home page and select "my dolls in dollshouses" you will see the landscape extending from the front and sides of the house. I was limited in the room I had for the house and landscape area. And when I moved I didn't want to not be able to take the landscaping with the house. I hope this helps - you just have to plan it out. Jean in Seattle |
Rust effects etc in UK: Tanis, Have you tried Panduro Hobby for the things you want? They are a mail order company with a large catalogue (I can never get one without ordering something)They used to mainly deal with orders over 25 pounds but now they take smaller orders. Panduro Hobby Westway House, Transport Ave., Brentford, Middx. TW8 9HT Tel:0208 847 6161 e-mail: pandurohobby@compuserve.com http://www.pandurohobby.whd.net You can sometimes buy their catalogue at large W.H. Smith branches. Sharon from Hants |
texturing walls: I'm thinking those products will be too thick to look good in scale, and the spray stuff will have unpleasant fumes until it's dry. I would experiment first on a piece of scrap wood (outdoors) and let it dry before you decide. And please let us know -- the tips based on experience, whether bad or good, are valuable! Possibly you will like the results from plain, smooth drywall joint compound better (it's pretty cheap and comes ready mixed). I haven't used it on a dollhouse yet, only on a real wall, but I can't think of any reason it wouldn't be just fine. The beauty of it is that it's water based and can be easily removed while wet. When it's dry it can be sanded down if you're not happy with some areas (but makes fine dust). It can be troweled on and pushed into interesting patterns with something like an old credit card (isn't that a great use for those?) or dabbed lightly with a rag or sponge to get various textures. Try it, it's fun. A real knock-down finish is hard to achieve. I watched a skilled guy repair a ceiling one time. The material is dabbed and lifted so that it leaves little peaks and then there is another pass with the trowel just skimming those peaks flat. Orange peel is named for the fruit it resembles. You might be able to get that effect by dabbing a rag or sponge, but will need to experiment. There is also a product that is called "dollhouse stucco" I wouldn't be surprised if it's pretty much the same thing, but with a very fine texture added. This would possibly be just right for you. Here is a web page where someone has some pictures of her work in progress, including the half-timbered and stucco effect: http://www.dollhouse-by-lilofee.com/workshop.html She builds custom dollhouses in her spare time & completes several per year, while having a full time job. Her site, which she keep up to the minute, is very image and midi intensive, so if you have a slow connection, might as well play free cell while you wait! I'm sure you won't wreck your house with the water based products. Don't ever wash any plaster-like product into the drain pipes unless you have a crush on the plumber! Have a water bucket and sponge ready because if you're like me, you'll get it on you and several other places it doesn't belong. Rosalind in Houston, TX |
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