"Chuck"&"turn": That was my offering RE "chucking" in a Dremel and "turning" with an emery board.  I'll cut a real quickie now and if you would like further info, respond direct to me and I will compose a more readable text.

The Dremel tool holds things such as drill bits, tool shanks, etc in a clamp called the "chuck." It is a split cylinder that clamps down on the inserted tool as the nut is tightened over it. USUALLY, it is a tool that we put into the chuck of a Dremel tool, electric drill, router, or other machine. With my suggestion, you would put the piece of wood into the chuck. Hence, "chuck a piece of wood doweling". OK?

Turning is a lathe term. Usually a tool moves while the work piece is held still. For example, you hold a piece of wood in a vice and chuck a drill bit into the chuck of an electric drill. The electric drill makes the bit spin so that it cuts a hole through the wood. With "turning" you move the wood while the cutting tool holds still. In our example, you would have the Dremel tool spinning a short piece of wood dowel. Hold a manicurist's emery board lightly against the spinning wood and it will be quickly reduced to a smaller diameter. O.K.?

With things like wood doweling, this only works for very short pieces of. Under 3/4 of an inch long is best. When longer material is "turned", a real lathe machine is used which supports both ends of the wood while it is spinning so that it cannot bend or flex away from the cutting tool.

If you have a Dremel Tool, take it to your hobby supplier and have them fix you up with the full range of chucks. These come in 4 different sizes to hold different size tool shanks or materials from almost hair sized to about 1/16" diameter.

Mel in Las Vegas

POWER TOOLS: The 1st thing to know is that tools are not gender oriented, however, sometimes we are! Don't let this hold you back from a dream!

The 2nd thing to realize, and you already do, is that there is enough power in those tools to cause some REAL damage! Respect them! Congratulations, you have mastered step one!

3rd in this series is too start small, say a drill or power screwdriver of some kind. Rechargeable tools, which may cost a little more but are worth it, allow you to not fight with the cord and outlet, which usually is too far beyond the project needing the work! Don't forget to pick up the accessories kit(if not included) that have different sizes of attachments. Go around your house and check for loose screws, (these will not be found in your head!), a picture that needs hung, curtain rods that need tightened, etc......

That leads to the 4th step.Try a simple project for your home. Like maybe, a small shelf that the lumber yard could cut the wood you to the size you need and you would assemble.

5. After your newly discovered talent has raised your confidence level a few notches, you might try to visit a store to get some simple building books, sawhorses, tables (which you will use over and over again), planter boxes and benches come to mind.

6. Visit a store that sells power tools and ask for help in deciding what tools you would like to use next. Maybe a router(with bits), or a small bandsaw (don't forget the x-tra blades, cause you will break a few!). Bandsawing is has a lot in common with a sewing machine in the way you maneuver the wood/ fabric. A bandsaw can also be used a WHOLE lot in miniature making! Don't let the salesperson talk you into the top of the line model for professionals(not yet anyway), tell him you will be back for those in the near future. Sears in USA have some great and simple equipment to offer.

I think at this time, your mind will start clicking on how you can do things both in full scale and miniature.

Lisa, Martinsville Indiana

Tools; I've noted a lot of you talk about tools and not knowing what to do with them. I think most women are in the same boat. Men seem to have been born with the knowledge on how to use tools. Don't fear! You too can learn. When I was first married I was so ignorant about tools, that it was, well, embarrassing. I even thought all screwdrivers were supposed to be rounded on the corners. You see, my father was a painter and all of our screwdrivers were worn from opening paint cans. Now one of my prized possessions is a cordless screwdriver that I use constantly and not to open cans with <grin>.

Dremels-I prefer the variable speed one. I have several that I have set up for various uses. I have a flexible shaft that I put those tiny little burrs in to do carving, or the drum sanding disks to do sanding (I use lower speed for this). I have a couple in drill presses that I use for different things. One is set up to drill tiny holes. Another in the drill press I have put a fence (flat stick) along the back to run boards along. That way I can make a piece of molding, route a groove, "plane" a board, make fancy furniture joints called mortise and tenon (like slots and tabs) all with that silly old dremel. I've even used the lowly old dremel in the stand to make incised carving such as in my Connecticut sunflower chest and court cupboard. I've learned all that from practice and from books on full sized tools and from watching more experienced people.

