I use very small dowels for curtain rods. If you had really thick (comparatively speaking) wire perhaps you could use that, but without care, it still might bend if bumped, etc. Or a small brass rod (which I didn't have on hand). You could also use a 1/4 - 3/8" strip of wood to insert into a rod pocket of the curtain and have the wide (4" real) curtain rod. You would have to glue tiny pieces of wood as sides to go from the rod to the wall so reserve some of the gathered curtain to cover these pieces of wood. The top of the curtain (gathered on the rod) could be left exposed and simply pull the curtains back from the middle parting and use tiny tie backs. I made some like that in my workroom... no valance even.

Rita Pierce

Curtains / Drapes: They are so easy to make if you have a mini pleater... Just hem and pleat the fabric and you have wonderful pleated drapes. Curtain rods can be just about anything.. I've cut down wire coat hangers and glued beads at the ends for curtain rods... I'm sure you'll get lots of better ideas than that one.. but it does work. You can hang the rods on "hooks" that you've made from wires.

Viola Williams

I once saw an ad for Kirsch curtain rods that had a cluster of grapes and grape leaves on the ends of the rods for finials, this was in a bronze shade and was beautiful. I thought then, that the finials could be made out of fimo and using the fimo bronzing powder I bet they would look great.

Linda Reinhardt

Curtain Rods: Save the brass type pen refills that have the springs on them. They're usually found in those cheap "clicker" type pens. Make sure the ink is used up or you will get ink all over your curtains and walls. But you can then cut the pen refill the exact size to fit the interior of the window frame. The curtain rod is then "spring loaded" and you don't need any eyelets or hooks to hang it.

Paula Foerder

Curtain Rods: Might I suggest buying some brass rods and eye pins with an opening to accommodate the rod size. You might need a tube cutter to cut the tubing and not crimp it - not sure about that. The eye pins can be screwed into the wall and then place the rods in between the eye pins after putting the curtains or draperies on the rod. You would make the rod long enough to extend beyond the eye pin placement.. As for end finials, glue gold metal beads on each end. Place the holes onto the end opening so they do not show. If the window is at the back of the room - the bead openings won't show but if you place them on a side wall, you could glue the bead holes toward the wall or add something to the ends to cover the holes.

Paula Foerder

For finials on curtain rods why not try the Tiny Turnings? They come in sticks about 8" long and are different shapes. I know you can use them to make a set of tinker toys.

Carol (Jody)

Brass Curtain Rods: To cut brass or copper tubing without crimping, put a dowel in the rod, then cut. It will not crimp on the ends, then.

Peggye L. Mills

Curtain Rods: You can cut apart jewelry findings and epoxy or Super Glue them to brass rods to make finials. Check out the JAF catalog for a wide selection of findings that would be suitable--arrow heads, leaves, hearts, etc. JA Miniatures, RR 3, Osceola, MO 64776 417-646-8642Unfortunately, they are not on the Internet.

Rose Stout

If you get the right diameter brass tubing you can use brass door or drawer handles as finials. They just sit in the ends nicely though you can add a drop of glue if you want. I should think you could cover these with Fimo decorations as they'd go in the oven OK.

Chris

Leaded Windows: Oh my, there are a gazillion ways to do this. It just depends on the effect you are looking for and the materials you have available. Here are a couple of ways to get you started.

Diamond leaded glass windows: Go to your nearest Golfer's Store where they sell and repair golf clubs, and buy a roll of the peel and stick lead tape they use to weight clubs. Don't worry, they'll know what you are talking about. Use a cork-backed ruler and a sharp knife to cut strips of the lead the width you desire for your leading. Make 2-3 passes with the knife to cut each strip so that it does not curl up on you. Put a piece of clear acetate (from a bubble pack, a report cover, etc.) bigger than your proposed window, over a diamond grid and tape it down so it won't move. Peel the backing paper from the lead strips and apply to the acetate, following the grid lines. When grid is finished, cut out your window and set it in your door. You can fill the grid with transparent glass stains if you wish.

Using Glass Paint Leading available in craft departments and stores: This is better for free-form designs than the lead tape which hates to make tight curves. Gallery Glass seems to be the most common brand but there are several. If the brand you get has a tip that makes a thin line, you can use it "as is" to follow the grid or design for your window, then fill in the design after it dries with the transparent glass stains. Otherwise, make a new tip with Scotch tape (cellophane tape) as follows: (this works also for glue bottles and other dispensers with chunky "^" shaped tips. Don't get frustrated with this, give it a few tries and you'll get it. It really works but I can't use my hands to show you exactly!)

