Getting a book published: She should buy, or check out from the library, the latest edition of the Writers' Digest Writers Market book. Look under the 'book publishers-crafts' section. Read the guidelines, payment rates, etc. and then submit her material to the ones she thinks are the best bets. The book also has interesting articles. (Make sure she doesn't pick up the edition for *fiction* markets, though.)

Molly

Getting a Book Published: If you are publishing the book in the US, submit it to either (not more than one at a time) Scott Publishing (Miniature Collector) or Kalmbach Publishing (Dollhouse Miniatures). In the UK, I would try The Guild of Master Craftsmen (Dollhouse Magazine).

Tom Berkner

Pattern/Idea Books: regarding the books of designs that someone mentioned (as a source for Chinese designs) - these books are produced by Dover http://store.doverpublications.com/
go here for the craft section: http://store.doverpublications.com/by-subject-crafts.html and here for quick access to all the design books: http://store.doverpublications.com/by-subject-art.html
These books contain copyright free clip art, lettering, designs, etc., and mostnow come with the CD. They are very reasonably priced, and an invaluable source of designs for any and every purpose. I have several myself.

Graceanne

Kit Reviews: Concerning the various advice given concerning various kit companies. You cannot make a good judgment between the two basic types of kits unless you understand the principles of each kind. The kits that I lump into the "sweat equity" kits include the die-cut kits such as Greenleaf, Duracraft, Corona, etc. These kits are a lot less expensive but require a lot of work to make them as beautiful as you desire. What you saved in cost you will put into the "sweat equity" it takes to build them but they also generally include the ability to make the details such as windows. These kits can be made into houses as beautiful (or better) than the picture on the box. It will take longer to make the shell and you will probably pick up a few splinters. I have built houses from all of them and will continue to do so when I find a house I like. I will recognize that I shall have to work a bit harder to make it into a "silk purse." Who ever said it was easy?

The "Good" kits such as Real Good Toys have, in the past, been made with 3/8" plywood and make assembly and fitting of features such as windows easier. They are generally much more expensive, but are more quickly turned into a desirable house. I have built one of their MDF material kits and the jury is still out on that since it didn't seem to save any money. The greatest advantage I see, other than the lessened building difficulty, is the fact that the thicker walls accept the many pins involved in electrical wiring. They are all good. You just must realize the cost/effort ratio when you buy the kit. My suggestion is to select the house you will fall in love with and get that kit. My major dollhouse, that is kept here at home, is the Beaumont by Greenleaf. My lighthouse is by Real Good Toys. Go for it with the house you love,

Dave Brazelton

Doing searches on the web: Searching the web for unusual items can be very rewarding. There are many search engines, and each has its advantages and its biases. However, there are also search engines that search the other search engines, so you get it all in one deal. For years I used www.dogpile.com as my search engine, until I read of google. Yes, google. To get to google click on http://www.google.com and there you are. What I like about google is it seems to sense which 15th century looms I am interested in, in order yet, or what companies are best at helping order a wheelchair, etc. Google is highly rated by the computer magazines that I read, and I think I first learned of it here, not sure. So, when you have a question about something, try google and see what happens. Any subject, any time.

Barb Jones

Scanner: For an excellent scanning tutorial go to:

http://www.scantips.com/

Barbara B.

SPLATTER PAINTING: I use the splatter method with red primer to give effects of rust on items. I find I get my best splatter shapes by sweep spraying it from at least two or three feet away. And as you said, just a spritz at that. It is very easy to over (do) spray it. Best suggestion is to practice on some thing like a paper cup until you get the feel of it. I also use a turntable in my spray booth ( a closet with a vent fan in it) so I can rotate the items being painted with out touching them.

Bill Hudson, Eugene, Oregon

PayPal Customer Service: Buried in the site is a toll free number which I have used and got helpful live people. 1-888 221-1161

Carol

Rochester, NY: Don't go to Rochester without checking the Strong Museum Very nice dollhouse collection plus extensive 19th century home furnishings and equipment. Website is http://www.strongmuseum.org Phone 716-263-2700 Now since last night I have checked the web site and find almost NO mention of miniatures. It's maybe 8 years since I was there, so please phone ahead and make sure they still have the dollhouses. Margaret Strong was the only child of a wealthy Rochester family. She was taken annually to Europe, with the Nanny to care for her. Each day they went shopping and the Nanny told her she could shop until this little bitty bag was full....hence the love for miniatures. As an adult she branched out into other collections. At her death, she left the collections to the city, along with funds to build the museum. That was maybe 10 years ago. The "surplus" miniatures were auctioned off and the best kept for the museum. I certainly hope they are still there in spite of no mention on the web site.

Ginger in PA

Mini Bow-Maker: I recently ordered a miniature bow maker from Cotton Ridge Designs (http://www.cottonridge.com/ - click on shopping, then scroll down to click on the tools & supplies link). They shipped it out *very* quickly and I was delighted with their service. I haven't yet tried to make bows with the tool, but it looks like what you need. (They also carry Syd's Tool for Fimo, the one mentioned in the Petite Eats & Mini Treats booklet.) I imagine other vendors carry this, and you could probably make your own if you want. I was happy to just order and go.