Now as to the band saw. This tool is not for the light at heart. Remember that the band saw is what they use to cut meat and bone with at the grocery store. YOU MUST RESPECT ALL TOOLS! BE SAFE! A band saw has a

continuous blade. It is good for cutting things on the outside. You can't cut say the middle from the letter "O" without cutting through the side of the "O". The width of the blade also determines how little of a circle you can cut. In other words if you have a 1/4" blade you have to make a bigger "O" than you can with a 1/8" blade. Now you can do mini work with it, but it is harder than with a saw like the dremel scroll saw. I have cut cabriole legs (the kind with "S"es on two adjoining sides) on a bandsaw, but I don't recommend it. The blade is too close to your fingers. Didn't mean to write a novel here. Just wanted to pass along "Girls can learn too"

Shannon Moore

Dremel: I have several Dremels including the cordless which has it's uses.

But.......my favorite is the Heavy Duty Flex Shaft. I have a Flex Shaft Stand that clamps to my worktable, extends from 12" to 42" that I hang the Dremel from. This is connected to a Foot Control Pedal. So........The Dremel hangs at the right height for me to use inside or outside the dollhouse or on any other project. I usually leave the stand extended so that I can reach the Dremel to turn it on, but the handpiece is the right height to reach the project.

Fannye in TX

Tools: For anyone looking for a huge variety of tools to work with i.e. scissors, tweezers, files, that sort of thing, this is a good place to go. http://www.widgetsupply.com/

They also carry Dremel accessories and jeweler's tools. I'm not associated with them, but have ordered from them. My order came on time and was complete. The prices are very reasonable, or at least I thought so.

Circle cutter: The circle cutter at Michaels looks similar to that which I bought through Creative Memories (the memory book shop-at-home folks). I LOVE this product, and don't know how I EVER did without something like this for making prom decorations, etc. Yes, you can use it on cardboard, foamcore, etc. It takes a little scoring but VERY effective. Inside is a little knife cutter that you break the knife nibs off of as they dull. Then you simply replace with a cheap new one inside the cutter.

Wendy, Elk Grove, CA

Videos on Tools Usage: Dean Jensen emailed me and told me about the Anker videos on small power tools he used to sell that are carried by Smaller Than Life now.

Quinn

Circle cutters: I have used a circle cutter. They do work, but they can be tricky. The problem is that if it slides at all, there goes your circle. It usually takes more than one try for me. I should think that it would cut matboard and thin cardboard, although you would have to make several passes to get all the way through. And you might have to change your blade more often. So yes I think you might like it, but its not going to be all peaches and cream. I would suggest trying one out before you buy it, if that's at all possible.

Kellie

New Tool: I just received a new tool from Micro Mark that I'm going to love. If any of you have the Chopper this one is a terrific improvement. It is heavy metal. And the thing that kept wearing out on my others is the bed that the blade cuts down on. This one has a replaceable cutting field. It's one of those green self healing cutting mats that fits into a recessed space. I LOVE this tool. Of course I haven't used it yet. But it just makes sense. It is advertised in Dollhouse Miniatures and in their catalog. Now maybe after I actually cut something with it I'll tell more. The chopper was one of my first tools besides the Xacto knife and I really used it a lot.

Fannye in TX

Tools: All this talk about tools makes me a little jealous...I have built somewhere between 25 and 30 houses and 100's of pieces of furniture, both from kits and from scratch with my meager little tools....

a razor saw
coping saw
various size craft knives
fingernail clippers
wire cutters
and the all time standbys; clothes pins, straight pins and rubber bands!!

Jo

Tiny, tiny nails: There is a wonderful product on the market called a "Push Hammer." This looks very like a brad pusher with a big fat handle that fits in the palm of your hand ( It IS a brad pusher). Not expensive, but it allows you to put those tiny nails into the slender snout- place them exactly and "push" the nails into place. No slipping, no pounding. The best nails for this are steel as the inside of the "snout" is magnetized. But with some careful handling it will work for brass too. I sometimes use a tiny dab of tacky glue on the nail head to keep it inside the "pusher." Cleaning it out with a toothpick is easy.

