The Dremel: This is a high speed low torque motor. By that expression of "low torque" means that it has not got brute power and if you apply too much pressure to the accessory in the tool you can stall the motor. The Dremel is made to get its work done by the use of the high speed capabilities. Light touch and high speed gets the job done. Caress the work with the drill functioning at the best speed for the job being done. Sanding can be high speed and light touch. Drilling if too slow a speed will stall the motor, too high a speed and you may burn the wood and lose the temper of the steel in the drill bit. Just like driving a car or cooking, the more experience the better you get, hopefully.

DrBob...Delray Beach, FL

Dremel: I recently bought an accessories kit for my Dremel (I have everything, but you can never have too many bits!). I had a list of each bit along with the usual use for each one. I shall try to describe them here, for those of you who asked.

Grinding wheel - aluminum oxide ~ used for cleaning, deburring, grinding and polishing of most metals, castings, welded joints, rivets, rust.

Grinding wheel - silicon carbide ~ stone, glass, ceramics, porcelain, non-ferrous metals Sanding bands (barrel-shaped), flap wheel, sanding disks ~ different grits - obvious use for sanding. Different shapes get into different places more easily.

Diamond cutters ~ fine detail work on jade, ceramic, glass, wood (I would not use these on wood). There are hundreds of shapes and sizes. American Scientific and Surplus has some very inexpensive sets similar to what I have and they are most useful). They need to be cooled when used. I keep a sponge handy and periodically cool the bit and the work piece. Light touch is mandatory.

Carbide cutter ~ hardened steel, cast-iron, stainless steel, ceramics HSS cutter (not sure what that means - high something steel) ~ soft steel, soft metals, plastics, fiber glass, wood (Last two are metal file type bits)

Fiber glass cut off wheel, general purpose cut off wheels heavy duty and regular ~ slicing and cutting metals, wood, plastics (and I also carefully use the flat areas to sand with - they break easily though)

Rubber emery wheel (Cratex) ~ light deburring (metals, jewelry work, plastics)

Bristle brushes ~ cleaning and polishing silverware, jewelry. Also nice for getting into corners to clean.

Axial or Radial stainless steel brushes ~ removing rust, corrosion, polish metals (also texturing wood)

Brass brushes ~ clean electrical components

Felt wheels ~ used with various polishes on metals and plastics (can also be used on stone). For high polished objects, do not mix different polishes on same wheel. Store used wheel in plastic bag and label what polish is on it. Tiny grit can contaminate these and ruin a piece.

Cloth layered wheel ~ also for polishing

Twist drills - obvious

Mandrels ~ hold various types of grinding and sanding disks and saws

Screw point mandrel ~ hold pointed felt and cratex bits

Collet ~ various sizes to hold various shanks in Dremel tool

I finally bought an adjustable adaptor for the dremel that avoids a lot of switching. See MicroMark

Dressing stone ~ cleans grinding wheels.

Other things I use and find handy ~ router attachment with router bits to make mini moldings, chanels, etc.

Right angle head helps me get to places I can't with the straight tool.

Flex shaft

Metal saw blades ~ best if you set the dremel in a clamp base and make a table to fit over it so it can be used like a table saw. Can be quite dangerous.

1/4" shank mini chain saw bit ~ very dangerous - use with shield (which I shall soon purchase) for wood carving.

I am sure I am leaving something out, but this is such a versatile tool that I could do most of my work with just this one tool and all of the attachments.

Jacqui in Hilo

Dremel accessories: Jacqui in Hilo made some very good postings regarding the use of Dremel accessories. I feel I should put in my 2 cents.

I have used the Dremel metal circular saw blade and it has a problem in that it is so thin that it meanders all over the place and follows the wood grain instead of the cut line. Dremel has two new wood cutting circular blades. One is thin and rigid with diamond dust on it. It does a good job. The other is a much thicker kerf but rips and cross cuts like a gem The wide kerf mandates cutting on the waste side of the cut line.

