Gluing Trick: After you've spread the wood glue on the joint, put a drop of regular (not gel, not pen, not anything else but regular) Super Glue every 4 inches or so. The Super Glue will help hold things in place while the wood glue dries.

Trish in San Jose, CA

Clamping Corners: May I suggest that you try using a picture frame clamp? You can set up all four corners at once using one of those. I have been using Elmer's carpenter's glue for years with great success. Once that glue sets up (under clamping pressure) it is usually stronger than the wood itself! I also strongly recommend attaching the corner joints with small brads or screws, then use a carpenter's square to square everything up. You can countersink the brads or screws and back fill with light weight spackle. Cover with your final surface treatment and you'll never know that they are there.

Lloyd Cooper

Saws: Band saw: A table mounted or floor stand mounted power saw that has a circular "belt" type blade. Usually has a much larger throat depth for cutting thick stock than other saws. Mine cuts things up to 8" thick - great for cutting out full-sized duck decoy blanks. Smaller table top models are also available. The teeth always travel down towards the table. Blades vary in width from around 1/4" to maybe 3/8". The thinner ones are great for cutting curves, the thicker for cutting large stock. I use mine a lot. I have a full-sized model but for minis this would be over kill.

Jigsaw: A handheld power tool that has a reciprocating (up and down action) blade. Best for cutting curved lines in large sheets. Blades are made for many purposes such as metal, wood, plastic, etc. Some jigsaws have a scrolling feature that allows the blade to be turned separately from the saw itself. I use mine occasionally when cutting large pieces or weird things such as gourds.

Scroll Saw: A table or stand-mounted reciprocating saw. Unlike the jigsaw, your work moves on a table instead of moving the saw. Best saw for cutting curves - you can cut almost any intricate shape. Blades come in all gauges and with different teeth for different materials. Good saws come with variable speeds for different uses. Throat depth limits the size of the material you can cut. For very large sheets you'd have to use a jigsaw. However, this is one of the most versatile saws for miniaturists since we usually work with small things. It is safer to use than circular type saws, too. I use mine constantly. I have a Delta.

Circular Saw: A handheld power tool with a round blade, similar to a table saw blade. Best for cutting straight cuts when portability is needed. One of my least used tools.

Table Saw: A table mounted circular saw - the work moves over the surface of the table. Great for cutting straight cuts. You can also cut good angled cuts and even do some joinery type operations on it. It can do cross cuts and rips, but they can be awkward to use on real large material such as full sheets of plywood. I use mine for larger projects, not so much for minis.

Radial Arm Saw: You see these when you have stuff cut at a lumber yard. The work sits on a large frame and the circular saw is pulled over the work on guides. Best saw for cutting rips and long cuts. It's very accurate. Not really needed for minis. I don't have one because my other saws do the limited large work I need done.

There are lots of variations on these basic saw types. Anker saws that use a dremel tool are great for rips and crosscuts on very small pieces. Not practical for anything but minis but I love mine for mini furniture construction. MicroMark sells several brands of small saws that do the same basic jobs as the ones described above, but I have not personally used them. I had a dremel table saw once, but it was too big for some jobs and too small for others, so I got rid of it. I also had a dremel scroll saw but I wouldn't buy one unless it is the only kind you can afford. You get lots of vibration with it and not much power.

If I could only buy ONE power saw, I'd say go with the table scroll saw. You can cut almost any mini project on these. You may need a bit of practice and/or jigs to get straight lines, but you have more versatility with this one than any other saw.

SAW TIP for the day: When cutting out several of the same item (especially good for unusual shapes)rubber cement or spray adhesive several layers of wood together. When the items are cut, drop into rubber cement thinner (or pry apart carefully) to separate.

Bonnie Gibson in Tucson

My favorite tools and indispensable to me are my fine small tweezers, my 6" 1/2"scale cork back metal ruler and my Dean Jensen 1/4"scale cardboard ruler. Plus small sculpting tools I've made for sculpting my dolls.

I almost forgot another of my favorite tools - and since I haven't seen it mentioned yet I will add it to the list - sandbags. I keep a few cloth bags in various sizes filled with sand, just enough so they can be shaped around objects. I use them when gluing odd-shaped objects because they can be conformed to the shape, they don't leave marks, and they hold quite well. They are also great for gluing cup handles, etc. on ceramics. Plus, and best of all, they are free!

