Dremel Safety: When working with your Dremel, to be sure to wear "safety glasses" of some sort. Safety goggles are best--keep them with the tool, but if you normally wear full glasses (as many of us must), that is almost as good (though sides of eyes are unprotected from flying shrapnel). I know it is inconvenient, but isn't an unexpected eye injury worse? Think of the mini supplies you could buy, or the time you could spend reading SS, when you are tempted just this once to skip the eye wear.

Xmas Carol

Salvaging Slate Tiles: When salvaging slate tiles from old houses, BE SURE THEY ARE REALLY SLATE. There was some faux slate, usually used for siding in the 30s that is really a manufactured compound rich in asbestos. I know they used fancy machines and big dollar people to strip the stuff off of my boyhood home in Cleveland.

Mel in Vegas

Asbestos in building components: Asbestos siding was grained to look like shingles most times, asbestos roof shingles look very much like slate, asbestos floor tiles were one of the first things outlawed when asbestos became a health issue and if you ever take ceramic tile off the walls of a 50s home you will find that the mastic had asbestos fibers in it?! Folks, be careful. I finally painted the mastic (new tile didn't go quite as high as the old) and replaced the front board of the bathroom sink because nothing would dissolve that stuff and I even tried a hoof rasp to remove it before we found out it was an asbestos based product ! I had a cousin in TN in the building trades who lost his life to asbestos.

Mary Lou Prechtel of Middleburg Hts., OH

Power Tool Safety: The most important thing to keep in mind is safety, safety, safety. I believe in overkill to prevent accidents. Use a face shield whenever working with saws or any tool that can kick back (or that can cause wood to kick, split, or slip in any way.) Use clamps, push sticks, feather boards, etc. to keep your fingers away from blades. Sometimes it seems it would be okay to just do one quick cut, but all it takes is one quick accident. Even using protection, be sure to also be conscious of where your fingers are, and where the cord on your tool is located. I move my miter saw around and I want to be sure the cord hasn't crossed under the blade when I wasn't looking. Keep your feet firmly planted and slightly apart for balance, and keep your body out of the line of 'fire' if the wood should kick back. One of the most dangerous tools I use is a mini chain saw that works on an angle grinder. It is a wonderful sculpture tool, but I wear a leather apron, leather gloves, and I use a full face shield. I also use a dust mask when working with woods because many woods are toxic if the sawdust is breathed. These are just common sense rules, but you would be surprised at how many men are missing fingers because they don't take the extra precautions. I hope this does not discourage any would be DIYers, the tools are really wonderful and lots of fun - plus you have a real sense of satisfaction when you make something from start to finish.

Jacqui in Hilo, HI

DIAMOND DUST is crushed glass so be careful when you are using it that you don't get it in your eyes or imbedded in your hands, etc.

Marsha Hedrick

Sealing Printable Wallpaper: Marker Fix fixative spray for marker drawings-stops color bleed VAPOR HARMFUL---use outside and leave paper there until fumes dissipate. I know you will want to rush back in the house to use it. DON'T. When dry, spray the reverse side, leave outside until you almost forget it is there.

Laurie Sisson

Child-Proofing Your Dollhouse: I asked this question on SS when my son was about 4 months old-- there were a lot of great ideas that made it into the Small Stuff Archives. Here's what I did: I first glued everything inside the dh down using Aleene's Stick-It-Over & Over Glue, which is a temporary bond that won't harm your minis, dries clear, and I just love it! This was to keep things from either getting knocked over and broken by a wobbly-walker, or falling out and being eaten or choked on. I also put Plexiglas on the back so he wouldn't reach in. I measured the opening and then went to Home Depot where they cut the Plexiglas for me and even let me have the scraps. So far, the combination has been working great. Whatever you do, make sure that anything small enough to fit inside a toilet paper roll is inaccessible to small kids (under 3) who might choke on them.

