Air Brush. I have been using an external mix Paache air brush to spray lacquer or shellac for many years. I mix it about 1;1 with thinner or alcohol and use about 28 psi. I use a full scale compressor with a tank which is very nice. When I spray I have a Badger booth that exhausts to the outside through a dryer hose. I also use one nitrile glove and a carbon respirator. It is very quick and I get good results.

Pete Boorum

Miter Scissors: I carry the "Easy Cutter" by Midwest. www.JBsDollhousesMiniatures.com

Jackie

New Glue: I want to share info about new glue I discovered at Michaels. Aleene's now has a glue that is called Quick Dry Tacky Glue. It is great. I've only been using it for about 2 weeks, and it has worked so well with glueing different things together that I think I will have to go get a couple more bottles! I've tried it with fabric, wood, and doll hair. It was about the same price as the regular tacky.

Gabrielle

DREMEL TUTORIAL; Part 1

A tool is only an aide to assist you in doing the work you intend to do. It is supposed to save time and effort, nothing more. How you know and handle the tool will determine the result.

The Dremel Tool Company makes a variety of tools all of which are very good for their specific purpose. But there are a few that can be used in the vast majority of construction in our hobby of miniatures. Like the all American peanut butter, which is so basic as every parent and child knows; but when you become innovative and put the peanut butter between two pieces of chocolate you have created a whole new dimension. It is the same with some of the Dremel tools. Therefore I will concentrate on what I think is the basic tools and get a bit innovative. It may not be as good as peanut butter between chocolate but then again everyones taste is different.

To be discussed;

Moto tools; variable and one speed.

Flex shaft.

Scroll saw.

Accessories.

It is my personal preference; I have used the above equipment almost extensively and with some variations (tips; jigs and hints) I have used them to the exclusion of all the others. At this time I would suggest everyone interested log onto <Dremel .com> and request a catalogue. It is free. This way you will have a picture and  explanation of the item I may be discussing.

I will intentionally try to avoid the use of Item #'s to lessen confusion.  Item #'s can be found in the catalog.

As I complete each section I will post it. I might suggest you print it so you can read and look at an item in the catalog at the same time. Or if you own the piece of equipment I am talking about you can handle or (your choice); caress it. I do.

DrBob...Delray Beach, FL.

Glue gun:    the glue sticks for glue guns come in at least two heat ranges. That may be why results vary from person to person. A hot store window or a hot car will melt the glue of even the higher heat range glue sticks, I have watched it happen. If you still have the choice, why take the chance?

Barb Jones

Glues: And speaking of glue, I now import Aliphetic and Super Aliphetic glues which are terrific for putting houses together when you are also nailing or using clamps. They have some tackiness, fill gaps and when you do models they can take a stain. They were specially designed for the thin, tab construction houses like Greenleaf or Corona.

Deanna from beautiful downtown Thiensville

My secret to a permanent shingled roof is to use Quick Grab which should be used sparingly. I work with enough for 5-6 shingles at a time, because the glue sets up fast and sometimes the phone rings.

At first when I started doing houses for others I used Liquid Nails in a caulk gun. It was a bit messy but I learned quickly to control it. However, when I was out of it 2 years later I used Quick Grab, and I haven't gone back. I work fast and don't want to worry about shingles sliding or coming loose later. I've repaired child damaged roofs done with glue guns. For that I'm thankful, because the shingles are usually loose and can be pulled out or I can loosen them with a hair dryer. Those houses done with glue guns that have been stored in attics also tend to wilt. Quick Grab costs more, but it's worth it.

Deanna from beautiful downtown Thiensville

Repairing resin: I use silicon to glue resin.  Use all you want as the excess will readily peel off when it's dry.

Carol, S P Miniatures

Repairing resin: Cathy asked for the best glue for repairing resin figures etc.   I've found that Quick Grab works the best on resin for me.

Alice Zinn- Pt. St. Lucie FL

Repairing resin:   I use super glue gel.   (I like the gel because it doesn't run - and I don't end up with my fingers glued together!!)   