For cleaning out sanding drums and files. I use the metal wire wheel that is a metal brush. I hold it in my fat little hand while the sanding drum is rotated and it does a fairly good unclogging job. Same for files. I use the wire brush in the Dremel for files. I have yet in all my years used the dressing stone. Maybe it's just old habits die hard.

DrBob...Delray Beach, FL.

Dremel: I haven't figured out why those people haven't even tried to use their Dremel tool. I am on my second one and this one is cordless. I dearly love it. I use it to drill holes to start screws, to lightly sand the "feathers" from my Dremel jig-saw. I have been making the 1/4" Debbie Young stores and use the cutting wheel to cut out the doors and windows. Much easier than trying to use an X-Acto knife. I buy the sanding discs from MicroMark because I can buy the peel and stick.  In fact, you had better move when I have the little Dremel in my hand because you either get sanded, or holed. I couldn't live without it. Just start using it, you'll love it.

Mary Ann

Dremel: For ease and safer way of using a Dremel rotary tool. I have used the flex shaft offered by Dremel for many years. Using Flex Shaft handpiece I don't have to hold the awkward tool itself instead I hold a 1" diameter handpiece with choice of bit in chuck.

MicroMark`s Page: http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/products/60889.html  (If you choose a flex shaft choose "Dremel" made)

With the stand (on this page) holding Dremel, flex shaft.

MicroMark`s Page: http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/products/50352.html

and using a speed control (on this page) it allows you to give a lighter touch and better control.

With my work piece in a vise:

http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/products/81314.html   

http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/products/21123.html or ???

The Dremel drill stand; It is a low cost entry level accessory for the Dremel rotary drill, but with lots of patience it will achieve marvels.

http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/products/50288.html Somewhere Dremel offers a table top holder for the Moto Tool with a swivel, sorry I lost source.

Some of your project pieces you can hold in your hand while using handpiece.

Note; Just like brushing your hair, if you brush against grain hair will stand up..... therefore if you push tool against grain the tool will kick back. Try to go with grain, however there are times you have no choice, so use lighter pressure.

NOTE ! Using the circular saw chucked in Dremel "Freehand" is a VERY Dangerous way to use it. Only use in drill press or some other controlled set up

When using any power tools ..... listen to them, after using them over time you will hear when they are running correctly or straining and when straining. trouble is coming either a jamb, kickback or a bad finished product

=== Curious George; Just what kind of things are people trying to accomplish with a Dremel tool?

I see that at the Tom Bishop Show in Chicago they offer workshops (unfortunately my try this AM would not open site). If you check offerings it would offer new tool users a great opportunity to get some hands on basics from the workshops.

Most of the woodworking classes offered at the IGMA Guild School use other type tools than Dremel rotary. Tools such as "Overhead Shapers, Cameron drill press’s, wood and metal lathes, table saws etc. 

You can with patience make something with a hammer and screw driver, but a tool designated for a specific purpose does it so much easier, faster more accurately and far better quality of finish.

George Hoffman ~ IGMA Fellow

Tip: to make a marking gauge and have 2 tools in 1 here is what I did. I took an angle gauge. One of those inexpensive tool that has a wing nut and a sliding metal arm so you can duplicate angles. Using the open channel that permits you to move the arm to the angle being duplicated; take a small bolt and put a nut onto it (with a washer if needed between the nut and the open end of the bolt). Slip the bolt thru the channel of the arm. Thread on another nut with a washer. (The washer facing the head of the bolt). Clamp the metal arm of the gauge between the two nuts and washers. Sharpen the free end of the bolt to a point. By sliding the metal angle arm so that the bolt gets closer to the wing nut, and measuring the distance from the point of the bolt to the body of the angle gauge, you can set the distance from the point of the bolt and the main arm of the device so that you now have a marking gauge and an angle gauge at the same time.

