Popcorn Can room: I imagine that many readers will send this same information to the person who wants to know how to prepare the metal "walls" in her popcorn tin. If so, it won't hurt my feelings if you don't print it. Miniaturists have found that they can put scenes in or on just about anything. I see metal boxes and cans used often. Most don't seem to use the actual container for the walls so I'm not telling you how to paint the tin. Instead, I'm suggesting that you just use the popcorn tin to "house" your project instead of trying to paint and decorate the inside of a can. When I do something like that, I make a "box" with walls and a floor out of foam-core or some other thin, lightweight material which, when finished, will slide down into the can! That way I can make flat walls instead of rounded walls. Of course you can use more than 4 walls and if you use enough, it will be rounded. That makes it much easier to paint or wallpaper.

This way, you could even cut out a door or a window on a wall leaving a little bit of room behind it for yet another scene. Some people (who are way more clever than I am, put lights and trees branches, etc. in these little nooks and crannies.)

I put in a "foundation" of little chunks of cardboard, foam or balsa wood to set the box down on, so that the floor is level with the bottom of the section I have cut out to view the scene and when the whole thing is finished I lower it down onto the foundation. Then all I have to do is make sure the cut edges of the tin are trimmed and voila!, I have a room in a can. This is the same thing you would do if you wanted to put a scene into a gift bag or anything else where the actual sides of the "box" would be hard to work with.

Mary Lou in Florida

1/8" Plywood Edges: As for those naughty Greenleaf projects and sealing the window edges, etc., I share this from Kate who used to own a local mini shop ....... quit sanding that nasty wood. You'll just make it worse. Pick off the worst of the splinters, sand a bit and then, using your finger fill in the holes with regular Elmer's glue, then sand off the excess glue. Works great.

Paula

SW Adobe: I've got some burning questions- someone gave me a very simply built dollhouse that was hand made. The door and window openings are not cut straight, nor are they sizes I could ever buy frames or doors for. I've been wanting to do a Spanish style Adobe/California hacienda and thought this would be a good way of working around the problem of the door and window openings. Any suggestions on what I should use for the adobe? I was thinking wall joint compound-but I'm afraid it might make the whole structure too heavy and I don't think it was built well enough to stand the weight (it's just nailed together with finishing nails). Someone suggested paper clay. It's very expensive and I'd have to use a lot-the house is two story and has six rooms-so this isn't an option. Also, what should I use for the windows? I'd like something rustic-like using twigs to look like log frames, but I'm not sure how I would affix window panes etc-plus, I don't think this is very historically accurate. Another funny thing-the interior door ways are only three inches high! Yet, some of the windows are three inches wide by four and half inches tall! One room (that I hope to make the kitchen) has five windows and a door (three inches tall) in the middle of the interior wall-leaving me no wall space for a stove, etc.! I know my trusty Dremel will work just fine converting those doors to the right height-but how do I take away windows? Somehow, I just can't give up this poor little house, but do you think it's more trouble than it's worth? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. I've been saving the house for about three years in the garage-and my husband always eyes it whenever we talk about reducing our load.

Monika

SW Adobe: You're very, very close! In the Southwest (and Sonora) wood is scarce and cactus ribs were often used instead. Pale gray twigs could be used for window frames and tacked together for shutters. Window glass was expensive and a Spanish or Territorial style home would probably not have had anything in the windows. I expect fellow Arizonan Bonnie Gibson will be able to give you lots of tips for your house.

Molly/StormBorn

SW Adobe: it is true that your trusty Dremel will help you make the doors the size you need them to be. You can also take pieces of wood the right size to glue into some of the extra windows in the kitchen before you stucco the exterior. The joint compound works very well as stucco, too. If you want a little rougher finish, add some sand to the joint compound or glue some on after you have stuccoed. A little care should give you a wonderful dollhouse in the style you are looking for.

Dottie in Tucson

SW Adobe: Do you want this house to look realistic, or is a southwest fantasy look ok? That's inexpensive, easy, and not as heavy as spackle. Cut your doors to the right size, fill the extra windows with wood blanks "mortared" into place with wood filler (tape inside to hold till dry, then fill from inside), smooth out, and dry. Cover the roof and anything else you don't want in adobe finish with masking tape. Sand and wipe down the walls, then apply spray faux granite finish paint in a tan or beige tone. Instead of using the recommended clear gloss acrylic top coat to fix the spray paint, use a clear matte acrylic. It looks like stucco or adobe. I use this a lot to rehab cheap kits. It's very attractive, although the walls won't have the depth of real adobe. Several brands of this paint are available; WalMart has a cheapie that works well and offers large color choice. One can will cover the exterior of a four to six-room house.

