Hide Glue: Someone had mentioned that hide glue came in a powder and you just add water so I felt the need to clarify something about these natural glues. Hide glue starts out to the consumer as a pkg. of glue crystals and yes you add water but what goes on after that is time consuming and not really apropos for the miniaturist...we use HOT hide glue in piano repair work. The crystals are also not consistent in their makeup so that you may end up having to throw away a whole batch. If you truly want to use hide (or fish, or whatever) try a commercially available product like Titebond Liquid Hide Glue. One of the reasons piano technicians use hot hide glue is that parts have to be taken apart, redone, re-glued, etc.,etc. (ever tried to take apart wood that had been glued with carpenter's glue?...it is not a pretty sight). On the other hand I have a dollhouse I put together with Aleen's Designer Tacky because I was doing so much changing to the design, etc...10 years later it is still together with no sign of the glue joints failing (I wouldn't put furniture together with this stuff but it has worked well in this situation).

Ana

Aleene's tack it again and again: I have used this item for many applications (such as carpets) that may have to be removed and re-installed. I have also used it on sticks to adhere things I wanted to spray paint. It has worked well for me. Although I haven't used it for your application, I think a bit of it on the feet or the bottom of the item will do well to hold it in place. Remember to let it dry overnight, at least, before you stick the item in place. If you need to remove it to show and want to replace it, the item should again adhere. If its holding power seems to be weak, repaint it and the hold should be restored. If the item is sold, a bit of wiping with the fingers or some aggressive scraping should peal the glue from the item.

Dave, Bradenton, FL

Sticky Stuff: Re: the mini hold wax stuff. I used to use that all the time. Two problems with it for me, though. In Arizona, if your A/C is inadequate, things tend to fall off. Wax doesn't do all that well in heat. I learned the hard way that other things work better. I have also used rubber cement and it can damage porous items as well. For delicate items I prefer using a cut off straight pin as a nail, and I am experimenting with "Movable Miniatures Glue". We shall see how it does over many years.

Bonnie Gibson - Tucson, Arizona

Sticky Stuff: Now here is a list of items being used for those other newbies who did not know the answer.
HOW TO KEEP THINGS IN PLACE IN YOUR DOLLHOUSE
1. Mini-hold
2. Blue-tac
3. Moveable Miniature Glue
4. Museum Wax
5. Grip Wax
6. Fimo
7. Sticky Tack
8. Quake Wax
9. Understickum
10. Fun Tack
11. Floral Tape
With a Great big thank you to Bonnie Gibson who posted an example of using one of the waxes in a hot climate and on a porous material and showing us how it leaves stains. I hope that others appreciate this info as much as I do.

Sharon in Oceanside, ACa.

Aleene's TackIt, which is a dry-tack adhesive. You paint on a thin coat and let it dry for several hours, and it dries tacky. I use it on the end of a dowel to hold tiny things in place for painting and gluing, and I stick the other end of the dowel into a bowl filled with sand or rice to hold it while paint or glue dries. I have also used it to hold accessories in place, and I've never known it to mar or discolor any of the materials I've used it with. If you use it to hold accessories in your dh, you might want to de-tack it just a bit first because the original tack is a little strong - for example, if you paint it on the bottom of a flower vase that's a little top-heavy, when the TackIt is dry, touch it a few times with a fingertip - -- you'll note that the really strong tack becomes less strong. This is important if you're using it on something really fragile that could possibly just fall apart as you try to unstick it.

Vicki Horiuchi

gluing technique: >>I have a question for some of you experts who make fine mini-furniture. I just read a tip in SSD that you wipe the excess glue that squeezes out of a joint after it is clamped using a damp rag. Years ago I took a millwork class and was taught that you should always wait until glue dries, then scrape it off because wiping it pushes it into the wood and prevents the stain or other finish from penetrating properly. My question - which is the correct way to clean up the glue? <<

Jacqui in Hilo, Goddess of Chaos

Glue seepage: > How do you keep the glue bumps away when you connect 2 pieces of wood using wood glue?? Give me some ideas on what you do!"
- -From watching The New Yankee Workshop on PBS and classes with Brooke Tucker.......Best Solution......Keep a damp rag on work bench. Glue up your pieces.. Press together ....Clamp. Wipe off excess glue immediately with damp rag.

Patricia / Redwood City, CA

Glue Seepage: - I have received two personal answers so far that I haven't yet seen in SSD - both are from long time woodworkers who say they would always let the glue dry and then carefully scrape it off. Also, if there is only just enough glue for the joint it won't seep and the problem will not occur. This is what I was taught and makes more sense.

Jacqui in Hilo

Carving Tools: That's something I like to do with miniatures, so I thought I'd come out of my semi-lurking and respond. Yes, a Dremel tool is a terrific help in working with miniatures - especially roughing out the basic shapes. If you use some of the tinier cutters, you can do some delicate carving. In those instances, I've found it easier to put the Dremel tool into a small vise which allows me to hold the wood with both hands (much better control for preventing the bit from moving out of control and ruining your carving).
Also, MicroMark has a set of carving knives that are quite nice. I've used the heck out of mine for my ornate furniture carving. Another tool I use a lot is my jeweler's saw. I've found it's easier to sometimes cut out the rough shapes with the jeweler's saw and then to glue these appliqués onto the piece I'm making. Another trick is to take an X-Acto knife blade and grind it down to a very small sized blade with your Dremel tool. This gives you a very delicate knife point you can work in and around pieces.
Small drill bits and/or an awl are also helpful for creating starting points from which you can move your Dremel tool. Also, when you want to do pierced carvings, you can drill the hole with your mini drill, thread your jeweler's saw blade through the hole and cut it out.