Patty Johnson

Miter cutting:   Others will have suggestions for a saw to do fine miter cuts. May I offer my personal alternative? For very fine miter cutting such as mini picture frames, gingerbread on 1/144th scale houses, and such - - - -I prefer to chop off square and a little bit long. Then, I trim to size and angle with a small disc sander.

I have wood pieces that fit snugly on the work table, snugly close to the sanding disc, and with guide pieces at a variety of angles to orient work pieces along. Photo copy a fine scale (ruler) onto sticky back paper and apply it along the guides as a gauge for length. Make many so they can be occasionally replaced when unreadable from many pencil marks. My own sander has the advantage of a moveable disc so I can put stops in place and run the abrasive into the work piece but a fixed disc and moving the work piece into it works almost as well for limited production.      

I cut out my own sanding discs with concentric rings of 320, 440, and 800 grit and get months of light usage by occasionally cleaning out any accumulated sawdust with a gum eraser.  

Mel K. Las Vegas Nevada

Small table saws: The Preac is NOT any more accurate than the Jarmac, Microlux, or probably various others!   The no longer built Dremel saw did have a problem with the blade movement, but it was easily fixed as shown in The Scale Cabinetmaker.   The accuracy of any of these saws is basically in the hands of the user.   The Jarmac and Microlux are both tilting arbor saws, which means you can do compound angles, and bevels which the Preac can't do.   The Preac also uses an unusual size blade and has a depth of cut of only 1/4" versus 3/4" for Jarmac.   The Preac runs slower, and is therefore considerably less noisy than others.

Any of these saws should do a satisfactory job.

Tom Berkner

Small table saws: I have to add to this...We own 3 Dremel table saws, a Microlux and a   Jarmac. The Dremels have had a real problem with belts slipping and as they no longer make them...even finding a belt is tough.

For my use with the precision fence you can buy(about $45 for the fence providing you can keep hubby from stealing it and adapting it to one of HIS saws...grrrrrrrrrrr) the Microlux works quite well but for Larry it isn't   to his   standards. He really prefers the Jarmac though wants to add a Preac to the herd. You do need a new plate where the blade comes through. They are all too widely spaced...mainly to allow the blade to tilt but if you work in really tiny things you loose them through the slot otherwise. The plate we bought from MicroMark for the Dremel saw broke the first day so Larry had to make some himself. I am no judge but Larry who makes models professionally and uses saws for 6-10 hours a day...every day...(.he is a workaholic in his shop between 4 and 5 every AM til about 6 PM or later.)... says the Jarmac is the best for his $$. He has to do absolute precision for the things he is making and it is his favorite. The problem with the Microlux is that unless you have the precision fence you just can't get really accurate. The guides that slide in the metal tracks fit too loosely and can move 1/32 from side to side   which may not seem like much but depending on what you are doing it can make a LOT of difference.

The wooden tray thing they offer is worse and can be 1/16 off. These are gripes I have had about it. The key is the way you will be using it. If you are like me and don't use it but every so often I'd go for the Microlux with the precision fence. Spendy little devil but I like it.

Now I think before I commented that you should keep a watch in the local paper and call local pawn shops regularly if looking for these items. We have picked up the Jermac and several of our mini lathes and a mini milling machine 2nd hand through these sources. All were in excellent condition and my daughter got hers at a yard sale still in the original box with all accessories! Keep your eyes open and they are out there from time to time.   OK, I'm off my soapbox now!

Anita McNary-Haynes

Preac Table Saws: I cant resist adding my two shekels' worth to the mini table saw thread...

Before buying my Preac, I had spoken to several SSers about the table saws that they had, and most everyone agreed that the Jarmac and Preac were excellent.   It was a bit hard to make up my mind, but the praises sung for the Preac were just a bit louder.   The Jarmac has a tilting blade, while the Preac doesn't. Each is an advantage and disadvantage.   Because the Preac's blade doesn’t tilt, tiny pieces of wood don’t fall through the opening near the blade.   However, the Preac has jigs available that allow you to push the stock through the saw at various angles – therefore solving that "problem".

