Lead: I have been reading through all of these posts about using lead for the stained glass windows and I am somewhat concerned if this is real lead you are using. I hope you ladies are using gloves to handle the lead and are keeping it where children can't get hold of it. I was really concerned when someone mentioned some sort of lead in a wine bottle cap. Lead can be very toxic, especially to little ones. There have even been articles in some of the medical journals about using leaded crystal over a period of years. Wine is said to leach the lead out of the crystal. I don't want to sound like an alarmist or spoilsport, and I know you are using minimal amounts, but if you work with it frequently, wearing gloves is a wise precaution. Also, make sure that no scraps or bits and pieces are where children or animals can get to them. It takes much less exposure for a small child or small animal to develop problems.

Dolly

Golf Tape: I just couldn't deal with this stuff! Had trouble cutting it, forming it, so I gave up. I got some very thin silver solder at Radio Shack and used that for my stained glass windows. I just cut it, bent in into the shapes I wanted and glued it on the doors and windows. After more than a year, it's still there and I am very happy with it.

Carole Pierce

Imitation Leading: I was thinking that for smaller scale windows, you could probably use gray coat button thread and do the same thing. Just glue it on the windows and fill in with Gallery Glass paint.

Anita Myers

Lead thread: It comes on a spool like regular thread and comes in different weights, it is used for tying flies that are supposed to sink. The spool he showed me just looked like heavy grey thread but without the twist. Available at fly tying supply stores. For that matter I just had this wildly improbable thought that it might be useful for faux chain mail. I have medieval stuff on the brain it seems. I hope this helps someone get the perfect window.

Esther

Stained Glass: A few years ago my mini club did a class in stained glass windows. We used acrylic panes cut to the right size. Drew the design on paper and taped the pane over it. Cut lead tape (you can purchase this at sporting good or pro shops) in 1/32 inch strips and outline the design on the pane with it. Then take a dowel rod and roll over the tape firmly so that the color doesn't seep under the tape. Then using a toothpick, put drops of stained glass color inside the design and "paint." For more realism, after the color is dry, you can turn it over and tape the design lines on the other side.

Rusty

Stained Glass Windows: On a piece of paper draw the image you want to place on glass. Place the piece of glass over the drawing. Using a silver or pewter color glass paint, follow the outlines of the glass sections on the paper. After the pewter paint dries, color in with glass paint the colors to the various enclosed areas you created. When all is dry there should be a semblance of a stained glass window.

Dr. Bob...Delray Beach, FL.

Stained Glass Leading: Those of you using liquid leading for the minis may want to check out the "Plaid" (Brand) "Tip-Pen" Craft tip sets. One set contains 3 very tiny Metal tips that will fit the plastic bottles; the other set contains four tiny caps, 3 tiny bottles and one "bottle" that is actually a mini syringe. Either of these sets really makes it much easier to get the mini leading lines better than the original "liquid leading" bottle. It's so much easier to squeeze steady and drag with the smaller kit bottles (especially the syringe bottle), and the micro fine metal tips make the leading very tiny for mini scale. The tiny tips also work great with liquid glue for those of you who like to glue fabric. Here where I live, in SW Missouri, the little "Plaid" brand, metal tip sets are sold at all the craft stores and at Wal-Mart.

Wilma Kinder, SW MO Ozarks region

Stained Glass Leading: Here is another method of getting the "leading" for mini stained glass windows. I have not done this in years but I remember it was quite effective and especially, very controllable. This is, in part, an excerpt from my NN. Nov. '88 article...the window is in a church:

- -The stained glass window used was cut from Dollhouse Stained Glass Windows a Dover publication. Windows in this book are printed in black on transparent paper but he same method would apply to most any picture being used, on paper, glass, or acrylic.....as long as it is outlined in black or dark gray. You will be using clear embossing powder (this is primarily a rubber stamp medium and will be found where those type of supplies are sold). Mix a bit of white glue into water for a thin mixture...this will slow down the drying time of the water (acrylic extenders, sold with craft paints, can also be used with the water...or there is special, slow drying ink that is sold in conjunction with embossing powder, to use in place of the water). Using the liquid and a fine paint brush, go over the black design lines of the window, small sections at a time. Sprinkle embossing powder over wet lines. Tap off excess. When all lines are covered with powder and all excess powder is removed, and all lines straightened, h old window over heat from an iron, or light bulb (check embossing powder instructions for various heat methods). Powder will melt leaving a shiny, textured surface, making the black lines look slightly raised. Embossing powder comes in a variety of colors and the color of leading can be matched if you would rather use a color....this would especially apply if you are tracing the pattern onto glass rather than using a design that is already printed on a transparent material. The advantage of the embossing powder is that lines can be cleaned up as needed before heating, insuring neatness and accuracy.

Joann Swanson

Glass Leading Tip: For those who have a small syringe that is used to deliver small amount of stuff. Fill the opening with liquid solder. After the solder has "set" use a pin or needle (size-diameter) is your option and poke a hole through the solder lump. This will be the diameter of the "leading" for your leaded glass windows. Now fill the device with more liquid solder and proceed to make your lead lines on the glass. When finished, empty all the liquid solder from the device and place a pin in the original opening you made so it does not fill and "set" with more solder.

