Witch's cottage: I just finished "Witch Hazel's",a wonderful establishment built in Froggy Bottom Swamp. I used sheet Styrofoam for the base. It can be carved, sanded, and coated with spackle or plaster. I use plain old Elmer's glue and toothpicks to hold my basic rock designs together until the glue dries. Test other glues before you use them, many glues will eat the Styrofoam. Then the rocks are basecoated with either plaster or spackle. I like wattle and daub myself, but did my structure in a stucco style. The swamp water was made with 50 Year Clear Silicone, although I usually use Envirotek . A word of caution using Styrofoam. If you are using an electric Styrofoam cutter, the fumes emitted are poisonous. The same would go for using a heat gun. I use both tools, but always make sure I have plenty of ventilation. Most people who know me don't think I do though ;-)- "Brain damage already".

Shaun

Ceiling tiles: I used to do trains, and ceiling tiles are great- you can get a super effect of rock striations by stacking the tiles unevenly and then use a wire brush on the edges. But wear a paint mask! The dust from those things can kill ya.

Linda in NC

Insulating spray foam: Rocks: I have used the foam insulation product that DAP puts out to seal cracks, gaps and openings in your home. It is easy to use and is paintable. I spread aluminum foil on my table and sprayed out very small amounts of the foam (it expands ) on the foil and let dry. You can build on a piece by spraying irregular areas of foam on the small pieces you made the day before. You can also sand, cut, beat with a mallet or use whatever you think of to reshape once it is set up. It is flammable so do not try to use heat on it. This method has worked for my son on train scenes that he has built in the past. I have also used it to make boulders for fairies to sit on.

Dottie (Florida)

Flammability of Great Stuff: Since I received a number of private requests asking if Great Stuff was flammable in both it's wet and dry stage, I'll answer it through the digest. It's only flammable during it's wet stage. And, sorry, but for those of you who asked, no, I'd rather not recount as to how I found out it was flammable. Suffice it to say, I read every word on everything now. And it is marked on the can that it's flammable.

Joy Perkins

GREAT STUFF: According to a construction owner, GREAT STUFF, shouldn't be sprayed around ANY electrical outlets. He told me it was from his own experience!

He also said that the sun's rays can break it down very fast. Now I would hate to see my friends spend so much time creating their great masterpieces only to find it dust when they get up in the morning (after the sunrise). It may take awhile for this to happen, but wouldn't you rather be remembered for more than the dust around the dh?

Lisa Lynn

Hobbit Hall, cave, natural hole habitat: I've made a wood-look tunnel/cave thing by using fine mesh wire (1/4 inch hardware cloth)and fashioning it into an irregular tunnel, then laying wet newspaper over it with clumps of damp tissue for "warts," then spraying it with left over Xmas tree flocking. After Xmas sales are wonderful! I've also used that expanding foam sealer that comes in an aerosol can. As it puffs, toss dirt on it. After it cures, do the inside and toss in wood chips, patting them down with very wet hands (dip often). When hard, carve or sand into neat shapes and texture. This stuff can be dangerous - it gets hot and smells bad and sticks terribly until cured. Be Very Careful! Results are Outstanding!

Lead: I have been reading through all of these posts about using lead for the stained glass windows and I am somewhat concerned if this is real lead you are using. I hope you ladies are using gloves to handle the lead and are keeping it where children can't get hold of it. I was really concerned when someone mentioned some sort of lead in a wine bottle cap. Lead can be very toxic, especially to little ones. There have even been articles in some of the medical journals about using leaded crystal over a period of years. Wine is said to leach the lead out of the crystal. I don't want to sound like an alarmist or spoilsport, and I know you are using minimal amounts, but if you work with it frequently, wearing gloves is a wise precaution. Also, make sure that no scraps or bits and pieces are where children or animals can get to them. It takes much less exposure for a small child or small animal to develop problems.

Dolly

Ripping Lumber: Here are some safety rules associated with this practice.

First, and most important, NEVER put your hand beyond the center of the blade. If the strip kicks back it can push an unsuspecting finger into danger. ALWAYS use a push stick when cutting thin strips.