Alix in San Francisco

Russian Translation: http://www.translate.ru is the same site I used to translate a "Welcome to our Home" letter and "House Rules" listing for Olga. It is a very easy to use site. The only limitation is the length of an article it will translate as it is a demo. I just broke my rather long letter down into pieces, and it managed it fine. I then sent the letter to a Russian lady here locally to check, and she only found a couple of minor problems that would not affect understanding. I'm planning on using this site to translate our daily schedule to Olga each morning so she'll know what to expect -- such as today you have a dentist appointment, etc. I highly recommend the site. The countdown begins, Olga will be here in 23 days!

Michelle in South Carolina

Paint Pens: While in my local CVS (drugstore) the other day, I found a new product by Elmers(the glue company). They are called "3D washable Paint Pens" and come in 8 colors. They are essentially pen-shaped tubes of paint, which you squeeze and paint squirts out. However, they have fairly thin tips, which makes them useful for mini work. I used them to decorate some plates, but I think they might also have applications in food (for "dollops" of frosting, etc), or anywhere else you want a slightly raised surface. They are probably available in most craft stores.

Celeste in Boston

Shellac: Min-Wax is not shellac. Shellac is a natural product made from little bugs (don't laugh). Minwax is a plastic product that does not give you any thing like a shellac finish. If you want shellac try Constantine's at 1-800-223-8087. They will send you a catalog, too, if you ask.

Part number for a pint, clear SH308; Amber SH708. my catalog is a couple of years old but the price then was $5.45 for a pint. There are also other types of shellac in the catalog. Lots of other great stuff too.

Bill Hudson

Shellac: When the person at Home Depot said polyurethane is the same as shellac he probably meant that you can use it interchangeably with shellac. This may be true in most home improvement but it is not true in wood finishing. Think of it as using molasses to substitute for honey. They are both sweeteners but you won't get the same result. You can purchase amber shellac from any good woodworking catalog in dry form and mix it with denatured alcohol (ethanol). http://shop.woodcraft.com and search for shellac. You can also buy white (clear) shellac at a good paint or hardware store.

Pete Boorum

Flower Film: I am not familiar with the product being discussed for a film over wire for flower-making. But I just watched the Mindstorm video Patricia's Garden and what she's doing sounds very much like what these folks are looking for. She uses gold wire to form petals and leaves and just paints them with Sobo glue. Then she mixes a little acrylic paint with more Sobo and paints the clear, dried film formed by the glue.

Linda in Leroy

Victory Gardens: In the August 1990 Nutshell News Joann Swanson did a Kitchen garden, the project was very nice. I also think i remember a Victory garden in the old Miniature Showcase magazine. In NN Joann pointed out that the gardens would vary from area to area depending on what would grow where you were.

Joanne in Beavercreek Oregon

Thatched roofing: Patty asked for some assistance in constructing a thatched roof in 1-inch scale. I have never seen this done in miniature, but actual thatched roofs are amazing! This site should give you a start on your project: http://www.thatching.com/at.html Beth's Aunt and Uncle live in Klaswaal, not far out of Rotterdam. We were visiting there this Spring with them. He mentioned that he was considering a thatched roof for his barn. I asked him, Does anyone still do that? He said, "oh, yes- but the workmen that know the process are hard to find. And besides, it is a little expensive. About 250,000 guilder" That's for a barn roof! I'm sure that a thatched roof done to scale in miniature will be spectacular, Good luck with your project!

Brian

Cute Toys: I discovered the instructions for making 5 cute little toys on Alison Fleming's site Pipistrelle Miniatures 2001: http://www.pipmin.fsnet.co.uk/projectspg.html They're fairly simple to make and use items which most of us already have lying around. You might want to take a peek.

Karen from PA

lead tester kit: When I was making porcelain dolls and ordering supplies from a ceramic company I bought a lead tester kit. It was just a liquid that would change color when placed on the object if it had lead in the glaze or contained lead. I wanted to use it on old dishes to see if they might leach out lead when acidic foods were put in them. I also had bought a number of old china paints and wanted to know which ones contained lead. Might be useful if you have some mini items you are not sure about and are planning to give them to a young child. http://www.flash.net/~shriver/hazkits.htm has an inexpensive lead tester kit.

Jean Day

Lead Web Sites:
http://www.acnem.org/journal/15-2_december_1996/skin_absorption_of_lead.htm

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/c1-98112.html

http://www.ecy.wa.gov/programs/hwtr/demodebris/pages2/leadsummary.html

http://www.health.state.mn.us/divs/eh/lead/homes/downwall.html

http://www.osha-slc.gov/SLTC/lead/

http://www.aafp.org/afp/980215ap/stauding.html

http://www.info.gov.hk/dh/useful/ltod/fs_lead.htm

In summary, avoid the use of lead, and if you must handle or work on older lead items, be sure to practice safe housekeeping/hand washing etc. Especially avoid grinding or mechanical sanding! We don't want people to become paranoid, but at the same time not become complacent, just educated as to the dangers and taking extra precautions.

Randall