Place about a 3-4" piece of tape against the tip of the bottle at just a slight angle off from straight up and down. Smooth the tape to the tip where it sort of curves around the tip. Keeping your smoothing finger in place, turn the bottle so the tape continues to wrap around onto itself. It will form a skinny, pointed tip - keep going - it will eventually start to wrap back down toward the bottle, making a skinny, tiny new tip. If the opening is too small nip off the end with scissors or close it up by pinching it. This tip is very handy as a disposable glue or glitter tip.

Sammy Smith

In all the discussion about doing windows and how to do the rods, no one has mentioned the easiest method of all--using cornices to cover the top of your curtains/draperies and then just glue the cornice to the wall. I've even used them with kitchen curtains and other cottage sets and they always work very well. By making them fancy, you can really add class to the windows. I use the fancy one a lot with plain pleated draperies or with pullbacks.

Dottie in Tucson

Leaded Windows: I leaded a window at my home with some paints I got from Wal-mart called Gallery Glass. You paint straight lines on a piece of glass or wax paper, let them dry, and apply them to the window you want to lead. The hole in the tip looks big for a dollhouse window, but you could wrap a piece of clear tape around the tip to make the hole smaller.

Tracey Kellough

I'm such a purist that I actually bought curtain rods! They cost about $6 each from the big fat catalog. I figured out a way to put sheer curtains under the drapery rods. I'm using hatpin findings, they're about 5" long, with a bead on each end. I plan to mount them under the curtain rods using a hook from a hook & eye set. The purchased rods mount on eyehooks, and for the
swag I'm planning I'll use bigger eyehooks so the swag will hang in front of the drapes. This way I'll get 3 layers, if you get my meaning. Also, a hint on most fabrics if new, wash first to get the sizing out, and the fabric will lay much better.

Sharon Begley

I make all my curtain rods this way. I suggest that you DO purchase a mini tube cutter. I have wasted a lot of frustrating time trying to get a clean cut without mashing the ends! *grin*
You can find a small, adjustable one at a home store, like Home Depot, in the plumbing supply aisle. It will cut very narrow tubing with just a spin! It is inexpensive and will be worth it.

Leslie

Antiquing Window Glass: Another use for Weldbond glue is to make "leaded" windows look like old glass. After applying the lead tape, thin some Weldbond and paint it on the window, allow to dry and presto! old glass. I learned that from Gail Vaughn. She said it is the only white glue that dries absolutely clear.

June

Cornices: I have 2 cornices on windows in my First House...but in the master bedroom on the 2nd floor the drapes and cornice are in a wine velvet and the picture is so dark you can't see it. However, maybe you can see the one in my study on the first floor which is covered in matching wallpaper (may make it sort of blend in with the wall behind it!).

I'll try to explain. Picture a board (let's say 3/4" wide) as long as the width of your window. Now, on the bottom of the board you may choose to scallop it, or leave it straight and plain (my bedroom is scalloped; my study is straight). To each end of this board, you must glue a piece
of wood the width of the board (3/4") by say 3/8" (you now have a u shaped board with a long middle I_______I. Cover this board with a fabric of your choice or, like my study, matching wallpaper. Glue this board at the top of your window on the outside of the curtain/drape. You now have a nice finish on your window. Surely hope you can understand this.

Rita S Pierce

Enlarging Window Holes Without Splintering: Quite often it will help if you place masking tape over the area you want to cut, draw your lines on the tape and cut through the tape and wood at the same time.

Tom Berkner

Cornices are rigid -- usually made of wood and sometimes covered with fabric. They mount on the wall like an upside-down wooden flower box and your drapes go up underneath and inside them. Valances are drapery material on an exterior curtain rod which extend out over the drapes. A good picture of these can be found at http://www.loisinteriors.com/photo.html .

I have a book, which is an excellent source for window dressings, entitled: "The Encyclopedia of Window Fashions" by Charles T. Randall. Stores that specialize in upholstery design & window dressings usually carry it or books that are similar. It's a great tool for reference.

Anita Myers

Dollhouse Curtains: I make my curtains from various widths of lace. I use Beacon's Fabri-Tac (get it at JoAnn's or a craft store). I glue various types together to make them longer. Then, I attach them to the window sill at the top with a very narrow piece of velcro (self-sticking). I put the rough, sticky side on the sill, then, I put the softer side to the top of the lace and there it is! You can pull them off and change them anytime you want, no rods either!

Anita

Curtains: I've made beautiful curtains and drapes for both my dollhouses and have never sewn a stitch! Just use your hot glue gun. Works like a charm. Fast and easy. Just be careful not to burn yourself. Also great for making bed spreads and pillows. Good luck.

Tonya