Lower the blade so that it is no more than 1/16 inch above the work. Learn to rip pushing with your right hand only. You are less likely to twist the wood with your left hand causing binding and kick back.

After you turn the saw off make sure the blade has come to a complete stop before reaching toward the blade to pick up your work or remove scrap.

Pete

Cutting Dowels in Half: A band saw is less dangerous FOR THIS CUT. If you do still want to cut the dowel in half, get a scrap piece of straight wood and temporarily glue the dowel to the scrap. Hot glue is good for this. This way there is something to keep the dowel from twisting, which is the dangerous part. Use push sticks to keep your fingers away from the blade. Miniatures are hard to make without fingers. While I don't believe power tools in general are particularly dangerous, you do need a healthy respect for them. It is just that I think cutting a dowel in half on a table saw is a dangerous cut for someone without experience.

Dean Jenson

Baking Sheets: What I am using for fine metal for cookie sheets etc., is the sheet metal that our newspaper uses for the small weekly papers they print up. They charged me 10 cents a piece. I think I got 10. Prices will vary! Not the large sheets they use for full size papers. Just the small ones. These are about 2' by 3' and about 1/32 thick. The printed side, where the ink was used, usually has some nice news/gossip/etc about the town that is running this newspaper. But the other side is shiny and new! Any kind of scissors (not the Ginghers) will cut it and any type of pliers will bend it. Be careful though, the cut edge is very sharp. One sheet will do many mini projects! You will have plenty. I use them for lots of things not just bakeware. Just go the newspaper place and ask for the small metal sheets. Unless of course your newspaper recycles everything before you can get your hands on it. You might have to ask in advance for them to save you a couple.

Marcie

Redoing Resin Figurines: I simply snapped off the wings. I also removed all the other little things attached to the fairy (bucket with frog you will see in my next months DM project). To do this, I used a razor saw in combination with a Dremel Moto Tool and assorted attachments. And then touched up any bare spots with acrylic paint. Remember to use a good protective mask when re-doing resin pieces, and work in a well ventilated area...I usually do this job outdoors.

Joann Swanson

Leaded Glass: The suggestion to use golf lead tape does work, but because it's real lead, if you're doing a dollhouse that children will be using you could use Pilot or Permawriter Silver Microtip pens found in office supply stores to do the lead. These brands of pens can be purchased with micro fine tips, are permanent after dry, and will give a slightly raised edge so you can "paint" between the leading or even "frost" or make mini "chipped glass" look designs. When we originally built the Oakmont, the custom dollhouse we designed for the grand daughters, we put up a special page for dollhouse stained glass tips at this URL:

http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Hills/8157/sghelp.htm

The pictures of the stained glass windows can be seen in our "construction journal" and the finished "tour the Oakmont" sections from the main dollhouse website.

Wilma Kinder

DO NOT Microwave Fimo: We tried microwaving Fimo at a club meeting and it gassed us out of the house. VERY dangerous. Stick to the toaster oven or regular oven with Fimo.

Ruth, Masterpieces in Miniature

Don't Microwave Polymer Clay: Try not to burn your clay when firing it; fumes from burnt clay are toxic and should be avoided. Invest in an oven thermometer and a timer, and then use them! Follow the package instructions to the letter and you'll have no problem. Should you accidentally burn your clay, do not inhale the fumes; open a window and leave for 20 minutes or so until the fumes have dissipated. If you use a convection oven, reduce the temperature 10 to 20 degrees to compensate for the faster cooking time.

Cindy

Terrariums: For terrariums/conservatories,etc; a company called Roman Inc. has a nice one. They have a web site that could help you find a local dealer of their products. The web site is www.roman.com/Roman imports Fontaninni. They are also a major gift and Christmas supplier. Through my business I could special order these.

