Dremel Hole Cutters: Peggy, You did a good job describing the Dremel Multipurpose Attachment except for the fact that you got it confused with the Grout Removal Tool and equated one with the other.

The flat bottomed guide is for the Multipurpose Attachment and used for cutting designs and holes in various materials. As you said, it has the three bits for wallboard, wood, and ceramic wall tile.

The angled bottom guide is for the Grout Removal Attachment and used with one of two special bits (1/16 and 1/8 inch) to remove the grout between tiles.

Let's ignore the angled one right now. The Multipurpose Attachment is a great attachment for your existing Dremel MultiPro tools. It will cut materials as freely as you can direct it. It is limited in depth and density of the stuff you are trying to cut. Certainly for miniature work such as we do, it is superb. Your description is accurate and should be accepted by miniaturists. I use it and heartily recommend it. The greatest thing about the Dremel tools is the fact that they have so many capabilities offered that you can experiment with attachment and tool associations to solve any mini problem.

Dave Brazelton

Dremel "hole cutters":
The exact name for this "hole cutter" is "Advantage high speed rotary saw" Not only does the collar come off but also the handle. This is a much more powerful machine than the Dremel moto tool. I have used the Dremel Jawed chuck (new accessory) which allows you to use any diameter shank without the need to change collettes. It goes from 1/8" to "0". With the handle off and the cutting guide off the machine is very much like the standard Moto tool; but with more power!. There is another new accessory for this "hole saw" and it allows you to cut circles from 1" to 19"; in diameter. It is item #960. I have one and have used it and find it is a gem of a tool.

Suggestion; If you clamp your wood to be cut onto a piece of scrap and anchor this to the work bench. Place the perpendicular accessory onto the Advantage and you can use the instrument as a saw for ripping or cross cutting. The perpendicular attachment has a depth gauge so you can make a few passes over the cut line going deeper at each pass, of course cutting on the waste side of the cut line. In a pinch it can double as a free moving router. (in this manner) If you are making straight line cuts, I would suggest that you make a fence to press the Advantage against, as this powerful motor my decide to cut off line if you are totally free handing it.

DrBob...Delray Beach, FL

Flex Shafts on Dremel.: Flex shafts fit on the front (chuck end) of the Dremel tool and act as a flexible extension to the tool. In one respect it is kind of awkward to use because of the stiffness of the shaft in others it is a great advantage. The best advantage is that the hand piece is smaller in diameter than the Dremel tool motor itself thus it fits your hand better and you can get closer with little cutting discs etc. Many wood carvers use flex shafts as it gives them better control.

The flex- shaft is stiff so you don't really have a lot of room to twist it or distort it but once you overcome the limitations it is possible you will leave the shaft on at all times.

I have a Fordham which is a flex shaft machine full time. It can't be converted to non flex. I keep it hanging by my work bench all the time. Now that I have it I rarely use my Dremel. The Fordham is more powerful and turns slower. Also much quieter. When using the Dremel, hand held, or flex hand held, or a Fordham I find a variable speed foot control a must. When you remove your foot from the pedal the tools shuts off right now. If you don't have a foot control it can be somewhat dangerous because you have to fumble to find the switch and can cut yourself (or wind your hair up in a rats nest) before you can stop the tool. It also gives you complete control of the speeds when carving or polishing.

Bill Hudson, Eugene, Oregon

Dremel flex shaft: a flex shaft isn't necessary for a Dremel tool, but can be very helpful. The flexible shaft attaches to the Dremel tool, then you put your bit, sander or other accessory in the end of the shaft. The shaft has a pencil type grip, so you can guide the bit with a light touch. You don't have the weigh of the whole Dremel tool in your hand, just the end of the shaft. Kinda' like using a vacuum cleaner hose instead of trying to suck stuff up straight from the canister.

