I have gussied up a scratch & dent Petite Princess Treasure View cabinet and buffet chest to look better than new – found architectural clipart the same dimensions as the drawer fronts, cut to fit, and decoupaged them to replace the original stained, ripped red velvet paper.   Looks fabulous if I do say so; always thought that red velvet was PP's one design flaw anyway.  

Fine artist and miniaturist Natasha Beshenkovsky has even designed a line of decoupage patterns sized to fit kit furniture, so those of us who are impoverished paint klutzes can still own a Natasha "original" miniature with a little effort!

Loretta.Sniarowski

Instant Grrrip Glue: Quinn posted that Instant Grrrip glue appears 'hard to find' by folks...I've offered it on my website since its 'birth' and I've used it almost exclusively for my work -- I love it!  "All Things Small" - http://www.allthingssmall.com

Laura in OKC

Small gluing jig: I make a 3" x 5" gluing jig out of Melamime with an 1/8" aluminum fence on two adjoining sides.  It is square in all planes. There are pictures on the web site under tools.   http://www.smallerthanlife.com/Tools.html

If you need a really small gluing jig we carry a square that measures 2" x 3" on the inside.   It lies flat on the table and is 1/4" high. This is also on the web site.

Pete Boorum

laser cutting: There was an ad in Miniature Collector (the new one that just came out) for laser cutting. I don't know anything about it, but understand that a cutting machine costs many thousands of dollars so maybe this would solve the problem. I don't know this person nor do I know anything about his reliability or lack of it, but it would be something to explore.

Dottie in Tucson

UK/Wallpaper: "I also had problems finding wallpaper that I liked here in the UK, on a visit to my local DIY shop (focus) I found a solution. .....

Wickes the builders supply people do the best tiny patterned wall papers of all the DIY shops. They have just revamped their wall paper display section and provided us with those nice wall paper cutters so you don't tear it and damage your 'sample' Just fold the paper sharp and crease first. Then use the cutter. Several stall holders at fairs sell their papers. Lots of coordinating designs with borders too. My youngest always takes a full wall length when decorating, cannot look at little scraps. So my pieces are sooo much smaller than hers!

I often shop there as they are inexpensive for so many things. Also they sell the instant mitre fix. Kept in the locked orange glue cabinet. Not on the shelves. Its super glue with activator. No clamping as sets extremely strong in 5-10 seconds. A little tube attachment provided for miniaturists. LOL It is used for full size window frames etc. and I cannot part it once joined.

Pauline, UK

American Woodworker Clothes pin clamps: I went to the American Woodworker site, decided to build the clamps. Dh offered to cut. When he was through, he handed me the cut-off ends, "Do these pieces look like furniture feet to you?" Yes indeed they do! They also have an appearance of Claw Feet, after a little Dremel-Time! Then I started a closer inspection of the rest of the clothes pin. Hmmmm, could be legs after dividing lengthwise?

Rita in Montana

"Strapping" down the Dremel: I hope by "strapping down" the Dremel you mean to hold it securely so you have two hands free. I will assume that is your intention. I have done this. The method I used is as follows;

I obtained a piece of channel metal; the channel wide enough for the Dremel to rest in but still sit higher then the edges of the channel. I clamped it in place with a steel hose clamp. Then the channel was C clamped to the work bench. I had two hands free after that. I hope this is what you intended.

Drbob...Delray Beach FL

Splitting Wood stirrers; I asked my husband about the problem of splitting wood stirrers. His suggestion is first make sure your drill bits are sharp and not dull. Second of all start the hole with a smaller drill bit and then go with a larger one. I would imagine for blinds you would need a very small hole. Therefore make sure your drill bit is very small and sharp.

Bonnie in Montana

Clamps: here is the page for those into clamps, like us: http://www.americanwoodworker.com/200204/workshop_tips/ The saw horse and panty hose tips look good too, but I'll let everyone else go and look for themselves.

David

Glue gun: As a person who spends a great deal of time doing dhs for others I find that glue guns are good for a quick hold when I use regular types of glue. It holds the pieces together without gluing until the glue sets up.

I also use the glue gun when I know that windows will be removed later for people that just for some reason don't want to put on wall paper at this time. It's easier to remove stairs and windows so they aren't in the way when you put on carpeting mouldings or wp.