Jacqui in Hilo

I've been working with small scales for about fifteen years using a twelve inch metal cork-backed ruler. While browsing the counters at the Charlotte National I saw a six inch corked back ruler. What a blessing when it comes to doing straight cuts in these small sizes. Maybe this will help some new comer to this size and they won't wait so long to benefit from it.

Helen Borders

Saws: The big difference between a scroll saw and a band saw would be the fact that a band saw has a blade that is all one piece and makes a full circle like a rubber band. This doesn't allow for one to cut any inner spots with out cutting a path clear through to do so. With a scroll saw or jig saw one can drill a hole and then insert the blade and cut from the inside as well. My husband used his scroll saw extensively for fret work and miniatures. Band saw was for bird houses and bigger items. Circular saw or jig saw were for getting the wood small enough to get in the front door, table saw to cut into smaller pieces that could be stored in his work room. I am sure the table saw, jig saw and circular saw would be the ones to use for cutting out walls and large pieces to make the frame of a house.

Marlene H Smith

Glues

My 2 cents on glues ... I've narrowed down my collection to my favorite 5 (and the list DOESN'T include Quick Grab ... hate the stuff!) I've been a woodworker all my life, so here's my scoop:

1) Wood glue. Really more versatile than the name implies. I bought a huge bottle of Elmer's Pro Bond (more viscose than carpenter's wood glue) and has great "tack" power. I use it for exterior construction, interior moldings and even to attach roof shingles.

2) The ubiquitous Aleene's Tacky Glue. Works on everything from paper to light wood.

3) Epoxy. Right, that 2-part smelly stuff. Boy does it work wonders glueing light metal parts together. But remember the mantra, clamp, clamp, clamp!

4) Silicone. The best stuff for anything you might want to undo in the future. The owner of PJ's (our local minis store) uses it for setting in windows, stairs, exterior shutters and other components that might affect your ability to re-decorate in the future. But we don't ever do that, do we! LOL. Well, in my case, I just take a sledge hammer when I renovate! And last but not least,

5) Zap-A-Dap. It's like super glue, only better. I found some of the instructors at the roundtable workshops at National using it and it is fantastic.

Uh, oh ... forgot one more.

6) My newest toy ... Elmer's polyurethane glue. I've used it to secure pin hinges in doors, too.

Jan in Charlotte

Glue: My best glue is the Bond Instant Grrrip. I use this for everything and put my vast collection of glues in our groups "trash to treasures" box!!! BTW...this is Susan Sirkis's fabric glue! It doesn't leave a hard, stiff finish.

Jan Haring

Fabric Glue: All this talk of glues, and no one has mentioned Fabritac, I find it indispensable for gluing polyester fabric and trims as well as trims with metallic threads in them!

Alice Zinn

Wallpaper Glue: Yes paste (actually a bookbinders glue) is wonderful for wallpaper. Spread it on the back of you wallpaper, using an old credit card (do NOT thin it first, adding water defeats the NON-stretching qualities of the glue) just thick enough to make it look shiny. Then put the paper on the wall and smooth it out using another (or at least clean the same one first) card.

Instead of the credit card, we buy the auto body filler spreaders from the local auto parts store.

Tom Berkner

Yes Glue: Yes and "Grandma Stovers" are the same thing. It is what Brooke uses and I have had best luck with it by thinning it to the consistence of thick honey. Be sure when you brush it on your paper (I use one of those .68 throw away brushes about 1" wide but don't throw it away LOL) just brush up and down. The paper stretches when wet and if you go in all directions you will likely have ripples. This has been my experience and my good teacher teaches this. After paper is applied I use a brayer to smooth it down but also an old CC works.

I have even used Yes (Grandma Stovers) on places where my real wallpaper border stubbornly refused to stick..worked great! LOL When I use regular prepasted wallpaper I usually make a very thin mix of this and use it to wet the wallpaper then wait a couple minutes before putting it in. Has done a good job for me. I use more "real" wallpaper and parts thereof then "miniature" wallpaper.

Personal preference. If you look at the rooms I have done I think only 3 had miniature paper in them.