Yesterday was my son's First Birthday Party, and with all the kids in the house I noticed even the older kids are more respectful of the dollhouse now that it's got the Plexiglas. My niece (almost 3) gave the other little girls a guided tour-- not even asking to remove the Plexiglas, and my nephews (10 yrs and 8 yr old twins) only asked politely if they could flip the electricity switch to show the lights to some guests.

Michelle Fox

Childproofing a Dollhouse: My husband "catproofed" my miniature antiques shop with a sheet of plexiglass, but rather than making doors, he made a single sliding sheet. He nailed two grooved pieces of wood at the top and bottom of the back and this way the sheet slides out horizontally and is completely removable and also does a bang-up job of keeping the dust out. You could do the same thing on your dollhouse below the attic but make it even harder for your son to move by doing this vertically; i.e., putting a grooved piece of wood on the bottom and the sides and sliding it down from the top. You could protect the attic area by more conventional means, perhaps by attaching a plexiglass sheet with a hinge so it lifts up. You should be able to find plexiglass sheets in various sizes at your local hardware store.

Bev Gallerani

Babies and Dollhouses: You might feel better to temporarily put away the most fragile and expensive items. An acrylic shield over the open side would protect everything inside from dust. Another thought is to get or make a small, sturdy dollhouse with some sturdy furniture for your son, and if he shows a curiosity about yours, explain patiently that it is Mommy's toy, and this one is his!

Janet

Childproofing a Dollhouse: I had the same problem when my daughter was an infant but I never thought of enclosing my scenes in any way. Looking at the house became a wonderful time we had together and she learned from a very early age that she was not to touch without momma being there. I made a point of always saying yes whenever she asked so it wouldn't become a temptation when I wasn't looking. I showed her how to gently touch and be VERY CAREFUL!!! To secure pieces that you don't want to move use sticky tack. It's very similar to silly putty. You can find it in the stationary section or in the picture hook sections of most stores. I know Michael’s carries it and so does Target, Ace, and if you have any by you Meijers.

The best part of allowing my daughter to look at the house is that it has put the mini bug in her. Now that she is five, we sit down and do projects together. She has her own dollhouse that she is decorating. I have purchased some the inexpensive-dime store variety- press board furniture. After I punch it out, she sands it then paints it MANY MULTI COLORS!!! When done she gets to put it in HER HOUSE!!! I get to work on my projects, while still being able to have some good quality time with my daughter. I hope that the bug stays with her and when she becomes a rebellious teen (which I'm sure she will) we will still have this to do together!!

Jean Mumma

Childproofing: We used to put our Christmas tree in the play pen when our daughters were toddlers, I don't know why it wouldn't work for a doll house. However when my grand daughters were about two, they were taught to look with their eyes not their fingers. They would hold their hands behind their backs and peer in the windows. The rule for visiting children has always been hands behind your back and look with your eyes not your fingers. The only damage I've ever had was from the hands of an adult who tired to open a door the wrong way.

Patricia

Childproof Dollhouse: It might be easier to encase the entire dollhouse by making a box of Plexiglas. You could then set the entire house and box on a piece of fibre board (or whatever you choose) slightly larger than the size of the house and box. Add some ready made legs (sold at Home Depot or other lumber stores) and you will have a childproof and decorative addition to your room.

Marilyn

Baby Proof: I had twins and found that putting my dollhouse, Christmas tree, etc. in the PLAYPEN and letting the kids loose had the best protection LOL :) Now that I have 4 yr and 9 month old grandbabies I find plexiglass shields allow them to play and me to relax. And I always know their favorites by the handprints :)

Sue Thwaite

Keeping Dust, Hands and Cats Out: Truly the sliding plexiglass tracks work for the Lady Kathleen. I've done it for this house before. The one story addition will need a separate piece to slide on its own tracks. If you didn't, read my earlier post about making (or buying) the U shaped tracks.

Fannye

As for dust, my husband has built all my dollhouses (12) and since we have cats, each house has a back. Ergo no dust (or very little).