DrBob...Delray Beach, FL

Splintering of wood on the scroll saw. If you want to prevent splintering of the wood you are cutting; clamp it between two pieces of scrap wood. that way all the splintering will be on the scrap wood.

DrBob...Delray Beach, FL

Throwaway paintbrush - cut a pipe cleaner into half. bend it half again, grab the bent middle and twist the ends a few times. The size of the job is indicated by the size of the loop you make. It holds up well, is stiff enough to put some pressure on, holds paint well and can be tossed without much guilt. . . . A tiny loop in the end of a single wire also works pretty well for a tiny paint, glue, varnish applicator. You bend it so that the cut end fuzz won't come off in your wet stuff.

Judie - Daytona Beach, FL

Bondex Glue: I found some glue at Home Depot that is "to die for".   I have been gluing such things as paneling, baseboards, window trim, etc.; all things that can not be clamped.   I have used wood glue which requires me to hold the piece in place for quite awhile.  I have used Quick Grab successfully, but ran out of it.  Therefore I was looking for something that would stick quickly and assure a tight bond.  I found small bottle of a glue called BONDEX, an epoxy glue.  It is applied with a brush that looks like a nail polish brush.  The glue is not as thick as Quick Grab and applies very evenly.  Even though the bottle is small, it goes a long way based upon the method of application. IT STICKS IMMEDIATELY!!!

Claire March

Alternative to Quick Grab: Awhile back it was rumored that Quick Grab would no longer be available.   This turned out not to be true.   I did find another glue which has the same properties but I think works as well and is easier to use.   It is called Magna-Tak 809 by Beacon.   It is carried by Dee's Delights and should be available at your miniature shop.   It comes in an 8 oz. squeeze bottle, is easier to use than the tube and is less stringy.

Ruth, Grass Valley

Lathes: The discussion about the Anker Duplicator and other lathes has been   informative.   I have a couple of technical items to help tie this all  together. Dr. Bob's idea of using a plumbing fixture is problematic because  there is no 3/4-16 pipe thread that I can find in Machinery's   Handbook.  Pipe threads are usually different.

George Hoffman gave a great history of Anker's equipment.   The person  who bought the overhead shaper from Bonnie Klein is Rick Lane.   Rick changed the collet system and also uses a Ryobi die grinder.  I have seen one of his new machines at Castine.  Perhaps someone who has used this machine at the Guild School can comment on Rick's modifications.

A far as I know the Anker Duplicator lathe and the Simms lathe are both made from Taig components.  I don't think the Taig is set up for a number 1 Morse Taper in the head stock.  Their collets fit directly on the spindle and are held in place with a 3/4-16 nut so that taper is too steep.  George may know how the Guild School modified   these Taig machines to be more useful for miniatures.

Smaller Than Life does not carry any Anker machinery.  We did purchase the templates and template making equipment from Anker and Dean Jensen so that service is available.  Pam and I just couldn't allow the templates to be lost when Dean retired.   We get our lathe duplicators to fit the Carbatec Lathe we sell.  We also distribute Sherline and the Cameron drill press.   BTW both the Carbatec and Sherline use the #1 MT in the head stock spindle.

Also we do not sell any of Anker's tapes.  I think NAME may have a set to lend to their members.

Pam & Pete Boorum

Picking up objects::  As I was flipping through a gardening catalog yesterday (yet another hobby--well, two if you count the catalog shopping), I saw one of those suction bulb planters meant to help one pick up the tiniest individual seeds for sowing.   It comes with several different sized needles for different seeds.   This would be great for minis, especially picking up things like FIMO strawberries to place in a bowl, etc.  This would also eliminate a release problem like using a tacky toothpick or similar would present (OK, I've got the item where I want it, now how do I get it off the toothpick??).