Judie - Daytona Beach, FL

Simple tools: Jo mentioned that she made her many houses with only simple tools. I was glad to hear it. I'm working on my seventh house now (4 kits, 3 rehabs), and I only use simple tools too. I have a jig saw that I've used for one house, but otherwise I use mostly glue, masking tape, paint, small saw and miter block, glue stick, and sandpaper.

Pam G

POLISHING WHEEL: great item to have but BE CAREFUL! those wheels with the polishing compounds on them take the metal down really fast! that would be especially true of some of the mini metals. Don't push (let the wheel do it's job) and do a little at a time.

Ana

Tool tips: If you have access to a bench grinder, you can buy a spindle shaft and buffing wheel to put on one side. I use jewelry compounds on the wheel and buff any metal pieces I want to shine up. You can also use small buffing wheels on a dremel tool with the rouge compound they sell. Clean metal with soapy water afterwards to get rid of the polishing compound. This works especially great on copper, brass and silver.

Other dremel uses: I use mine for so many thing, it is hard to list them all. I especially recommend the add on chuck that is available for the newest models. (It is better than the old chuck that they used to make that fit into a collet- this on screws right on.) This eliminates the hassle of using a chuck key and collets and makes changing bits a snap.

I use the STEEL CUTTERS for woodcarving, they make it easy to take out large amounts of wood quickly. I use the one that look a like mini saws on gourds- they cut partway into the shell...I can finish cutting all the way through with a knife, or leave the cut as a decorative accent. I have also used these bits to modify resin figures- you can remove unwanted accessories and carve on them to make them more appropriate for your use. Smooth out afterwards with a sanding bit and repaint your figure to finish.

Use DIAMOND BITS to carve or grind soft stone. You can also drill and smooth glass. These need to be run with the bit wet or oiled to keep the bit cool while you work.

Use STONE CUT OFF WHEELS to cut metal. If you have a nail sticking out of a piece of wood, you want to cut an opening in a can, etc., this is the bit to use. The wheels are very fragile, so it is especially important to use eye protection to avoid injury from broken discs.

Use STONES for grinding and smoothing metal, sharpening chisels, and other tools. Can be used on other materials, but works best on metal.

Use SANDING DRUMS and wheels when you want to remove soft wood quickly or give a quick smoothing over. Not great for flat surface sanding because they are so small, but perfect for irregular or hard to reach curved areas. The discs will leave a circular pattern, so they aren't good for finish work.

BUFFING WHEELS and compounds finish the job on plastics and metal. Use them to remove scratches and finish edges.

DRILLS are handy for the obvious reasons. You can get ultra fine drills especially great for use in minis.

ROUTER BITS should be used in conjunction with a drill press or router attachment. I use them to put fancy edges on table tops, etc.

Sorry to be so long winded, but I can't imagine how anyone survives in minis without one of these tools!

Bonnie Gibson - Tucson, Arizona

Gold Plating. For the Cinderella Carriage I carved all the metal fittings in brass then gold plated them using a plating pen kit. The kit is available from Rio Grande Jewelry supply house.

The pen plating set is a bit les expensive than a regular electro- plating outfit but it is still an electro-plating process. A hard felt tip is soaked in the plating solution and is placed in the end of the pen which has an electrical hook up to the transformer. A second electrical connection is made to the part. When the pen felt tip touches the part an electrical current flows and it lays a minute layer of gold or nickel on the part.

Before plating with gold you must plate with nickel. This keeps the brass from turning the gold plate pink. Nice thing about the pen set is it uses less (no cyanide) toxic chemicals. Even so it is still toxic so caution is demanded to be safe.

Also it uses acid washes which need to be used in well ventilated space. Even so all my bare metal parts of my equipment have a brown tone to them. Just like the old gun browning or bluing. The lower cost of the pen is still on the high side if you are only using it for one small project.

