Tools and Glue Page: 41 |
Grip Glue: Unless there is another one I don't know about, you are probably referring to Instant Grrrip which is made by Bond. I use it extensively on just about everything. Only drawback is that is hard to find....it is usually not in your regular craft store. Dawnsminis |
Grip Glue: I love Grip glue. Got mine from Hobby Builders Supply, mail order. Marjorie in CA |
Flexible Shaft: a flexible shaft performs best if used from an overhead position . Either place your Dremel on a shelf over the workbench or hang the Dremel high enough over the workbench to keep from kinking the shaft. Carol Wagner |
Mitering plywood: A good tool for miniaturists who are building doll houses should be a skill saw of some sort. Although Skill is a brand name it has become the accepted name of all such saws, just like Crescent wrench for adjustable wrenches. The purest may say "hand held circular saw," That is ok but Skill saw works for me (and most others). These can be found at many hardware stores or home improvement stores. If you are only cutting plywood I would recommend the smaller ones with maybe a four inch blade. They come in several brand names. Many are rechargeable which is nice as you do not have to mess with a cord. An extra battery is nice if you are doing a lot of cutting. Be sure to get one with a tilting table and make sure when it is set at 45 degrees for a miter cut there is enough blade beyond the table to cut through at least a 3/4' thick sheet. These little saws work great for cutting plywood sheet down to size and also for mitering. They usually require a guide, (good straight piece of wood) clamped to the wood being cut, to run the table edge against while cutting. Since the blade cuts upwards always cut with the poor side of the wood up. Also get a panel cutting blade (fine teeth) for finer cut. To prevent (decrease) splintering of the wood by the blade put masking tape over the cut line or score it first with a knife blade. Bill Hudson |
Cutting metal tins: My wife asked me to reply to someone who would like to know how to cut an opening in a tea tin to be used as a small room box. The biggest concern is safety, since you will be working with an abrasive cutoff wheel and will encounter flying grit. I ALWAYS wear safety glasses or a face shield and a dust mask. First apply masking tape to the approximate outline of the hole. Then mark the exact hole to be cut out with a felt tip pen. If the tin has a border or some art work that is to remain showing at the edge of the hole, then skip the tape and marking pen and follow this border. I use a Dremel tool with fiberglass reinforced cutoff wheels. These are about 1-3/8 inch diameter and 1/32 thick. I've found the non-reinforced wheels to be very fragile and break a lot. Speed should be about mid-range on the Dremel for thesewheels. To do the actual cutting, I sit down, both feet on the floor, and cover my lap with a large towel or pillow case to control the flying grit. Then, holding the tin in my left hand and the tool in my right hand I rest both wrists on my legs. The idea here is to have a very firm base for both tool and tin because the wheel can grab easily, causing damage to the tin or to you. I rotate the tin clockwise about 45 degrees so I'll be cutting at a comfortable angle. Starting on the right hand side of the hole and about 1/4 inch from the top of the hole, I gently ease the wheel into the tin until the wheel is about 1/8 inch through. Then carefully move the tool along the line until about 1/4 inch from the corner. The plan is to cut all four sides first, then go back and cut the corners last. This way, you won't have to deal with the center cut-out flopping around while trying to finish your cutting. For tins that have a border around the hole, it is safer to rough cut about 1/32 or more from the border, then go back and finish cut to the line. Remember that the tool will skid along the surface sideways marring the surface without warning, so really pay attention when starting the cuts. Once the hole is cut out, use a six inch flat file to smooth the edges and gently file away burrs on the inside and outside. I have used this procedure to cut holes in tea tins, aluminum coffee pots, large steel enameled coffee pots, and copper tea pots. The main thing to remember is to go slowly and very carefully to avoid mishaps. Good luck! Jim Nielsen - Wisconsin |
Square Corners and Straight Walls: My favorite tool for helping the glue hand is: A book rack. The sliding kind that has one sliding end that pushes up to keep the books upright. Mine is made on dowels, one end secure, the other slides. I put my base down and fit one end against the solid end. Move it out slightly and add glue. Add the other end, doing the same thing. When you're ready to leave it to dry, wedge a ruler or stick (pre measured and cut) lightly against the inside of the walls to hold them upright. Bingo! Straight Walls, Secure glued joints. If you're worried about gluing the project to the rack, put down plastic wrap or spray the rack with WD-40. Judie |