Jackie from Maryland

Dremel Flex Shaft: The flex shaft is not necessary but it's really convenient, specially when doing miniature work. I used a Dremel for more than 40 years without a flex shaft. Now that I have one, I wouldn't be without it. What it does is let you use the Dremel like you would a pencil. It lets you get into smaller places with your choice of bits. It means you are carrying a much lighter weight than the Dremel tool. So, for grinding, engraving, shaping, cutting, etc. it is a worthwhile investment. It will require a way to hold the Dremel tool. The flex-shaft tool holder, a Dremel tool holder and base, a padded vice, or a strategically placed brick will do.

Dave, Bradenton, FL

Flex-shaft: I have been using the flex-shaft for many years and wouldn't give it up. I use the accessory that clamps on the table, extends about 2 feet up and I hang the flex-shaft from that. That way I can use it at table level and inside the dollhouse. I can reach all the way to the far side of the house with it. I also use mine with a foot control. Sure makes it handy. I did have the one that had a detachable flex-shaft but then bought the one that is permanent. I much prefer this one.

Fannye in TX

Glue applicators for hard to get at places. I can only tell you what has worked fairly well for me. I take a piece of bare copper wire. Not too thin or the weight of it self bends it. About 20 gauge should do it. I cut off a piece long enough to get into the corner of some hard to get to place and dip the end into the glue. Just a dip (very little) and then using both hands I extend the wire to where I wish to place the glue. When I get the end of the wire back I wipe it off with a cloth so it is not going to build up and look like a lollipop and pick up tons of glue. I did the following a few times, if the place I have to get to is around a corner or edge. Before I dip the wire into glue I bend the wire and make a practice dry run to the spot. If the angle and the manipulations get me there, then I dip and deliver.

DrBob...Delray Beach, FL

Glue applicators: I just got a Clotilde sewing catalog in the mail yesterday and they have these little bottles for glue, with long skinny applicators. Maybe they are what you are looking for? They have a web site, http://www.clotilde.com their phone is 800-772-2891 and they are called "liquid bottle set". And NO I am not affiliated with them in any way. The catalog has a bunch of neat stuff for mini making.

Karyn Zabrouski

Glue applicators: I've recently added dispensers to my import line. There are 2 syringes with 3 different size needles to give you the results you need in most situations. I actually got them to put the Scenic Water into drink glass, cups and other small spaces. However, I've really gotten more use from them when gluing. In the shop there are all sorts of things that come or get unglued (We do not say broken). These syringes really do the job on fine furniture, etc. minitqs@execpc.com

Deanna from beautiful downtown Thiensville

Mel K.

Sir Thomas Thumb: I have a large selection of tools and Sir T's other things on my website. The tools are on http://www.spminiatures.com/ththwork.htm

Carol

Crafts Books -- Recently, various Stuffers have asked about good craft books -- e.g., for doll making, polymer clay, knotting, and beadwork. Sorry for the delay, but I felt I should contact the company and see if they were still in business as my catalog was out of date and I just heard back today. They're not only in business, but on line at http://www.larkbooks.com I've bought a number of books from them in the past and was very happy with the quality and with the quick service. The crafts they cover go way beyond what I mention above, so if you're looking for ANY craft book, try them. Some of their offerings are either written or commissioned by them, so you won't find these titles elsewhere. They also carry some companion tools.

Chrissy the Hyphenated

Repairing resin: Cathy asked for the best glue for repairing resin figures etc. I've found that Quick Grab works the best on resin for me.

Alice Zinn- Pt. St. Lucie FL

Repairing resin: I use super glue gel. (I like the gel because it doesn't run - and I don't end up with my fingers glued together!!)  

Patty Johnson

Dremel: Home Depot gives Dremel lessons. They will even do a group class for your mini club; just call them if there's one near you. Or, try their website: http://www.dremel.com/html/started/started.html

Stacey Torres

Dremel: If you visit their web site http://www.dremel.com/html/home_fr.html you will find a wealth of information there. If you go to the Customer Service page, Literature request, you can order a product catalog and a copy of "Projects for the Imagination Uses Guide for Rotary Tools" for free. They also have an owners' club and hundreds of projects on their "Project Finder" page, complete with photo instructions and a list of everything you need to do the project. It is probably one of the best web sites I have ever run across.