Loretta.Sniarowski

SW Adobe: I don't know just what type Spanish House you are trying to do. If it is something like the southwest adobe type house it easy to build one. Use 1 inch Styrofoam sheets and cut out the walls. Decide where you want your windows etc and then glue it. I used real sautilo tile that is available in scale for 1 inch. Paint the interior white and the outside a sandy color. This may give you some ideas.

Ruth Morey, Corpus Christi

Stucco: I have been reading about stucco and the use of spackle compound. Thought; I recall our house (real size) had stucco on the top 1/2. It was white and had a "grit" to it. Therefore; What about painting the sides of the dh with glue and sprinkle on fine sand. After it all dries, remove any loose sand, then paint white. Seems to me the effect should be the same as if you used spackle. Appears too easy, what am I missing here? If you insist on the full texture of stucco, how about very fine paper pulp then place the sand on. Much less weight.

DrBob...Delray Beach, FL.

Filling in window openings: If you remember that mini projects are only the real world on a small scale - you will answer many of your own questions. A handyman will fill the open area in a home by inserting new reinforced sheet rock. For you the same may be done with Bristol board, a piece of wood the same thickness as your wall, a cut out from foam core, etc. Cut it to fit the opening by holding an index card to the back side of the space, trace the measurements from the right side. Now cut out your pattern being sure to cut on the outside of your line. Now glue your patch in place. You may use household spackle to fill any cracks then prime and sand the wall with gesso. I gave a tip a short while ago about using crumpled tissue for wall treatments.

Becky

new doors and windows: I rebuilt my exe's dollhouse that her father made for her when she was a little girl. He just cut holes in the walls for windows and doors. We glued pieces of wood the same dimensions as each wall to the existing wall, having first marked out new windows and doors where we wanted them, and of the size that would take manufactured ones. We then cut out the new holes in both walls with a jig saw. We filled in the old holes with the same thickness of wood of the original walls and used wood filler for the gaps and sanded smooth before painting. By adding additional pieces of walls you will make them look thicker, just like the old Spanish buildings. As for the "stucco", you might want to try some lightweight spackling compound, used to repair cracks in wallboard. This is available at any paint store, hardware store or Wal-Mart. Try it on some scrap wood first to get the look you want. A one inch putty knife should work OK as an applicator. You can then paint it the color you want.

Spencer

Biltmore Estate: If you want to see how the "other half" used to live, go to http://www.biltmore.com and take a gander. Wow!

Dani

Printers boxes/drawers---I love them! I must have 6. Receiving a printers box is what started me in my love of this hobby! Printers boxes make a wonderful "holding area" to hold those miniatures that don't have a spot in the dollhouse yet. A great place to find them is at antique stores/flea markets.

Nursemini

Books into room boxes: In the 1995 December issue on page 43, there is an example of turning a set of old encyclopedias into a 2 story roombox. Really wonderful, only they don't say how it was done. The backs of the books were stacked and somehow parts were hollowed out for a Christmas scene with windows, doors, and outside displays. The inside covers must have been of a nice paper because they were used for wallpaper inside. I love NNs older projects, this was one of the Christmas in the City displays.

Carol T, NC

cardboard room boxes: To make corrugated cardboard almost as indestructible as wood, try covering it with cloth and white glue. It's not an original trick, but I can't remember where I learned it!

First, get an old bedsheet (or a new piece of muslin) and rip a looong piece about three inches wider than the depth of your box. Spread white glue over the cardboard and smear it around "real good", as they say. Put the pieces face down and just barely touching on the fabric - side-top-side-bottom - and weight them down so they dry flat.

The fabric will be the "inside" of the box. You can bring the fabric along the front edge of the pieces up and glue it to the outside and glue it in place at the same time.

Cut the back for the box and glue it to a piece of fabric an inch or so larger on all four sides, wrapping it around the edges, and weight it down also. (Don't get too clever and put the back on top of the other pieces, or they will get stuck together. Ask me how I know THAT!)

When all the pieces are dry, clip the "loose" fabric on the back at the joints, and glue the final corner together, overlapping the fabric. Put the back on the box, and use the loose fabric to glue the sides and back together, as if you were taping it together.

When this assembly is done, you can cover the outside with fabric to coordinate with your decor, and paper the inside as desired. The combination of cardboard, white glue and cloth is lightweight and VERY sturdy.

