Dremel Cords: I also have one of the older models with a cord. To solve the problem, I use one of the clamp attachments with a spring rod that were made to attach to the ironing board and keep the cord out of the way. Works great for the dremel and is east to transport.

Becky

Starting with Tools: You need tools, instruction and practice to develop skills. You may need talent for some things, but that talent is often hidden under the veil of ignorance. Working with someone who has a skill and the right tools will unleash talent with practice. Find someone who knows how to use a Dremel and ask them to show you how to make something with it. Your teacher will love showing you and demonstrating a skill. Then you will need to acquire tools and practice, practice, practice.

My advice to those of you who get discouraged or can't figure out how to use a Dremel, turn a leg, wire a room or use an air brush is to join (or start) a club if you can. Most people who have developed skills enjoy sharing them. It is possible to gain skills in a vacuum, but needlessly hard in most cases. As far as talent goes, you may discover that you have plenty of hidden talent once you have developed a skill.

Pete Boorum

Dremel: I have both the cordless and corded models and find that the corded has much more power. In fact, best results are when using a motor speed control unit. This gives much more control depending on the project. Needles to say the cordless is much handier to use.

Lexie

Learning to use tools: For videotape instructions on tool usage, and many other topics including dollhouse tours, N.A.M.E. has lots of videotapes you can borrow. If you are not already a member, this would be a good excuse to join.

Dean Jenson

Inland band saw: The Inland saw does not come with a wood cutting blade, but one can be ordered. Beyond that, I know nothing!

Wood blades have more "set" to their teeth, so they cut a slightly wider "kerf" out of the wood. This aids cooling, keeps wood from burning, etc. and is rather important. Metal and glass cutting blades have much less kerf. Please spend the money on the right blade, for whatever saw you use.

Barb Jones

Battery saw: I just purchased a black and Decker cordless saw. It is great but noisy, I got it at Wall Mart for $49.95. Then yesterday I decided to go ahead and get the Makita Cordless saw I ordered two weeks ago. It is much better than the Black and Decker for my arthritic hands, the safety is easier to use and it is quieter and has more power. I had to order it and they hit me with full price. I think I will set up the B&D for a table saw, put in a separate switch and tape the safety switch open. If you get the battery saw be sure to get extra batteries to be charging extra while using one. (or two for B&D)

Second hand Rhoda

Black and Decker Sander: Someone mentioned buying a Black and Decker Screwdriver at Wal-Mart so thought I would mention that they also have a great sander for us miniaturists - it is called the Mouse and is also by Black and Decker ($39.95). The shape and size is perfect for us in every way!

Sheena

Chuck and turn:  At the end of a Dremel moto tool opposite the end where the electrical cord is there is a device to hold tools like drill bits. It is called a chuck. There is also a chuck on the business end of any drill, electrical or not- a drill press or a lathe, to name just a few. There are many types and sizes of chucks, but in each case a chuck is a device to hold either a tool or a workpiece (such as wood or metal you are working on) in the tool so you can work with it

So, to chuck a piece of wood (in this case perhaps a dowel or toothpick), is to stick the piece of wood in the chuck to hold it tight. Then, as the Dremel turns or revolves(in mid air if necessary), the miniaturist suggested that you use an emery board leaning against the wood piece to sand it down to size. As the tool goes round and round with the piece of wood in it, the emery board can be held still against the wood and it sands it evenly all around.

Barb Jones

Black and Decker Mouse sander. It is a little bigger than a computer mouse and has a nice weight and feel. It is shaped a bit like a small iron with a point for getting in to corners. I really like it, I got my entire shell sanded in about 30 min and it is not too loud.

Jeannette in San Jose

Tool Holder (for real tools): I took a regular piece of 2x2 about two feet long and drew a centerline down the length of one side. Then I marked off locations every inch. I drilled these out with a 3/4"spade drill bit. Drill only 3/4 of the way through. That makes a bottom to keep tools from falling through. This is set at the back of my bench and I keep all my tools I am using for the project in the holes. One handle of pliers will fit in a hole and you can see what kind of pliers or nipper is there as the jaws are up. Also works great for small files, knives, screwdrivers, paintbrushes, tweezers, scissors etc. All are handy to reach and put back. It takes a little practice and determination but it works. So simple.