Patricia

Snow: The idea of caulking for snow seems most satisfying, however instead of dusting it with powder which would seem to make it look fairly dull and lifeless, I would suggest using diamond dust. This is actually a crushed glass or sometimes very thin and glittery pieces of plastic. Snow, being frozen water, reflects light and sparkles. Diamond dust, being small fragments of glass, does the same thing and looks very realistic. Always handle it with care since it is glass, but once it is attached to the project it would no longer present any danger and it looks very sparkly and snow like.

Marsha Hedrick

Preparing Cast Metal for Painting: When casting (metal or resin,) mold release is quite often used as it allows the parts to be more easily removed from the mold and, more importantly, it increases the life of the mold. Since this is designed to prevent things from sticking, it is very important to remove all traces of it from the piece before painting. Being designed to prevent sticking, it also does not adhere well to the part, so it is easy to remove. Just about any method you think of will work. Soaking in degreasers (vinegar, TSP, Caustic Soda), or washing with detergent or soap, or rinsing with paint thinners (mineral spirits, alcohol, acetone), or tumbling with walnut shells (ground ones, not whole), or just water and a stiff brush (like a toothbrush or vegetable brush). Some of these methods have terrible fumes, so I would avoid them.

Tom

Drilling Glass: To drill glass you do need a special drill bit -a diamond bit - ask at your stained glass shop. It also helps HEAPS to make an X out of masking tape over the area you want the hole drilled. It prevents the glass front splintering into tiny, weeny slivers and, more importantly, stops the drill bit from skittering around before finding purchase in the glass - avoids any scratching if the bit slides. Also take it slowly and you should be fine. Just as a precautionary measure - wear eye protection just in case you get carried away and shatter the object - had a friend who got glass in her eye whilst doing stained glass windows - she semi-detached a flap of eyeball which required immediate surgery - YUCK!! She never did tell me if you can see what is happening during eye surgery or whether, being out like a light, you didn't know what was going on!

Trace

Drilling Holes in Glass: Here's the salient info from Dremel's 1981 publication, Compact Power Tools: Wear eye protection (maybe even face protection), use a tungsten carbide drill, lubricate with water and touch the bit down on the glass intermittently, to help keep it cool. Don't use much pressure. If the glass is thick, the author recommends also making a collar of clay around the spot where you will drill, and keeping this filled with water.

When you barely break into the surface on one side, turn the glass over and drill from the reverse. Repeat process, continuing to avoid overheating, until you break clear through.

Tungsten carbide drills are harder than the ones you may use for wood, and a bit more expensive. Personally, I'd give myself some practice glass to experiment on. Probably this is one of those initially intimidating operations that eventually seems pretty routine, though finicky. Good luck!

Mary (Oregon)

Instant-Gardening: I have been gardening half my life and the first thing you learn about gardening is how to prepare the soil so I did the same in my miniature garden. First, I cut a piece of cardboard in the size I wanted for a border. Then I cut a same sized piece of the green foam which is used to make dried flower arrangements. The green foam can also be used wet. Caution! Wash your hands after cutting the green foam and please don't rub your eyes, as it is crumbly stuff and rather sharp. I put Tacky glue or just simple white hobby glue on the foam and spread out the "topsoil", not too much at the same time as glue dries quickly. I use the dust of dried tea bags for this, mixed with green stuff from the model railways. If you don't have that, just grind Deco-moss (comes in different shades of green) in a cheese-grater and spread it all out. If wanted, put the rocks in place. Place a shrub or a topiary-shrub in the border. Now starts the fun bit - the planting!! In advance, you have already collected tiny dried flowers, tiny silk flowers and the very talented folks have made their own! Plant all this in your border like you would do it in real life: matching colors, putting the high plants in the back of the border. There is no other rule other than your own taste! For more green, use little pieces of moss here and there, or make some green plants such as hostas (the easiest ones)or use the little green plastic leafed stuff you see at delicatessen-shops! Forgot to mention something important: the cardboard and the green foam must be glued together. The cardboard gives support to the foam! Of course a piece of trilex/balsa can also be used, but I realized that everybody has cardboard at home and it is cheap and easy to cut.

Atie Jonker