Removing excess glue from wood: When I took a millwork class I was told to never wipe off excess wet glue. Wait until it dries and then gently scrape it off. Using chemicals allows the glue to seep into the pores of the wood and prevents stain from working evenly.

Jacqui in Hilo, HI

Flush cutting saw: For all wanting to know about the flush cutting saw, the one I use is made by Zona and available through Dee's. It has 16 teeth per inch with a .012" thick blade. The blade is flexible and the teeth have no set so they will cut off dowels, plugs, and pegs flush without marring the work surface. It cuts on the "pull" stroke. It doesn't have that extra ridge on the top of the blade like the blades we use with our X-acto and Excel handles, so it cuts "flush."

Jackie

Flush saws: I think what is being called a "flush saw" is a Japanese saw which is used to cut flush with the wood surface. The saw is flexible and some have teeth on both sides of the blade (small and smaller teeth). The saw has almost no kerf to speak of.

DrBob, Delray Beach, FL

A tool tip: When cutting wood, metal, plexi or whatever with a saw blade, the thinner the stock you are cutting the more teeth per inch of blade you must have to achieve good results.

Barb Jones, Cupertino, CA

Cutting Plexiglass: I have cut Plexiglass on a band saw. First I put a strip of masking tape in the approximate area I want to cut. Then I draw my cutting line ON THE MASKING TAPE. Then I cut on that line. Repeat the "tape it, mark it, cut it" steps for all other cuts desired. The tape seems to keep the Plexiglass from chipping along the edges. After all the cuts are made, remove the masking tape and CAREFULLY sand the edges. Don't sand the surface, it scratches easily! Dry fit the Plexiglass to the place you want it to go. NOW remove the clear plastic that came on each side of the Plexiglass and put it into place. If you are going to glue it in place, test the glue on a scrap first. Some glues will cloud the Plexiglass - some kind of chemical reaction.

NOTE: Be sure the table of the band saw is clean and smooth. Sharp scraps from previous cutting or sharp parts of the surface can scratch the Plexiglass. (My DH cuts aluminum sometimes on our band saw, so I tape down poster board to insure a clean, smooth surface.)

Ann in AZ

Cutting Plexiglass: To cut Plexiglass use a table saw. It's a good idea to put a drilling and tapping fluid on the blade (unplug the saw cord first!) to reduce friction. I always use a full face mask when I cut it as the "sawdust" does tend to sting when it hits your skin because it is hot. It does snap like glass if it is the thinner plastic. To score the line use the back of an X-Acto knife blade - probably the heavier model would be best.

June in London Ontario Canada

Cutting Plexiglass: I've been cutting Plexiglass using my cordless circular saw. It comes out perfect. I cut it in varying lengths and widths to use on the walls of my real house. I am slowly repainting and I realized that where I put the pressure gates in the doorways to keep the fur kids in or out, the wall gets imprints or the paint gets scraped away. So, I paint it nice and then screw in a nice piece of Plexiglass where the gates go. I do the same on my bedroom door where they scratch to get in.

Kathy Henry (South Florida)

Cutting Plexiglass: I personally feel sawing is not a good option, unless trying to cut curved line. I also feel cutting it on a table saw is too dangerous for the amateur. It has a nasty habit of kickback, and I have some holes in the wall to prove it. Main problem is that the heat of the blade, either table or jig, melts the plastic. Best solution is to get a knife especially for scoring Plexiglass from a hardware store. It has sort of a hook-shaped blade, so as you draw in towards you, it will score the Plexiglass. Depending on your strength, thickness, etc., it may take as few as 2 or 3 passes, or maybe up to 10 or more to get a good score. Then place the score line on edge of SHARP edged table and snap the Plexiglass. Until you get the hang of it, you will probably ruin a few pieces. I use a steel ruler as a guide and clamp it to the Plexiglass so the knife doesn't wander off the first score. Most glass stores will cut it for you, but check around, as there are wide variations in what they charge. In my small town glass shop, the cost for the Plexiglass and their cuts were dirt cheap, cheaper than just buying Plexiglass at home supply stores. Instead of Plexiglass, you might also consider polycarbonate - Lexon is one brand name. It is less likely to scratch and a little stronger, although for the front of a room box, extra strength isn't a factor.