George Held

Tools: On the subject on mini power tools, have a look at http://www.minicraftusa.com Minicraft make some super tools for the miniaturist, we use quite a few on our horses. (take a look at the detail we get to on http://www.woodencraft.co.uk) Their prices are fair which makes the decision easier! If you want the 'Rolls Royce' (or 'Cadillac') of miniature power tools, take a look at Proxxon mini tools, http://www.proxxon.com/ they are the 'bee's knees' Does that expression travel the pond?

Pete and Annie Cook

Magnifying Lamps: The best type of magnifying lamp is the one with a circular fluorescent tube surrounding the lens as it doesn't cast any shadows. These can be quite expensive, up to about £100.00 in the UK, but are far superior to the other sort which uses an ordinary light bulb. Also make sure it has a glass lens and not plastic. I don't know where to get them in the US, but in the UK you can get good quality lamps and all accessories from Shesto, http://www.shesto.co.uk/ who incidentally do a whole range of tools suitable for miniatures.

Colin Bird

Forms Ruler: The ruler you were describing Dani is called a Forms Ruler or Forms Design Ruler, (usually 18" but also 12") and is/was used to design preprinted forms that required VERY specific spacing for printing considerations for data processing or information systems. In days gone by (been there) these rulers were given out as "gifts" by the forms companies to forms designers (done that) in hopes of acquiring orders... Now they usually are $10-15 if & when you can find them. Here's a URL to see what one looks like http://www.millerdial.com/rulers_photo1.shtml
http://www.millerdial.com/rulers_photo1.shtml - this particular one has a 1/6th scale (i.e. double the 1/12th scale many miniaturists use) plus other misc. scales. Do a search for "forms ruler" or "forms design ruler" - Google was used for above - and it will turn up some for purchase if you can't find them at a local "stationery" store.

Linc Leedy

Gluing Felt: If you are working with felt you can glue it with rubber cement or what I did when working with felt, not in miniatures, is to soak and saturate the felt with latex (neoprene-synthetic) and squeeze out the excess and then shape the felt and let it dry. When it is dry it can be handled like wood. Sanded, painted etc.

DrBob...Delray Beach, FL.

Gluing Felt: I am assuming that the felt you want to glue is the usual craft felt, made of polyester. The only glue I have found to use successfully on it is Fabritac...available in mini stores, craft stores and WalMarts craft dept.

Alice Zinn

Dremel Tools: Here is my recommendation for the Dremels you need. I suggest you obtain both a corded model such as the model 3962 variable speed Multipro Tool kit. This comes with a case an 72 of the accessories (bits) that will get you started. This set costs $64.00 at Lowe's' stores in this area. I also suggest the model 750 Minimite cordless. It comes with a few accessories, and charger. The accessories you get with the 3962 will fit the Minimite. This small tool is valuable when you want to work inside the dollhouse. You aren't dragging that cord in with it. It costs about $30.00. They come with a catalog so you can see the other goodies that are available.
Take a look at http://www.dremel.com It is an excellent resource. It has tips, project suggestions (with recommended bits), complete descriptions of all the Dremel tools and accessories as well as the "Owners Club" that includes a neat buletin board where many questions are asked and answered.
There should have been a little booklet in your kit that has examples of projects and the tips on how to approach them.
When all else fails, call 1-800 437-3635. This is customer support and will help you with individual problems.
Using the Dremel in no more complex than an electric toothbrush. It just will do many more things. Don't be afraid of it. Just let it do the work for you.
I invite you to take a look at my website to see some of the stuff I have made using the Dremel. http://www.homestead.com/davesminiplace/

Dave Brazelton

Cleaning plastic windows: I think rubbing alcohol works to clean off plastic, I use it all the time.

Kaye in L.A.

Glue on Plexiglas: I just finished some bakery cases that involved gluing a lot of clear plastic and I also got some glue where I didn't want it. So I used Goo Gone and a very soft old dish towel to rub it off and it worked pretty well. Not sure if it would also work on Plexiglas, but you could try it first and see. It didn't smudge my plastic and in fact it came out nice and clear and shiny. Good luck.

Helen in New Jersey

Chrysnbon kits: Model airplane glue or any other plastic model cement (Testors makes one) is perfect for these kits.

I, too, never knew what a "cleansing tissue" was, maybe I'll find out from someone else who posts an answer for you! But I've always found that if you apply the wood stain they give you with a foam brush in very thin, watered down layers it gives you a more transparent finish a la real wood.

Karyn Zabrouski

Gluing Furniture: [ I'm trying to make my own furniture and the wood glue does not hold]
- Use Aileen's tacky glue. any excess you get on the wood can be wiped off with a damp rag, and the glue sets up fast. i never actually MADE furniture, just repaired it, and that is what i used.

Judy London

Gluing Wooden Furniture: I've been reading the posts on gluing furniture and it finally occurred to me that, when a carpenter making full size furniture glues something together, he does so under pressure, either by clamping things together or by using small nails or screws (which stay in place) to hold the pieces together while the glue sets. It's the glue that keeps the piece together and steady. I use yellow carpenter's glue or one of the tacky glues.

I use the green painter's tape to 'clamp' my minis when waiting for the glue to dry as it doesn't leave a residue on the raw wood. I don't have a power drill yet, so can't easily add a tiny pin to help hold. The clamping is what makes it stay together anyway. That, and removing excess glue. You don't want to use so much glue that the glue is sticking to glue, not the wood. Clamping with the tape forces excess glue out of the join. I also clean up with water, and a little sandpaper after if necessary. I'm bad because I stain my pieces after assembly as I always worry about warping the miniature wood. Qtips or wet toothpicks or a wet old brush are good for washing glue off places your fingers won't go. I push the bits together, clean up, dry with a Kleenex, then tape and clean up again if necessary. The hardest part is, as usual, not fiddling with the thing until it's dry.

Heather in Toronto