Dr. Bob...Delray Beach, FL

Diamond Paned Windows: I do not dilute Weldbond to create the windows. A suggestion for diamond paned windows, is wire form for sculpting. I found it at Pearl art supply and it comes in several grids. Solid copper so it weathers beautifully.... I am using it in my 1/4 in Snow White cottage classes. Otherwise you will just have to score your own sheets with a rolling cutter.

LadyBug

Diamond Paned Windows: I have just made window panes for my Harrison - a large Tudor-styled dollhouse. I used the Ready-to-Use page from a fantastic book which I believe is still on the market. The completed windows look really elegant.

DOLLHOUSE STAINED GLASS WINDOWS By Ed Sibbett, Jr. There is a full-sized page of the diamond pattern. I copied it on my scanner, and then printed sheets on my printer using a special product paper called "Inkjet Overhead Transparency Film". It is like a clear plastic sheet, but one side has a sort of rough texture to which the printer ink adheres. Since the panes look like the black-leaded type windows, these look more authentic than the white-edged ones seen on dollhouse kits.

Dolores

Diamond Paned Windows: If you can't find diamond pane windows go buy yourself a packet of biscuits ( I think you'd call them cookies) or crackers. Over here some packets come in clear plastic trays embossed with little squares (diamonds if you turn them). These are purrfect for tiles or diamond pane windows. Just paint dark grey in the grooves for leading and you're set!

Elli

Sticky tape for leading: re: sticky tape for mini stained glass leading. Many office supply stores like Office depot and craft shops like Hobby Lobby sell the ultra thin "architect's drafting tape". It comes in black, white, silver and gold and makes good mini leading. Has a sticky back and very good straight thin narrow pieces. A big roll costs about $2.00. Comes in different widths, be sure to get the real thin strips for scale. This stuff was used a lot by draftspersons before switching to the auto CAD drafting programs, and it's still used a lot for presentations on presentation boards.

Wilma Kinder in the lovely SW Missouri Ozarks

Cutting Plexiglas: Using a sharp knife like a linoleum cutter you score the Plexiglas as deep as you can with an even pull (don't go over your lines). It should snap just like glass. You might want to practice on a couple of cuts first, and just like glass, if you put a dowel under the cut you can break over it. Good luck.

Jacqui in Hilo, HI

Cutting Plexiglas: To cut plexi, score along metal ruler several times, then place score side up on edge of sharp table or other object and then quickly snap down holding tightly to part on table. I've used this method many times and works every time. You will occasionally get a crack in wrong spot and this is a bummer as the stuff is quite expensive and you hate to waste it but doesn't happen often especially with the regular 8th in thick pieces. Worse if you use the thinner stuff.

Kathy in E TN

Cutting Plexiglas: I cut Plexiglas with a table saw. If you are only making windows out of it, you could do it on a jig saw, but that is slow. For larger pieces, such as for a protective box for a mini scene, a table saw is the only way to get smooth enough, straight edges.

However, upon reading your post again, I think you are cutting them for windows. Depending upon the thickness of the Plexiglas, I have scored it with a heavy duty utility knife (Xacto might be a little light), and then laid it along the edge of a sharp kitchen counter top right at the scored mark, and just snapped it.

**A tool tip: when cutting wood, metal, plexi or whatever with a saw blade, the thinner the stock you are cutting the more teeth per inch of blade you must have to achieve good results.

Barb Jones, Cupertino, CA

Thick Glass: For those who want glass or Plexiglas to look thinner, paint the edges black. This is an old trick that I believe originated with Noel Thomas many years ago. Even very thick glass appears appropriately very thin if the edges are coated with an opaque paint and then framed. YES! you can make miniature stained glass windows with full-thickness, real, stained glass pieces. The real trick is to frame and case the window so only the height/width dimensions are visible and the thickness concealed

Mel Koplin in Las Vegas

Thin Glass: For many years, I cut thin glass for dollhouses but unfortunately my health no longer allows me to work with miniatures. Fortunately I was able to find someone to take over the thin glass portion of my business. He does not have email, but address and phone number is:

THIN GLASS
George Wrisley 503/653-2591
17784 SE Paradise Dr
Milwaukie, OR 97267

I understand he also had thin mirror available.

Dean Jenson

Diamond Paned Windows: A great source for DIAMOND CUT WINDOWS comes from the clear plastic "domes" that come on many party trays (from the deli/caterer) - They are usually patterned, and make nice beveled windows - crystal clear; not too flimsy. I'm trying to make a clear storm door - the center often has a large circular pattern - good for a very large circular window (or deep sea aquarium setting maybe) ... Captain Picard's porthole on the Enterprise, perhaps???

Stacey T. (Indiana)

Cutting Plexiglas:  I got a Plexiglas cutter at Home Depot - about $5.00 - and it works great.  Makes a very smooth cut.   I am using Plexiglas on the house openings to keep the grandkids' little fingers away.  They have such a hard time not touching.  Hope this means that they will be miniaturists some day!

Carole Pierce