I took a workshop with Pete and Pam Boorum at Molly Cromwell's Sturbridge (MA) show this past June, and in the workshop, we used the Preac saw to make a cherry lingerie chest.   Pete and Pam taught us more than a few tricks of the trade.   I was hooked - I had to have one to take back to Israel!   Well, it certainly wasn't cheap, after buying a few accessories, but... you get what you pay for.   I am THRILLED with that saw.   It is quiet, accurate and does everything I need it to do.   I rarely have to sand a piece that I cut with the Preac - it's that precise.  

If anyone has ambitions of making his/her own miniature furniture, I cant recommend the Preac table saw highly enough.   It's difficult to get the desired results without the proper tools... Come to think of it, I would highly recommend one of Pete and Pam Boorum's workshops   - not just to see for yourself - but also to go home with a great piece of furniture you built completely yourself.

Jonathan in Israel

Preac saw:   We are a distributor of the Preac table saw and thickness sander.  Our students almost always are comfortable using this saw. We think that is because it's not at all scary like the 4" machines can be .   It is easy to set up and maintains tolerances well. It is not powerful enough to cause serious damage but cuts well enough to make any furniture. We have sold nearly one hundred machines over the last few years and everyone seems to be satisfied with the performance.   It is always a pleasure when we hear that our students have gone on to create other projects on their own.

Pete Boorum

Ungluing: I tried the tip that was posted on the SSD about ungluing furniture in the microwave. It works and it takes only 1 minute in the microwave to soften the glue. What I found out though, is that it melts the varnish also, so be prepare to sand. I didn't mind since I needed to sand   the piece anyway.

Gisele Nadeau

Eraser to clean sanding discs:   With the dry woods we use, power sanding belts and discs frequently "load up" long before the abrasive becomes significantly dull or lost. A product sold at woodworkers supplies looks like an old fashioned sandpaper pencil pointer but has a moderately dense, rubbery, white block on it.

Held against the belts, etc., while running at maximum speed, it very quickly cleans out most of that clogging "saw dust" leaving the abrasive almost as good as new. It is far quicker than changing the disc or belt and far - far - far more economical. Sorry but mine is years old and the name no longer readable (will check my next trip to the Wood Workers' Emporium). The rubber is a bit more dense and less crumbly than a standard white/yellow gum eraser. In the past, however, I have had reasonable success with an actual gum eraser when the real tool was temporarily lost under my usual workshop clutter. The soft eraser disappeared almost as fast as the problem but (in the pinch) it worked.

Mel K.

Cleaning sanding disks: If you don't want to or can't buy the product to unload the sanding disks or belts, you can use an old shoe with a rubber sole. That was a tip in a woodworkers magazine many years ago, I tried it and it works.

Linda Master

Unsticking ones self from Super Glue: Keep a bottle of acetone (nail varnish remover) around, plus some cotton swabs (q-tips or something equal). I believe there may be a desticker product out there now as well that crazy glue puts out. If you get your fingers stuck it is the first impulse to rip them apart -- resist this impulse, as you could literally rip skin off one of your digits. Dab the area with the acetone, and be patient while it works, you may have to dab it for awhile. It will eventually dissolve the bond, or at least soften it enough that you can extricate yourself from the sticky situation;). Your fingers may feel a bit dry and scaly for awhile, but it is better than a gaping wound.

Word of warning -- if you find yourself with a finger stuck on your eyelid, anywhere on your face, etc., GO TO THE DOCTOR. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO UNSTICK YOURSELF. You could do serious damage. Don't worry about embarrassment, it is fleeting and one day you will laugh instead of cringe, but a ripped surface that needs stitches or surgical intervention will have evidence for a very long time, and we don't want acetone getting anywhere near the eyes.

Kim (dire warnings a specialty) From Canada

Unsticking Fingers - Cyanoacrylate Glues: For removing the cynoacrylate glues I recommend Z-7 Debonder which you can get at most any place that sells the glue. It will remove it from skin, work surfaces etc. and is odorless...unlike the nail polish remover. It does contain acetone but they have managed to deodorize it.

Sally Hoffman