Dani, in Bradshaw

Boxes: "I have decided my first project is going to be a room. My question now is (and it is going to sound dumb) what sort of box do you use if you can't make one yourself."

Marylyn, it isn't a dumb question at all. Here are some suggestions:
- Go to any shop that sells cigars, they have wonderful wooden boxes that most places will give you free.
- In the grocery store some places have fruit that come in wooden crates which are various sizes and they can be used as they are or the wood may be recycled and a box made from it.
- Sturdy containers such as Oatmeal boxes may easily be used to house a room.
- Old clock cases are great for room boxes.
- Garage sales are another great source for containers. Look for old flower arrangements that are contained in glass and wooden containers. Old aquariums are great for making conservatories especially if you find an odd shaped one, and they are usually sold very inexpensively. Hurricane lamp glass may be turned on its side and used to house a great holiday scene. Domes from cheese savers or cake plates, may be used with a cork disk as a base. These cork disks may be bought at your local garden nursery or at any K-Mart, Target, etc., they come in many sizes and at a minimal cost. Jewelry boxes can also be found at swap meets or garage sales or thrift shop. Hat boxes, great as well and are sold at craft shops.
- Virtually any container may be utilized for a room box scene. Good luck on your search.

Marilyn, MI

Lauren's Dream Room: I'm going to build a room, about 32"x15" with a 32"x10" patio out the back. This is my dream room in the present, so furniture, style, art from all time periods are available according to my taste. it's to be a two story high room although I don't think I will make the actual ceiling. in the right rear corner, I'm going to build a platform for my Queen Anne Baby Grand Piano in Rosewood (which is my first item I'm going to purchase). I may also get a harp. the platform will be wood, and the main floor (also used for dancing) will be dark green marble, which my dad has plenty left over from a past client! I'm going to have scattered furniture in I think it's a Victorian style, with dark wood and a cream colored silk/satin brocade. I want a triple set of arched French doors along the center of the back wall to go onto the patio, and a curved staircase in the rear left corner which leads up to a mezzanine and a small library overlooking the patio. I'm not really sure how to describe the rest just yet, but there are a few details...such as my polar bear rug in front of the fireplace (in the library) which I have beautiful cream-colored rabbit fur for. Does anyone know how I could make the head? I think I want my sculptures on the patio, and some garden benches along the edges.

I'm building all this with what I would really have if money were no issue (which is why this will take years and years to complete) everything must be the best (I have pretty expensive taste) some things, like the furniture might be cheaper to make myself but I don't' know how or where to get materials. when I come to specific challenges, I can ask more specific questions, but for now I'd like any advice that you can think of (this is also my first project!) oh, yeah and I'm going to have electricity and I don't know anything at all about that. the other thing is if I could get links, names, or something for artisans who do top quality miniatures, that would be very helpful as well. well, this is really long and I'm having trouble getting my thoughts organized, so thanks again for all your help!

Lauren

Book Roomboxes: I have made books into roomboxes thru trial and error (not to mention swearing). If anyone has a different technique, please let us know. I have tried a variety of power tools to cut the pages, without success. Clamp the book with the front cover open and use a craft knife and change the blade often. (Don't worry about the blood, it probably won't show when the roombox is finished.) You can use scissors to cut up the right side of the book. Scroll saws, moto-tools and drills cause the cut edges to be slightly rough. That makes the book appear twice as thick. The good news is you don't have to do a four-sided cut - just two. Do not cut the front inside cover page if paper is attractive. You want to leave the pages intact on the top and side opposite the spine. That will leave a margin of pages that looks like an upside down and backwards "L". There will be no pages showing on the bottom of the book. Slice thru where the binding attaches to the cover. While still clamped apply glue generously to inside cuts of the pages. Force white glue into pages, but not enough for it to show thru exposed parts of pages. For multiple books repeat leaving the back cover of one book and the front cover of one book uncut. Use contact cement to glue books together.

Build a box, I use plywood, to insert in hole where pages were. The end that meets the front cover will be open. The plywood box provides rigidity to your finished book roombox. Cut a hole for window or door in the wood box and in spine of books. Apply paint, wallpaper, flooring, moulding etc in box before inserting box into books. Apply lots of white glue to outsides of wood box, except the bottom. (unless you want to permanently mount the finished project to your worktable). Slide wood box into hole in books, clamp and leave it alone - the longer the better. Apply window moulding. Wallpaper the front inside cover page that you left intact, or your choice of wallpaper, over box opening and cut out opening.