David

Dremel: I could not work without my Dremel - I use it for practically everything. If I could only have one bit I think a fiber cut off wheel might be the choice because I could use it to saw and sand. Of course I wouldn't give up any of my bits and I have tons - from diamond to router bits - - I NEED them all. If you are chipping wood or gouging it, you may be putting too much pressure. I was taught a long time ago to always use gentle pressure with any cutting tool (Sanders included) to allow the tool to do the work. Otherwise you will wear out the tool and the bits rather than sand or cut your work piece. Don't give up on that tool though - it is probably the most valuable one you have!

Jacqui in Hilo, Goddess of Chaos

The bucking Dremel (not a Western tale): Any rotating bit will buck when it is applied to a surface when it is rotating at too high a speed. If you are going to use the rotating bit at a high speed to start with (you will have to let me know which bit it was) then you must very slowly apply it to the surface it is going to work on. Occasionally I also will have a bit buck on me and I immediately move it off the surface it is bucking on and gently place it back on the surface - I also may slow down the speed.

Sanding drums will hardly buck. The bits that mostly will buck are the ones that bite into the wood. They are the ones that work by removing very small chunks of the wood while a sanding wheel or drum abrades the wood. If you are using a side cutting bit and this is the one that is bucking or stuttering (that is the phrase used) sometimes you just have to hold the drill tighter and put more pressure onto the bit until it is removing those tiny chunks of wood. The wood that is being worked on has to be firmly held in place. Loose wood will also cause the stuttering (sorry but it is also referred to as chattering. (Both stuttering and chattering are very descriptive words for what we are discussing.)

The loose stock is also a good example of why the wood in a scroll saw has to be firmly held against the "table" of the saw. The teeth of the saw blade in the scroll saw must always face down so they are pulling the wood to be cut down against the "table". If the wood is not held firmly, it will be lifted up by the up stroke of the blade and slammed down on the down stroke, considering the speed of the scroll saw the wood chatters. Like every thing else; experience and hands on practice smooth out the problems attendant with any new procedure or tool experience.

Bob

Dremel: Scorching occurs when the teeth, grit or cutters fill up and can't get rid of the chips or saw dust fast enough then they act as a friction wheel, sort of like when you sand or saw too fast and burn the wood. If the teeth aren't cutting then they must be sliding, which creates heat. Slow it down or move the wood past the cutter, faster.

I have had Dremels for many years and have just picked up a never used, still in the original box, a UNiMAT Lathe & Mill, with tools. I plan to do some serious turning this summer. I control my Dremels' and other motor tool speed with an old sewing machine, foot pedal, speed control unit. AC motor speed is control two ways, which we have like control of, by varying the current (not the voltage) to the motor or varying the number of motor field windings which use a switch to select different speeds. For those who care, the formula is: RPM= 120 x freq./no. of poles.

When drilling, the speed should vary in different metal and wood. Some exotic wood have to be drilled with metal cutting bits while others can be drilled with regular wood bits. I ask my dentist for his "throw away bits" when he's through with them, they'll still work on wood and are great for drilling pilot holes for nails or screws. It take a lot of practice to control a Dremel in one hand and apiece of wood in the other. I usually anchor one or the other down. I find it easier if I strap the Dremel down and move the wood past the cutter. I do the reverse for drilling. Others will have different methods, but these are mine,

Dan in IL

Dremels: I couldn't live without my Dremel. I bought the flexible shaft for my Dremel, it makes it much easier to use, it's like holding a pen and it's much easier to control. I saw that someone else is having a problem with scorching, I think that your rotary tool may be too fast. My Dremel has 5 speeds and if I am shaping or sanding a piece with the speed too high the wood scorches.

Kathy