Dremel Repair: I have found Dremel does not repair tools that have been discontinued. Instead they will offer a new tool at a reduced price, but may be at a higher price than a discount store. I have located a company that may be able to repair older Dremel tools. I understand it is not associated with Dremel Corp, but run by a relative of the man who invented the MotoTool. Dremel Repairs, 4631 East Sunny Dunes, Palm Springs, CA 92264 -- 619-327-3003 Dean Jenson |
Tools for dollhouse carpentry: X-Acto knife, X-Acto saw and miter box.,masking tape, Ailene's tacky glue, Quickgrab glue, rubber bands several sizes. Then you can use these tools too, though more cost: Dremel scroll saw, Dremel cordless tool and bits, pin vise, and drill bits in miniature, woodworking clamps small. Second hand Rhoda |
Rainbow Design Items: Yes, due to health, I can no longer make miniatures. Fortunately, I have been able to find people to continue making most of the things I made. Also Roo Glue, thin glass and Anker items will continue to be available. I hope all of you will continue to give these people the wonderful support you have given me since I started Rainbow Design in 1984. RAINBOW DESIGN ITEMS (1 and Quarter Inch scales): Paddy Culhane ROO GLUE retail and wholesale: Sandy’s Lace and Trim ANKER TEMPLATES for Duplicator: Smaller Than Life, Pete Boorum ANKER VIDEO INSTRUCTION TAPES Smaller Than Life, Pete Boorum THIN GLASS George Wrisley Dean Jenson |
Glue Bottles: Are the stainless steel tip glue bottles everyone is talking about the one that is on the bottom of page 58 of the new Micro Mark with the accordion bottle? I mostly use the plastic syringe- I use a rubber (plastic) end that you put on the end of your knitting needles to keep your work from coming off on the end, it keeps the glue from drying out and is easy to put on and off. Also here in Nevada you can easily get the 1 oz. and 2 oz. thick bottom "shot glasses" that won't tip over to keep my glue bottles and syringes upside down in. Kathleen |
Glue Bottles: About stainless steel ball-headed pins, I have found that the only way to know which are solid stainless and which are plated, is to try them. Some plated will work for a few months and then start rusting. I like to cut my pins short for 'stopping' my glue syringe, and of course if the pins are just plated... well... bad luck. I tried the plastic from a price tag holder, but it was not satisfactory for me. Probably I had one that was too flimsy. I use a monoject syringe for my glue, and have done for years. I used to sell the syringes. They are curved, which is a big bonus as far as I am concerned. Anyway, we bought them from a Dental Supply House and they are normally used for root canals, ugh. So ask you dentist! Joy Parker |
Scissors: I paid a visit to Michael’s the other day and came away with some interesting off-brand scissors similar to the type Fiskar’s, et. al., makes for edging stuff in scrapbooks. What’s important about these is that a) they're only $2 each (instead of 4.99 - 7.50), and b) there are several that have fancy patterns in sizes that can be used nicely in minis. For example, I tried them out to edge stationery and envelopes between 1/4" and 5/8" wide, and at least 3 different styles gave a clean, unusual, fancy edge to them. A 4th style has little 1/8" scallops, kind of like waves in a decoupage picture, and a 5th one has a row of big scallops (about 5/8" each), and --get this-- each scallop has 7 or 8 mini "pinked" points cut out, each of which is smaller than a pinhead. All for $10! Lynn O’Shaughnessy |
Scallop Scissors: A vendor (Hansens, I think) at the Ben Ali show demonstrated using the scallop/fancy edge scissors to cut thin sheets of wood veneer, creating wonderful trims. They also used hole punches, both round and fancy, to add details to theveneer. Lee |
EZ Cutter: I bought the EZ Cutter after looking at the picture that was sent out. I've used it twice and it is much easier to keep track of the angle you are cutting. Those marks help a lot. Also like the fact that they have replacement blades available right up front. It is certainly a lot cheaper than the German import one. I've had that one for many years now. I think this new one will be quite nice for the tool box. I can't always fit my chopper in my there. MaryLou |