Jackie Aiken

IBEC dollhouses: Some SS subscribers will be aware, through their web site, that IBEC is going out of their dollhouse kit production of the Four, Six and Eight Room kits. By agreement with Dave and Sharon at IBEC Wood Products, Upstairs Downstairs Dollhouses and Miniatures www.upstairs-downstairs.com, Victoria, BC will continue to provide the original design of IBEC four , six and eight room cottages formerly produced by IBEC. These dollhouse shells will be provided through Upstairs Downstairs, and eventually we expect to assume production of the shells for the Cobble Hill and James Bay models as well. The Upstairs Downstairs shells being offered will consist of the same high quality components formerly provided by IBEC but the current solid cedar floors and base will be replaced with good two side 1/2 inch cabinet grade birch plywood. The kits or finished shell will also embrace some improved design changes previously discussed with IBEC, to allow for easier assembly. IBEC Wood Products will continue to make the dollhouse components and will be offering an upgraded component finishing package to complement the shell. In the meantime, Upstairs Downstairs will have available also, all of the components previously offered in the original kits. IBEC's decision to stop producing the shells now affords the opportunity for builders to purchase their dollhouse economically over a period of time, and allow them the added flexibility of changing the exterior finish to other than clapboard siding. We hope that this arrangement will provide for a seamless transition to the continued production of the excellent line of IBEC dollhouses.

Pat Scott

Yogurt cups in minis: i started a scene in a cup. I cut an opening in the side put the cover on and build a scene in it. id say it would be about 1/4 or 1/2 size. I have so many of them I have them tucked all over the house. I agree on the things small.

Claire

Painting on Side of Building: I first find a copy of an old advertisement that I like. Sometimes it is from a reproduction catalog, often an actual package label I have purchased at an antique show. Before applying any medium, I rough the edges of the print with an emery board. I lightly spray my print with a matte fixative. I do not worry about applying an even coat over the entire surface. The more shades there are in the finished product, the more authentic the aging process will appear.

I use Mod Podge (Matt Finish) to make a decal. I like the decal technique more than decoupage for this particular application. In making a decal, we rub away the back of original printed item leaving only the ink on the decal material. This gives a translucent background to our image that will allow the color of the wall to show through the design in some areas. I think this looks more like it was painted on the wall than a decoupage application. Decoupage, unless you are incredibly skilled in cutting out tiny things, hides the side of the building by covering it with the paper your image has been printed on. Any transfer method you are familiar with will work equally well as long as the transfer is not shiny when dry.

Whether the wall of the miniature structure has been painted, bricked or sided, I apply my decal using Mod Podge for the glue. I apply a heavy coat of medium to allow more work time with the decal. If it is a brick structure, it takes time to press the print into the mortar area of each brick. I work from the top to the bottom. This makes it easier when I need to tuck the decal around the overlap of clapboard siding. I work air bubbles out with a small piece of sponge. I do not try to remove all wrinkles and bubbles.

If you do not want your structure to appear old and weathered - simply apply a light coat of Mod Podge to all exterior surfaces to make the highlights the same on all of your exterior walls. If your sign is to be new, take care to smooth it out carefully when you apply the decal.

I take care to brush a little of my medium across the entire side of the building. I also brush some on all other exterior sides of the structure. I do not attempt to be neat. I do not attempt to cover all of the area. I only want to randomly scatter another texture on the exterior finish. When the transfer has dried to the touch, I use a fine grade sanding brick to GENTLY knock off the bubbles and creases. I use the same brick along the entire exterior of the structure, knocking wear into corners, edges off of windows, etc. I also like to carve initials and other graffiti in the appropriate places.

Now I make an antiquing glaze using a matte finish, acrylic varnish mixed with burnt sienna acrylic in a ratio of 1 to 10.I apply this antiquing glaze to the entire exterior of the building, including all trim. Take care to work it into every crack where dirt and grime would live. Again, this is a thin coat, carelessly applied. I want wear, not a flawless finish, so some "raw" areas are desirable. Work a small area at a time. Apply with a sponge brush and dab with a damp sponge for a good variety of color and highlight. When this has dried for another 24 hours, I study the effect then reapply my sanding brick to knock off additional emphasis of age in certain high traffic areas such as stair treads, door frames, porch rails.

I complete the aging and application of a sign by applying a wash of water tinted with black acrylic to the entire exterior of the structure. Where I sanded the second time, or where no varnish was applied, this will darken the finish. I use a clean damp sponge to wipe away any excess. As before, I work a small area at a time.

Becky