Dean Jenson

Cutting Plexiglass:

#1 - Score both sides with a utility (Stanley) knife or a plastic cutter which looks like a metal hook with a sharp point. Place the cut over the sharp edge of a table, press down on the free side and it will "pop" apart.

#2 - I like this method best. Place masking tape on both sides where the cut will be. Very importantly, it eliminates chipping. I have a 4" table saw with a carbide blade. It just cuts like butter and the blade cools as it rotates. A jig saw doesn't work as the blade has no way of cooling and the heat will melt the plastic.

DON'T use a glass cutter, it will ruin it.

Ruth Mazur, Grass Valley, CA

Glue: Periodically, the subject of glue comes up.  My husband is a woodworker, and has found a new, fabulous glue!!  I used it when I was making my mini scenes in 16" wreaths for Xmas.  It is called PROBOND-made by Elmer's.  It is a polyurethane glue, waterproof, bonds anything to anything, is paintable/stainable, etc.  Takes 24 hrs to cure.  During the curing process, it expands to fill gaps & further penetrate porous surfaces.  Once glued-always glued!!  It's great when you need extra strength. For porous surfaces, you wipe both surfaces with a damp cloth about 1 minute before you clamp the pieces together.  For nonporous, you apply glue to 1 side and damp wipe the other surface.  The water helps to make the bond.  To make my wreaths, I used it for the 1/2" foam core and it worked great.

Ninalu in CA

Tools: Ron Stetkowitz makes and sells a pair of needle nose pliers that has a "T" groove in the tip to hold the small nails for hinges.  You hold the nail in the tip of the pliers and push it into the hole in the hinge.  After the nail is started, release the pliers and use the blunt tip to seat the nail.  I always dip the tip of the nail in a bit of carpenter's glue before inserting in the hole. It dries clear and holds better.  I don't have the address for Ron, but I'm betting someone out there does.

Spencer Stall

Tools: I use the pliers and they are great. His address is:

Ron Stetkewicz
HCR 1, Box 61B
Cairo, NY 12413

518-622-8311
Fax 972-634-0073
email skhardware@aol.com

Rosemarie Torre

Removing odors from your work: I use the dryer product called "Bounce" in my tool boxes and it keeps a fresh smell instead of that dank humid Florida aroma. I imagine it would be less daunting then spraying a product onto surfaces. I just take a sheet of bounce and toss it into the tool box. To reduce moisture and odor, try a charcoal briquette. I break a few briquettes and toss them into the tool boxes also. Tools can handle the loose charcoal. For the mini's, the broken briquette can be placed in a "sack" of old panty hose to keep the charcoal from getting onto things.

Dr. Bob

Decoupage liquid:  I use the decoupage liquid as a glue and over the top of the fabric or paper as a sealer. The surface I am "gluing" to will have a coat of paint or primer on it so the decoupage liquid doesn't soak in & disappear. This liquid comes in Gloss or Matte,so you can get shiny or dull finishes on paper. It doesn't matter on fabric, as far as my experience goes.

Ann in AZ

Cutting Tubing:The best way to cut brass tubing is by using an X-Acto miter saw and miter box.  Use the fine tooth blade.  I have been using my original one I got back in high school in 1948.  It still cuts the brass just fine.  That is the way I have my students cut the tubing in my Guild School Class for my projects.  Hold the tube tightly against the back fence and start the cut by dragging the blade backwards on the first cut then saw as normal.  Do not force the saw. Let it cut at its own speed.

Bill Hudson, Eugene, OR

Gluing Agate: Dean Jensen (RainbowDJ@AOL.com) has a glue called Roo that he swears by. There is one formulation for wood and another for glass and metal. Someone else is actually selling the stuff and if you contact Dean, he will tell you. He's a nice, talented guy and he just loves the stuff, so it must work.

Jeanne

Gluing Agate: Try using a glue called Weldbond. If your local miniature shop doesn't have it, Home Depot does. At Home Depot it comes in a 16 oz. bottle, I think. Its a white tacky glue but it sticks anything to anything without marring the surface.

Mary Kay

Glue: This site tells you which glues are best for which products. It is http://thistothat.com

Sandy

Gluing Agate: I have used Quick Grab to glue a slice of agate to a pile of mini books (actually they were wooden) and it worked just fine.

Roz Weitzman

Gluing Agate: I have made coffee tables from agate slices - they make beautiful table tops. I just used regular old Tacky glue to attach them to my wooden bases. Weldbond would probably be better though.

Beth