Mitre Cutters: I have the German made hand held mitre cutter that Brooke Tucker recommended for one of her workshops that I took. I have never regretted that purchase. I use it for many things and have never had a problem with it crushing or moving the wood. I get crisp, clean cuts out of it. Been a great tool for trims on my wicker and for cutting siding and shingles. Since that time we have discovered that Lee Valley Tools has an excellent hand held mitre cutter for less than a 1/4 of the price of the German one. From what we've compared, there is no difference in quality. They don't have it on their web page but it is in their catalogue. www.leevalley.com And for you Americans - it's Canadian Dollars - bonus! For doing parquet flooring with mitred corners I have another tool recommended by Brooke. Micromark sells two. One is large and one is small. They are for cutting mitred corners. Can't remember exactly what they are called though. They cut with templates and single sided razor blades mounted on a handle. What this tool allows you to do (especially the longer one) is cut out numerous lengths of wood to all the EXACT same length and then cut the mitred corners off them without loosing any of the necessary length . Every single piece is the exact same size and shape. No guessing and that exactness is the key to a floor that looks good. Works great for framing too. Nothing worse than making a frame and one side is just a eensy weensy bit too long or too short compared to the other matching side. Doesn't happen with this tool. There is also a similiar tool, again made in Canada that I find is better made. Don't know that it is any cheaper but I prefer it. It is made by Don Everett of Ontario. Debi |
Removing Glue: To get the glue off that lovely mirror try a product called DeBonder. It is the solvent for Zap-a-Gap glue but will dissolve lots of glues, though some take longer than others. I've used this product to soften wood glue, contact cement, white glue, etc. Sue |
Weldbond is really good stuff. I use it almost exclusively except for another very good white tacky...GRRRIP. Weldbond I use for all of the heavy duty construction and wood gluing and the GRRRIP I like for fabric, paper, fimo. Mary Kay |
I LOVE weldbond! I have been using this glue for 7 yrs. It is thicker than Elmers and thinner than tacky, it dries clear and will glue unlike substances together. You can get it at Home Depot and Ace Hardware, and Michaels. It is used in construction to strengthen concrete. Great for minis!! Sue Thwaite |
Glue Search site: While I was researching metal glues on the net I found "This to That". You tell this search aide what materials you need to glue (fabric to leather, paper to vinyl, metal to metal, etc), and it gives you suggestions, with links to web sites. Mindy in the Wilds of PA |
Sawing Mini Wood: I have used everything from a 4" Dremel or Jarmac table saw to a Sears 12" table saw to cut mini wood sizes safely. I also use the Anker trim saw, but have no use for the Anker cut off saw that I own because a regular table saw works as well. The tricks, with all these saws, are two: 1. Keep the saw blade height as low as possible to still be high enough to cut all the way through the wood. Most table saw accidents are at least partially attributable to a saw blade set too high. 2. Use a slide table on the saw. A slide table is simply a piece of plywood, Masonic or Plexiglas (about 12" x 12" for a 4" saw) with a runner or runners on the bottom so that it slides across the table in those grooves table saws have. With a 1/2" x 1" (or higher) board across each end at 90 degrees to the saw, and a wooden jig that looks like a 90 degree isosceles triangle, you can cut one or a dozen pieces of wood to exactly the size you want, and fast. With one more simple jig you can cut dozens of pieces of wood to exactly the same size with angled ends for picture frames. When using a slide table you can not only do all kinds of jigging easily, the wood you are cutting stays in one place on the slide table and it is the entire slide table moves past the saw blade. No catching on edges of the saw, no thin pieces dropping down between saw blade and table, etc., etc. etc. By the way, for those of you who are not familiar with table saws, the 4" or 12" or 7" referred to at the beginning are the diameters of the saw blades used on particular table saws. So, a "7" table saw" is really a table saw with a 7" diameter blade. Last time I looked Micro-Mark sold slide tables for the Dremel 4" saw that are ready made. If you ever buy one, email me after you receive it and I will tell you what small piece of wood to add to greatly increase its safety. Bob, Sears sells metal rails that fit the 7" saw table slots for making your own slide table for a larger saw. If you don't understand all this and need to, feel free to ask questions. Barb Jones, Cupertino, CA |
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