Bill Hudson

Space on the workbench: Great tip Bill, to keep your tools that way. An other thing that I find very handy: usually I have an extra piece of wood (e.g. 6mm MDF) on the bench and work on that. When I suddenly need the bench for something else, I only have to lift the piece of wood with everything on it and put it aside (often the bonnet of the car LOL) without disturbing what I'm working on. That way you're back to it in no time without disturbing your pattern of laying out things.

Dorothee, Katikati

Hobby benches: Build a case as if you were building a cabinet for shelves. Install wooden cleats where shelves will set. Cut shelves to fit loosely and do not anchor down. Slide out each shelf and apply lips around the sides and back of the top. Cut or nail a pull on the shelf. Now these shelves can be pulled out and placed on your work surface as a little workbench top. If you need to stop in middle of project and start on another, return this one to the case and pull out a new one to work on.

Bill Hudson

Tool Holder: I took 15" long pieces of 2 x 4's, and made three alternating rows of holes - large, medium, small and even a row of teeny (corsage pins) Using stick on lettering I put names on them to use as silly Christmas gifts.

Dawn

Glue gun Alternative: For shingling dollhouses and outhouses, wishing wells, etc, I use a glue pot, with a skewer for application. I have too much arthritis for a glue gun, all the scrap glue goes back in the pot. I have seen smaller glue pots in the craft section of Wal-Mart.

Rhoda Conley

Aleene's Removable Glue: I have had very good results using the removable glue made by Aleene's. It is called Aleene's Stick it Over and Over. It is not supposed to leave any marks on surfaces. I have only had problems with marks on unfinished wood. I have used it stick down everything in my Farmhouse to protect it from my little boy knocking things over-- it really holds tight, even though the bond is not permanent. Just a firm wiggle undoes the bond, and you can stick it someplace else! It also dries clear so you can't even tell things are stuck in place.

Michelle Fox

Glue Sticks in Color: You can buy the glue for your mini glue guns in all different colors now. I got mine at a craft store in the Bay Area called Beverly's. I decided to dig out a package so I could tell you more. It is by Surebinder - 40 to the packet in multi colors including Neon plus Gold & Silver glitter. The mini sticks are 4" x 0.28" and you can buy them in round and oval, depending on what kind of glue gun you have. Makes wonderful icing on cup cakes so I bought several cheap mini glue guns at WalMart ($1.87 ea.) and keep one for each color of glue.

This is what it says on the back of the package:

FPC Corp.
355 Hollow Hill Drive
Wauconda IL 60084

Phone: (847) 487-4583
FAX: (847) 487-0174
e-mail: glueguns@aol.com

Sheena

Cutting small projects: If you don't have a jigsaw and don't want to invest in one, look for a coping saw or jeweler's saw. Coping saws should be available any place that sells tools - your local hardware store, Home Depot, Menard's, Sears..... Jeweler's saws are harder to find, but I'm sure MicroMark has them. It's the same principle - outline the window, drill the hole, detach the saw blade, put it through the hole you drilled....etc. But you supply the power.

Jeweler's saws are smaller, easier to handle, and come with finer blades, giving you a cleaner cut. The only problem with them its that sometimes the throat (the part that bends around in a square c shape and holds the blade at both ends) can be too small to take the piece of wood you want to cut.

Nancy Norris

Cutting small projects: not a coping saw, the blade teeth are too coarse for 1/4" scale work and will leave a very splintered and jagged edge in that scale. A jewelers saw is best and you can get very fine blades. Also, you have to buy blades by the dozen, as they do break easily, but they are inexpensive.

Jeanne, San Anselmo, CA

Cutting small projects: When I have to cut small pieces on my Dremel scroll saw, since the hole in the plate is too big, I take a piece of Plexiglass and cut a slot in it about half way through. Then I use two small clamps to hold it in place on the plate. This allows me to make these small cuts without losing the piece into the saw. You can get a small piece of Plexiglass form any glass shops' scrap pile. Measure your saw table and ask them to cut a matching piece for you. It might cost you a couple of bucks, but it's well worth it.

Spencer

Saws: a jeweler’s saw is often cheaper and better if you get it from a jeweler’s supply house or get a fret saw with a deeper C from a tool supply shop.

June Simpson in London Ontario Canada