Ceilings I have found great textured paper at Home Depot...usually they will give you a large enough "sample" to do a ceiling...Have used textured art papers from art store and part of a roll of early 1900 paper we found in an old rental we bought. It is absolutely perfect! (Though have to handle with care until glue's in). Bet you all wanted to hear this.. LOL Anyhow this is my 2 cents worth!

Carpeting is from my "collection" of upholstery fabrics. Whenever I find a wonderful piece I buy a chunk and I think a textured or pattern carpet helps keep a room interesting. You can even combine them by cutting the center out of a square and inserting another piece in the "hole" trim in between with Bunka and around the outside with fringe or bunka and you have a wonderful "new" look

Anita McNary-Haynes

Dremel Tools: Dremel tools are alive and well and not hard to use. Dremel is the only rotary hand tool I will use, because they make a bunch of accessories for it that increase its usefulness quite a bit. None of the other ones will fit the accessories. Dremel is not hard to use, but you should practice on scrap wood a bit until you have a good idea what it will do under certain circumstances. For example, if you are using it freehand with a sanding drum, it can catch on the edge of the wood and throw your hand/tool off to the side. Not a big issue, you won't be hurt or anything, but it could grind a gouge in your work. So you need to know about these points.

Dremels are wonderful tools for miniaturists and for many other purposes as well. If you are going to get one, get one with the flex shaft attachment. You will like the flex attachment for fine work because it's the size of a fat pencil and much easier to control in REALLY tiny places. By itself, it costs about $25. It's a bargain(maybe $15 more) when purchased in the box because you get a lot more bits and pieces to play with. Go ahead and get one. You'll love it.

Jeanne, San Anselmo, CA

Dremel Tools: I have used several types of Dremel tools, including the flexible shaft models. I currently own 3 in different states of age, body style and condition. I have 2 old ones that fit my Anker cutoff and rip saws and I leave them in the saws most of the time. They are the old style with the straight cylindrical body. The new one I got from Sears (it is made by Dremel for them). The newest one has a chuck type adapter available that allows you to eliminate the use of collets and tightening wrenches.

I also have a Foredom tool. This is sort of like a flexible shaft on a Dremel tool but WAY better. The Foredom tool has much more power, speed, and versatility. You are able to select a hand piece that matches your needs, and it takes any Dremel accessory as well. I can work with one for hours on end without the fatigue and heat buildup I get with my Dremel. It is much more pricey, but definitely worth it if you spend a lot of time using one. I use mine for minis, carving wood, cutting stone, etc.

Bonnie Gibson in Tucson

Light Box: Use a Lite Bright box. I ripped the peg board off (actually it lifted out quite nicely, but is not as interesting as saying "ripped") and had hubby cut me a piece of Plexiglas the same size. It is proving to work extremely well and doesn't heat up and buckle out of shape.

Dahn

Super Glue: I just LOVE the brush on Super Glue, but if you use it, attach the base of the bottle to something, (I waxed in onto a square of cardboard) makes it much more stabile and keeps it from tipping over!

Alice Zinn

Liquid Nails: Liquid Nails is a great product. A lot of bird house builders use it to attach shingles. I find it messy to work with and too thick/stiff for assembling dollhouses. I like tighter joints.

Tom Berkner

Liquid Nails: I use a lot of 2" foam insulation board in my projects and Liquid Nails is what I use exclusively for gluing foam to foam and foam to wood. It's the best thing I've found to date for this kind of gluing, I don't use it for anything else since it's too messy.

Rik Pierce

Cutting Basswood: For a hand saw you should use one that's 54 teeth per inch, called a razor saw, makes a very smooth cut. I also suggest a wooden miter box. The metal ones will destroy the saw blade as you can't help raking the edges. I carry both. The miter box is maple with a replaceable strip in the bottom. The razor saw comes with a with handle, or just the blade is available, if you have the Xacto handle.

Ruth, Grass Valley, CA

Gluing to card stock: I worked in an advertising agency and we used to glue computer generated pieces to card stock. We used Spray Mount. It doesn't discolor the paper and a little goes a long way. One thing to consider though is that you need to do this spraying in a very well ventilated area or outside.

Kathy Dychton