Deanna from beautiful downtown Thiensville

DREMEL TUTORIAL; Part 1

A tool is only an aide to assist you in doing the work you intend to do. It is supposed to save time and effort, nothing more. How you know and handle the tool will determine the result.

The Dremel Tool Company makes a variety of tools all of which are very good for their specific purpose. But there are a few that can be used in the vast majority of construction in our hobby of miniatures. Like the all American peanut butter, which is so basic as every parent and child knows; but when you become innovative and put the peanut butter between two pieces of chocolate you have created a whole new dimension. It is the same with some of the Dremel tools. Therefore I will concentrate on what I think is the basic tools and get a bit innovative. It may not be as good as peanut butter between chocolate but then again every ones taste is different.

To be discussed;

Moto tools; variable and one speed.

Flex shaft.

Scroll saw.

Accessories.

It is my personal preference; I have used the above equipment almost extensively and with some variations (tips; jigs and hints) I have used them to the exclusion of all the others. At this time I would suggest everyone interested log onto <Dremel .com> and request a catalogue. It is free. This way you will have a picture and explanation of the item I may be discussing.

I will intentionally try to avoid the use of Item #'s to lessen confusion. Item #'s can be found in the catalog.

As I complete each section I will post it. I might suggest you print it so you can read and look at an item in the catalog at the same time. Or if you own the piece of equipment I am talking about you can handle or (your choice); caress it. I do.

DrBob...Delray Beach, FL

Glue gun:   the glue sticks for glue guns come in at least two heat ranges. That may be why results vary from person to person. A hot store window or a hot car will melt the glue of even the higher heat range glue sticks, I have watched it happen. If you still have the choice, why take the chance?

Barb Jones

Glues: And speaking of glue, I now import Aliphetic and Super Aliphetic glues which are terrific for putting houses together when you are also nailing or using clamps. They have some tackiness, fill gaps and when you do models they can take a stain. They were specially designed for the thin, tab construction houses like Greenleaf or Corona.

My secret to a permanent shingled roof is to use Quick Grab which should be used sparingly. I work with enough for 5-6 shingles at a time, because the glue sets up fast and sometimes the phone rings.

At first when I started doing houses for others I used Liquid Nails in a caulk gun. It was a bit messy but I learned quickly to control it. However, when I was out of it 2 years later I used Quick Grab, and I haven't gone back. I work fast and don't want to worry about shingles sliding or coming loose later. I've repaired child damaged roofs done with glue guns. For that I'm thankful, because the shingles are usually loose and can be pulled out or I can loosen them with a hair dryer. Those house done with glue guns that have been stored in attics also tend to wilt. QG costs more, but it's worth it.

Deanna from beautiful downtown Thiensville

Insulating Foam: Insulating foam is one of the handiest things to have in your workshop. It's very inexpensive and if you see someone who's doing any building, and using sheets of pink or blue stuff, you can probably get them to save you good sized scraps of it for nothing. They throw them away. I use the 1" thick pink kind (under 10 US dollars for a 4' x 8' sheet).

Take a 8x8 piece (or a size that you find comfortable to work with, I have all different sizes, if I'm doing a Bunka rug, I usually use a piece that's about an inch larger then the rug, all around) of insulating foam, lay a sheet of graph paper on top of it, stab a straight pin all the way in at each corner of the graph paper so it doesn't slip, wrap the whole thing like a meat package and after you have the top smooth and tight, secure with scotch tape on the back. This makes a wonderful gluing jig when you're doing a workshop that has to glue two pieces squarely together. I use push pins or t-pins to secure the item. with the graph paper under the saran wrap, you now it will be square. I use the same setup if I'm making a Bunka rug except instead of having graph paper under the saran wrap I put the pattern there.

I use these at home as well as when I'm taking a workshop where I know we'll be doing a piece of furniture or a rug. You can get a sheet of insulating foam for a ridiculously inexpensive amount and it has a ton of uses. I did a Bunka rug workshop for our club and as part of the kit gave everyone a 6x6 piece of this to work on.

- - Use it for landscaping
- - If you have things stick on the end of a pencil that you have just painted, you can stab the pencils into a slab of it til the item dries. I usually keep a scrap piece at the side of my worktable.
- - If you use T-pins (stuck in deep) you can make up a quick little loom.
- - Stick in a couple of needles about 3/8 inch apart and you have a bow-maker.
- - At Xmas, stick in a couple of finishing nails, wrap around with gold wire in a figure 8 all the way to the top, then with a pair of side cutters cut down one section just after the x. shape slightly with needle nose pliers and you have a bunch of ornament hooks.

