Repairing resin: I use silicon to glue resin. Use all you want as the excess will readily peel off when it's dry.

Carol, S P Miniatures

I now import Aliphetic and Super Aliphetic glues which are terrific for putting houses together when you are also nailing or using clamps. They have some tackiness, fill gaps and when you do models they can take a stain. They were specially designed for the thin, tab construction houses like Greenleaf or Corona. My secret to a permanent shingled roof is to use Quick Grab which should be used sparingly. I work with enough for 5-6 shingles at a time, because the glue sets up fast and sometimes the phone rings

Deanna from beautiful downtown Thiensville

Repairing resin: Cathy asked for the best glue for repairing resin figures etc. I've found that Quick Grab works the best on resin for me.

Alice Zinn- Pt. St. Lucie FL

Repairing resin: I use super glue gel. (I like the gel because it doesn't run - and I don't end up with my fingers glued together!!)

Patty Johnson

Clamps: here is the page for those into clamps, like us: http://www.americanwoodworker.com/200204/workshop_tips/

David

"Strapping"down the Dremel: I hope by "strapping down"the Dremel you mean to hold it securely so you have two hands free. I will assume that is your intention. I have done this. The method I used is as follows;

I obtained a piece of channel metal; the channel wide enough for the Dremel to rest in but still sit higher then the edges of the channel. I clamped it in place with a steel hose clamp. Then the channel was C clamped to the work bench. I had two hand free after that. I hope this is what you intended.

Drbob...Delray Beach FL.

Glue gun: the glue sticks for glue guns come in at least two heat ranges. That may be why results vary from person to person. A hot store window or a hot car will melt the glue of even the higher heat range glue sticks, I have watched it happen. If you still have the choice, why take the chance?

Barb Jones

Splintering of wood on the scroll saw. If you want to prevent splintering of the wood you are cutting; clamp it between two pieces of scrap wood. that way all the splintering will be on the scrap wood.

DrBob...Delray Beach, FL.

Splitting Wood stirrers; I asked my husband about the problem of splitting wood stirrers. His suggestion is first make sure your drill bits are sharp and not dull. second of all start the hole with a smaller drill bit and then go with a larger one. I would imagine for blinds you would need a very small hole. Therefore make sure your drill bit is very small and sharp

Bonnie in Montana

Wood Movement:   Solid wood often warps because it swells and shrinks based on moisture content.   Once warped it usually has memory and when straightened returns to its warped condition.   On the good side, if you use glue properly and figure out how to hold it in place while it sets up, using the warped molding won't hurt a thing.   Look in the archives for other comments on wood movement.

Pete Boorum

Splitting Wood stirrers; I asked my husband about the problem of splitting wood stirrers.   His suggestion is first make sure your drill bits are sharp and not dull. Second of all start the hole with a smaller drill bit and then go with a larger one.   I would imagine for blinds you would need a very small hole. Therefore make sure your drill bit is very small and sharp.

Bonnie in Montana

Clamps: here is the page for those into clamps, like us: http://www.americanwoodworker.com/200204/workshop_tips/  The saw horse and panty hose tips look good too, but I'll let everyone else go and look for themselves.

David

Brushes: The brush I use to paint my dolls is 10/0 and I love it. I get them from House of Caron House of Jackie@HouseofCaron.com She sells various sizes and I've been pleased with all that I've purchased from her.

Viola

Working with leather.   If you are molding leather over a form of some sort then you want time to move it and adjust it.   In which case you want a glue that lets you slide the leather a bit rather than one that grabs immediately.   Mix starch paste with alkaline wood glue in the proportions 50/50.   I use it all the time for bookbinding full scale and minis.

TIP:   If you are working with leather and you want the APPEARANCE of stitched leather, run it through your sewing machine with no thread. It punches the holes nice and even.   Then glue as you would normally. It gives a lovely faux stitched edge.

Barbara B from South Africa

Soldering: I used to do stained glass and made a few things with copper tubing and brass channel framing. I found the materials more difficult to work with than the normal soldering on the copper foil tape that is used to connect the glass pieces. The copper tubing and brass channel framing are thick and require quite a lot of heat applied to them before you can melt the solder. If they're not sizzling hot,the solder melts, puddles up and rolls off.

{1}The metal MUST be truly clean. Any oxidization, finger oil, or dirt on the surface will prevent the solder from adhering. If the metal has been exposed to air for any length of time and has dulled, it is oxidized and needs to be polished with steel wool before you solder.
{2}When using a liquid flux,use a BRUSH, do not dip the soldering iron into the flux, which is a major toxin hazard.
{3}Remember that soldering is dangerous and please work only with adequate ventilation.
{4}Never keep food or beverages near your soldering station.
{5}Always wear safety equipment, especially on your hands and eyes.

Chrissy

To 'iron' thread or silk ribbon: dampen it slightly, and slide it across a CLEAN light bulb! Works great!

Should the light be on or off...well, ON would be hot, off would be cold! lol Hot irons work better! I'm sure what you must have meant was, should you turn it off first...only if the brightness bothers you, and let me also mention, be careful! You CAN burn your fingers! As to the wattage, I don't think it matters, I've done it on bulbs from 60 to 100 watts.

Alice Zinn- Pt. St. Lucie FL

Ironing with light bulbs: Please be very careful with hot bulbs. When I was a teen (and yes, I can remember back that far) I read in a magazine about making one's bedroom smell good by spraying cologne on a hot light bulb. I tried it--it exploded, and I was standing there barefoot in a suddenly dark room with thousands of glass shards on the floor around me, screaming for my dad.

Judy in northern Michigan

Holding things to paint: For holding dishes, and other little things, for painting: one of the best things I found was a little blue-tack (also called fun-tack, quake hold, etc) on top of a golf tee. Put the blue tack on the top of the tee, the dish on the blue tack, and you can hold by the rest of the golf tee. When you're done, you can put it in a piece of packing foam to hold it to dry as you go on to the next dish.

Trish in Sunnyvale, CA

painting small items

Holding things to paint: When painting tiny items, try wrapping double sided masking tape around a popsicle stick about 15 or 20 times. Place the items on the tape to keep them in place while you are painting them. When done you can unwrap the part of the tape that has paint on it and tear it off. Then you are ready to go again.

Shani Nelson

Brush size: I use 10/0 and 18/0 rounds for all the handpainting of flowers and such and for teensy trim on and around the furniture and houses. Usually Cornell. I also use #2 flat that is about 1/8" wide. I notice for some reason beyond me that different brands use the same numbers for larger brushes. I probably always use a smaller brush than I would have to but I do like them. I buy them at Michael's or Hobby Lobby or sometimes at shows.

Fannye in TX