Bill Hudson, Eugene, Oregon

Pin Setting Tweezers: Thank you, Mary Lynne, for remembering the pin setting tweezers and Pam's method of attaching hinges. A couple of key points: It is always best to pre-drill the holes and pre-fit the hinges. Use a small handheld pin vise, not a Dremel or power drill. The Roo MPG glue is less messy to use than epoxy and works just as well. When dry, clip off the ends of the pins with nippers. Check our web site for pin tweezers, micro pin vises, Roo Glue and Nippers. Sorry, there is no instruction sheet, just watch for classes.

Pete Boorum, On Sebbins Pond, Bedford, NH

Rouge--Sears has had a "rouge kit" for years, although don't quote me as to whether they still do. I bought mine about 10 or 12 years ago. But, the "kit" comes with 4 bars of rouge: Black, which is the most abrasive of the polishes, and is sometimes called "cutting rouge"; Red rouge, used on stones, and other hard items; Brown rouge, used for plastic, bone, brass, copper (softer metals), ivory, etc; and white, which is for the hardest metals such as chrome. One would use the black rouge, initially, to remove the larger and deeper scratches...but not _too_ much, as it will remove material and deform the surface if polished too aggressively. Then one would move on to the others, brown rouge being the most universal of the four, enabling a bright, mirror-like surface.

Another great use for rouge, particularly the white or black, is to rub it on a leather strop for sharpening blades. I use to help keep an edge on all of my carving blades. I have a leather strop attached to a piece of wood, shaped with a handle. Rub the rouge on it, and draw the blade _away_ from the edge, keeping the angle at about 15 degrees for an X-acto, a bit more for knives, depending on the toughness of the material they are expected to cut. (I give classes in sharpening at the local wood carvers club, on occasion.) It polishes the edge to a mirror finish, and keeps it extra sharp...shaving sharp!

Dave Pierce

Woodworking Supplies: Cherry Tree Toys - Hobby and woodworking supplies. Outstanding company. I've been dealing with them since they first began 17 years ago.... http://www.cherrytree-online.com/

Judie

Removable Glues:

1)"MUSEUM WAX" is clear wax and is made by TREVCO in San Marcos, CA 92069. They have a toll free phone 800-959-4053 and a web site http://www.quakehold.com This is my personal favorite and we actually use it for some of our exhibits, in the deYoung and Getty Museums.  Some regions of the country may know this product as "QUAKEHOLD!" or as "COLLECTORS' HOLD".  It is non-acidic, non-toxic and reversible--great on glass and ceramic and does not mark or stain wood. It comes in giant jars.

2)  "QUAKEHOLD MUSEUM PUTTY" is also by TREVCO and is this company's original product but its consistency is more like putty and it has a neutral/creme color.  It is also reusable and non-toxic but is NOT recommended for porous, felt, fabric or newly painted surfaces and sometimes leaves an oily residue. I use it on vases and figurines and to anchor pictures (mini and regular) to the walls.  Here it comes in pieces in flat packaging.

3)  "QUAKEHOLD!GEL"  is also by TREVCO and is just what it says it is a CLEAR GEL..  I find that it works best for glass and crystal.  It comes in a clear jar with a white top.

4)  "MINI-HOLD" by Handcraft Designs from Haafield, PA 19440 is also a wax adhesive and comes in small orange tub.  Personally, I don't like the consistency as much as Museum Wax but each of us is different. 5) "MOVEABLE MINIATURES GLUE" is  a liquid and is more difficult to find - ---comes in a bottle just like nail polish with a brush.  I use it on my smallest, most delicate items and have had no problems with glass, metal, plastic or wood and it remains tacky for about an hour so you can change your mind.

Sara from Corte Madera

Rotozip: Yes, I have one. I use it occasionally. If you want to cut a straight line, I find the best way is to hold a scrap on wood, pushing it down against the work piece with my left hand, and use my right hand to move the Rotozip, keeping it pushed tight against the scrap piece. Proceed slowly and with deliberation.

Tom Berkner

Cutting foamcore: I have a full size table saw and I use it to cut foamcore. I just use the blade that comes with it and have had no problem. You just have to allow for the thickness of the blade when you are butting your foamcore against the straight edge.

Elizabeth