Deborah

Food processors - I use a small inexpensive food processor. It is a Betty Crocker Mini Chopper and if I remember right was about $15. He is right, tho, NEVER USE FOR FOOD AGAIN. I use the food processor to start blending colors and then transfer to the pasta machine. The processor will warm the Fimo which helps the softening process. I always shave small pieces into the processor before I start it. Don't make it work TOO hard with great big chunks. That would probably burn it out quickly. I have been using this one for about 8 or 10 years and still have no problems. I do use Fimo softener and then add the older colors to it. If you try to just use older drier Fimo by itself you will have zillions of little crumbs and it won't hold together. Remember to do small amounts at a time and as each batch is taken out - stick in a plastic bag and sit on it until you have it all blended. This will keep it warm and ready for the Pasta Machine.

Jane King in Indy

Warming FIMO: Just wanted to give everyone a little hint about using the rice bags. Be careful when you put them in the microwave. I had one that a friend had purchased for me at a department store. One time I set the microwave on 4 minutes and the tube, where it was touching itself where I had to bend it to get it to fit, not only scorched but actually burned through in several places. It was ruined, of course, and I thought I would never get the smell out of the microwave.

Ann Anderson

Fimo: Everything I've ever read or seen about working with Fimo emphasizes that a pasta maker, chopper, blender, etc. that is used with Fimo or any poly clay product should never again be used in the preparation of food. In fact, there are crafters that have a toaster oven used only for baking Fimo, etc.

Jan

POWER TOOLS: The 1st thing to know is that tools are not gender oriented, however, sometimes we are! Don't let this hold you back from a dream!

The 2nd thing to realize, and you already do, is that there is enough power in those tools to cause some REAL damage! Respect them! Congratulations, you have mastered step one!

3rd in this series is too start small, say a drill or power screwdriver of some kind. Rechargeable tools, which may cost a little more but are worth it, allow you to not fight with the cord and outlet, which usually is too far beyond the project needing the work! Don't forget to pick up the accessories kit(if not included) that have different sizes of attachments. Go around your house and check for loose screws, (these will not be found in your head!), a picture that needs hung, curtain rods that need tightened, etc......

That leads to the 4th step.Try a simple project for your home. Like maybe, a small shelf that the lumber yard could cut the wood you to the size you need and you would assemble.

5. After your newly discovered talent has raised your confidence level a few notches, you might try to visit a store to get some simple building books, sawhorses, tables (which you will use over and over again), planter boxes and benches come to mind.

6. Visit a store that sells power tools and ask for help in deciding what tools you would like to use next. Maybe a router(with bits), or a small bandsaw (don't forget the x-tra blades, cause you will break a few!). Bandsawing is has a lot in common with a sewing machine in the way you maneuver the wood/ fabric. A bandsaw can also be used a WHOLE lot in miniature making! Don't let the salesperson talk you into the top of the line model for professionals(not yet anyway), tell him you will be back for those in the near future. Sears in USA have some great and simple equipment to offer.

I think at this time, your mind will start clicking on how you can do things both in full scale and miniature.

Lisa, Martinsville Indiana

Cutting Plexiglass: I personally feel sawing is not a good option, unless trying to cut curved line. I also feel cutting it on a table saw is too dangerous for the amateur. It has a nasty habit of kickback, and I have some holes in the wall to prove it. Main problem is that the heat of the blade, either table or jig, melts the plastic. Best solution is to get a knife especially for scoring Plexiglass from a hardware store. It has sort of a hook-shaped blade, so as you draw in towards you, it will score the Plexiglass. Depending on your strength, thickness, etc., it may take as few as 2 or 3 passes, or maybe up to 10 or more to get a good score. Then place the score line on edge of SHARP edged table and snap the Plexiglass. Until you get the hang of it, you will probably ruin a few pieces. I use a steel ruler as a guide and clamp it to the Plexiglass so the knife doesn't wander off the first score. Most glass stores will cut it for you, but check around, as there are wide variations in what they charge. In my small town glass shop, the cost for the Plexiglass and their cuts were dirt cheap, cheaper than just buying Plexiglass at home supply stores. Instead of Plexiglass, you might also consider polycarbonate - Lexon is one brand name. It is less likely to scratch and a little stronger, although for the front of a room box, extra strength isn't a factor.

Dean Jenson