Gluing light fixtures: Try using bath tub caulking - it will adhere to anything. Just a small wee drop is needed. Or go to an auto supply store and ask for the glue used to affix a rear view mirror to the windshield. That stuff sticks to glass also, like the caulking.

Bob in Hollywood, FL

Gluing light fixtures: Be careful about gluing in ceiling fixtures. Glue them only if they have replaceable bulbs. If the fixture will work we prefer to use Circuit's chandelier adapters and sconce adapters. One type, you glue a part of the adapter to the fixture and then it snaps into the adapter which pushes into the tape wire. Another type slides over grommets in the tape wire. Both are a lot easier to use than trying to glue a fixture to the ceiling and wall. Another plus is that it makes your fixtures removable, interchangeable and replaceable. I like "ables." You can get them at most miniature shops either in person or through the mail. They are about $5.00 each. Well worth it.

If your fixtures don't fit the adapters or you don't want to spend the money, try using poster tack. Get it in white at Wal-Mart. We cut packages into small squares and have them in our shop for our customers' convenience. It won't melt in the heat and works great on miniatures.

Sandra Olsen

Doll Hair Glue: I prefer Aileens Tacky, or Velverette.

Viola Williams

Doll Hair Glue: I do a lot of wigging and also teach it. I have found that Aleene"s Tacky thin bodied glue works the best for me. Because it is thin, a straight pin can put the tinniest bit down to hold a curl and not show. Because it is tacky, it holds that curl until dry. When totally dry, if you hate the look, or a child decided to play with the doll, the entire wig will peel off in one piece. It can also be soaked off in water. The glue comes in the gray bottle. Get the smallest bottle, a little goes a long way and it goes bad in heat after a while.

Doll Hair Glue: Use Velverette...it is formulated for use with fabrics. It can be described as a thick, white, tacky. The "for use with fabric" part makes it clear drying and flexible. While we are on the subject, use only a hatpin or pointed tool to push the hair firmly into the glue. If you use your finger you will leave large glueprints.

Laurie Sisson

Make a Bar Clamp

You will Need:

1 full-threaded bolt. Length of bolt is going to determine "span" of clamp. Diameter of bolt is not important
1 wing nut to thread onto bolt.
2 large flat washers to fit on bolt shaft.

What I do: Place one of the large washers on the bolt and slide it to the head end. Place second washer on bolt and then thread on the wing nut. The space between the 2 washers is the "span" throat) of the bar clamp. Place the items to be clamped between the 2 washers and tighten the wing nut.

Bob in Hollywood, FL.

Glass Cutter: Some thin glass can be cut with the usual cutter you find at the hardware store, but I got hold of some that needs a better cutter than that. When I tried to cut it with the usual cheap cutter, it broke everywhere but along the line. I ruined a lot of glass before I found a better cutter. The better cutter I found was from a stained glass store. It has a hollow handle that holds extra oil, and makes a cut that the glass breaks cleanly along. So if you don't have luck with the cheap cutter, try this one.

Jeanne in San Anselmo, CA

Doll Hair Glue: I use Tacky glue - the thicker, the better.

Michelle Geoffrion-Mahler

Gluing Glass: There is an automotive glue that is used to glue the inside rear view mirror to the windshield. Holds like steel. Very reasonable. I do not know the name but just tell the person at the counter that you want to glue your rear view mirror back onto the windshield.

Bob, Hollywood, FL

Storing Paints/Stains: To help paints, varnishes and things in a bottle or can from drying out - store them upside down. The liquid in the container acts as its own seal and stuff will stay like new.

Susan in St. Croix

Cutting circles: You can make an easy jig to cut circles. Assume you want a 2" circle. Clamp a board 1/4" thick or so to your saw table with a nail sticking out of it a short distance. The nail should be about 7/8" from one edge, that edge should be parallel to the saw blade. Take a piece of the wood you want to make into a circle and drill a small hole (or pound a nail or other sharp object into it) exactly 1" from one of the edges. Place that edge against the blade, the hole over the nail, and turn the wood around and around. Voila, you have a circle of wood.

Barb Jones

Miniature iron: In the last Keepsake Quilter newsletter/catalog I received there is a Mini Iron.  In the product description they refer to it as an itty-bitty iron.  The handle is 9" long and the ironing surface is 1 3/8" long.  The handle is similar to a curling iron handle and at the end is a mini iron.  I can send you the catalog if you like.

Melissa

Miniature iron: To find a smaller than usual iron, check out travel irons. When I was hanging out with quilters, they often used them in classes, they're smaller, cheaper, and some are quite good.  I bet a curling iron would work, too, and some nowadays have a steam option besides.

Bonni C Backe

Ironing the wee things:  When I was a child, I remember ironing my ribbons by sliding them over a hot light bulb. Do you think maybe this might work?

Marie Malone

The history of the Miniature Seamstress Pressing Aid® ©: .My grandmother, with her pedal sewing machine in tow, used to hitch rides in wagons around the country side every spring and fall, stopping at various homes for a week or so to make the family's new clothes for the season. She was a firm believer in pressing every seam as she sewed for the couturier look. When I tried to press miniature clothes with a regular iron I put in more creases than I took out. Travel irons didn't work because they don't generate enough steam for tailoring work. Tried a sleeve board but it wouldn't go inside little skirts. A dowel did work for sleeves but I was always losing it and having to make a new one, then finding a whole pile of them when I was looking for something else.  Plus I have always used a "ham" when sewing big people stuff. Figured if I could get  a small board for skirts and flat stuff attached to a dowel and a tiny ham it would be big enough that I wouldn't lose it and I could use a regular iron. Jerry came to my rescue with his big saw, drill press etc. and the prototype was made. I am still using it almost 10 years later even though it does look a little battered. Other doll makers saw it and wanted one.... thus began our Miniature Seamstress Pressing Aid ® © production. We still make each one individually by hand.

Sammy (I'm a girl) Smith

Gluing Kitchen Cabinets: I used Quick Grab glue to put my kitchen cabinets up and they have stayed up for over three years, now.

Carole Pierce

Fixative Spray: I use a brand of fixative called Blair Matte Fixative, which I buy at a shop that sells artist's supplies.

Janet

Gluing joints: In the past when I had to glue a butt joint, I would place the two pieces on wax paper. After a number of uses, the wax paper did not serve its intended purpose and stuck to the glued joint. Sometimes the wax paper would get in the way of my working. Now I shake some talc powder, cornstarch or any handy fine powder on a flat surface and glue my joints on top of the powder. Any powder that adheres to the glue or pieces being glued can be brushed or lightly sanded off. If it sticks to the glue, I know I used too much glue.

Bob

Paint trays: I sometimes use the blister pack from products for disposable paint trays.

Joan

Glue: I use a drop of household cement on each corner for everything I want to glue permanently. So far it has held over the years with no problems!

Jo