Lynette in WNC

Dremel Cutter: I have found the best cutter for my Dremel in American Science and

Surplus.   It was advertised as a diamond cutter, and it only cost $2.95.  I got it several months ago, and I use it all the time, but it doesn't seem to be wearing out at all.  I think it is still offered in their catalogue, but if it isn't, you can get a diamond cutter from the dealer that carries Dremel for $13.00.  I have one of those, too, but I like the ASS cutter better, because it is bigger.  I recommend this company to everyone, as it has a lot of good stuff.   You can look them up on the Internet, and order their catalogue on line.

DeeDee in Carmel Valley

Storing paint: I store mine in plastic boxes, made to store shoes.   I arrange them by color and store them upside down.  This way I can see the color and the paint doesn't dry out and is always at the top when I need it.   No waiting for it to come out of the bottle.  I also store glue bottles upside down, especially when I'm using them, (put the cap back on, of course).    Another tip for organizing your workroom is to store strip wood, trim and dowels in PVC pipe cut to the length you need.  My husband built an extra deep shelf for me when he made the cabinets in my workroom, the PVC comes in various diameters and I sort the wood by size into the different PVC pipes.  When I open the cabinet door I see just the ends of the PVC and the wood.  I hope that makes sense.

Also if you use a lot of stains, you can stain a scrap of wood the color of the stain in the can and glue it to the lid.  You can see at a glance what color stain is in the can.  Do be aware that different wood will accept the stain differently, but it will be a starting place.

Lillie in Texas

1/2" scale resources/Tools: re: topic of mini tools I stumbled across Mrs Art's Minis and noted some tweezers, scissors, and wire cutters for sale on the supplies page http://www.mrsart.homestead.com/

re: looking for 1/2" scale food, glassware, tableware; here are a few links:
http://www.scaledesigns.com/

http://www.halfscaleminis.com/

http://miniatureconcepts.hypermart.net/index.html

http://www.tinyheirlooms.com/

http://www.dollhousefood.com/

Nursemini

Applying Yes glue on wallpaper: I have two ways of applying glue to wallpaper.  One is to use a stiff bristled brush, and sweep it on.  The other way, which is much faster, is to take a tongue depressor, dip it in the glue, and put a glob on the wallpaper, then using the entire flat side of the stick smooth it out onto the paper. It is kind of like toweling with a stick.   This method gives good, smooth coverage, and you can slide it right off the edges of the wallpaper   onto your underlying paper (wax, newspaper, or whatever).

Carol

Applying Yes glue on wallpaper: I use Yes glue (also sold as Grandmother Stover's) for wallpapering all the time.   I apply it to the wall, not the paper, using an old credit card to spread it very thinly.  Then I put the paper on and use another credit card to smooth out the paper.   This method seems to work quite well for me.  Tip: try to use the kind of credit card that does not have the raised embossed letters and is a bit more flexible - my favorite is actually an old auto club membership card.

Chris in Minnesota

Separating glued Items: [Is there any way to get something apart that has been glued with wood glue without damaging the parts?...]

Depends on which wood glue, and what you are trying to separate.  You can try warm water or vinegar to help loosen the glue.  You can use a sharp knife to cut the glue line.

Tom

Multi-Grip Hardware, Household &   Marine Adhesive: Speaking of praising and glowing about glues... Here is the new glue I just discovered.   Works as well as Quick-Grab without the mess, or losing half the tube to the clogged nozzle; great bottle, somewhat  like theTacky Glue bottle but clear;   bonds Tile, Brick, Concrete, Wood, Glass, Leather, Fabric & Plaster.  Waterproof and dries crystal clear.  With all those credentials, silly me, I find it great for Polymer Clay work - neat and clean.

Anyway, it is Multi-Grip Hardware, Household &  Marine Adhesive (by Beacon)   I bought mine at my local hardware store (another place we miniaturists lurk).  Hope you can find it to try it.

Mary (Eccher)

Beacon Adhesives: Folks have been asking about where to find Beacon Adhesives. I ran a Google search and came up with this URL. http://beaconcreates.com/   Apparently they make a wide variety of specialty adhesives for home and industrial use.

Brian