If you don't want to get the insulating foam, you could always use a ceiling tile. I find the foam less messy. Plus, if I'm in a hurry, I can always run a cut down it with my X-Acto knife, slam it against the edge of a table and have another new work surface.

Jean in Maine

Brass to Brass: When I took a class, we glued the brass pieces together with super glue. The thinner the super glue, the better. However, the teacher did mention that you need to clean the brass using steel wool or sandpaper. Brass sometimes can have a coating on it that you need to remove. Also oils and tarnish can keep the glue from properly adhering too.

Trish in Sunnyvale, CA

Sharpening X-Acto Blades: My major reason for blade disposal is a broken tip. I also sharpen blades. One real cheap, but effective sharpener is the striker strip on a safety match book. I recently obtained a sharpener from Micro Mark that hold the blade at the correct angle. It works like a charm.

Dave

The Chopper: I have the Chopper. I believe the Chopper III is either the bigger one or the one you can use to cut multiple setting. I love mine. I compare it more to my X-Acto mitre box and an X-Acto knife. Since I work a lot in 144 scale, I actually use it to cut my furniture pieces, but it also work well in 1" scale to cut exact or duplicate sizes of trim, picture frames and I'm sure other things that you will come up with as you start using it. If you keep a fresh blade in it, it will also give you better cuts than you could make just using a regular X-Acto knife. I'm sure you got info with it, but the company also has a web site. www.NWSL.com (Okay, I just looked at my info. The Chopper III has a bigger work surface than mine). I also want to get the Duplicutter and the Bender as well. I think you will enjoy it once you start using it. You will find more uses for it than you originally think you will.

Peggy

Painting tiny plastic pieces: Just spray with some primer. The cheaper the better, usually. I like Krylon. One teacher uses double stick tape to hold down tiny pieces to spray.

Laurie Sisson

Dremel hole cutting: In case there are new miniaturists out there unfamiliar with this attachment. Dremel has an attachment and bits for cutting holes in drywall, wood, tiles, etc. It works great. You have much more control, can see what you are doing and get a cleaner cut than you would with a jig saw. I am not a carpenter or woodworker per se, and after only a couple of practice cuts on scrap wood to see what it did, I was ready to go.

I got my attachment at Wal-Mart in the tools section. Just make sure you use the right bit for the job since there are different ones.

Peggy

Dremel Hole Cutters: Several people have emailed me asking for additional information on the Dremel Hole Cutter. The Hole Cutter isn't very expensive. It was actually designed with the Home Repair Handyman in mind instead of the miniaturist. You can probably find it in the tool section of your local home improvement store, I purchased mine at Wal-Mart.

The hole cutter is an attachment with bits. There are two different attachments. One is flat bottomed so your tool sits at a 90 degree angle from your work, the other is angles so you are at a 45 degree angle. I would suggest the flat, 90 degree angle tool for most of your miniature applications. The end cap unscrews from around the bit holder on your Dremel tool and this attachment screws on. You place the bit of choice that is specifically for the attachment in your tool and you are ready to go. To my knowledge, there are three bits that are made for this attachment, but they may have more on the market by now. There is one for drywall-any lighter material you need to cut, one for wood and onefor tile. I have the bits for drywall and wood, which came with my attachment when I purchased it. I have not had a need to cut holes in tile, brick or anything more substantial yet, so I don't know how well that bit works.

The attachment for cutting holes does several things. It gives you a steadier cut because the bottom of the attachment fits against the wood so you can concentrate on following your line. It gives you a much cleaner cut than using a jig saw because you are working with a finer bit with less vibration than you could get with a jig saw. It's excellent if you construct your house and then decide you want an additional opening because you don't have to pull it all apart again, and you can get to spaces you couldn't get to with a scroll saw. This is one of the less expensive attachments that Dremel has and I think if you do a lot of construction and woodworking yourself, one you will get lots of use out of. One of the people I emailed directly before I started getting so many questions took a copy of the email with them when they went to look for the attachment, so if I still haven't made this clear, you may want to do that as well.

Peggy