Page: 2

Handkie Dressing: Greetings! And to the lady who wanted miniature doll patterns (using handkies) try our Miniature Doll web site (from the MSATMiniDoll list). There are over 40 how to projects, to view and learn. Here is the URL


Hanky Dressing: Dressing a doll with "hanky" --the article is in" Dolls in Miniature", Fall 1992, Vol II, Issue No. 3. Written by Loretta Kasza.


Glass-eyed Dolls: Joan wanted to know where she might get a boy doll kit to use for Harry Potter - I can't make enough porcelain myself to be able to sell kits, but this lady does wonderful work for super good prices (she even has glassed-eyed dolls ready to dress for $35.)
Teresa Brown
6755 E. Greensburg Rd.
Franklin, IN 46131 Email:

I'm going to feature Teresa's lovely glass-eyed dolls in the Jan / Feb 2002 issue of my newsletter.

Paulette in IN

McDonald Barbies: I collect those McDonald Barbies, they are a smaller scale, probably half scale. There are some that could be dressed. There is the birdwatcher with binoculars, the scatter, etc. The black Barbie has a cape that can be removed. I haven't done anything with them yet but was planning on using them for people in a half scale church that I never got finished. Ask your daughter about some without hoop skirts. The hair can be tamed some with conditioner or fabric softener.

Rhoda, Whidbey Island Washington USA

People Making - Bones: I found that most of my dissatisfaction from making 'people' was that the limbs didn't act right. So.....

When at the pipe cleaner stage, and just before wrapping and padding the body. Cut short lengths of plastic soda straw/aquarium tubing/brass rod etc and slip them onto the pipe cleaners in appropriate places. Leave 1/4 inch opening for elbows/knees etc to bend. Squirt some glue into the openings to hold in place. Then wrap them as usual. The 'joints' will bend properly, the long bones won't. Use a larger straw/tube for body and stiffen it further with fabric strips dampened with glue. . Leave hips to bend also. I also use the straws/tubing for neck and feet. . tiny pieces snipped and wrapped.

Give it try and see how much better your figure looks. I suppose this might be called an enhanced skeleton. . . sure gives the piece an overall better position. Bendable, but only in the proper places. Quick and easy.

Judie - Daytona Beach, FL

Child's Doll Suggestion: Anyone looking for good dolls for smaller children to use in a 1:12 house might consider the Fisher Price doll house dolls. I came across them on a visit to Canada last year and picked them up for my daughter to play with. She was 3 at the time and they are perfect for her. I haven't checked the scale, but it is very close to 1". The dolls are very durable, have articulated limbs and work very well for her. We have the parents, two children and two babies. Later on we can replace them with something different (and more expensive).

David Harron

Historical costumes: I love to make vintage & ethnic clothing. For your "longfellow" shirt, visit and scroll to the bottom of the links page to find links to clothing or pattern suppliers. You will find enough descriptions and / or drawings to figure out how the gathering is done. This is also a good place for those of you that make period clothing for your dolls.

Reva in beautiful Loveland, Ohio

Mini Tips: I've just added another album to my PictureTrail site, called "Mini Tips"  As I come up with ideas and techniques, I'll add pictures to that album. So far, there is a picture of the tiny "bottles" found in burned out Christmas lights.   Also (and I've been meaning to do this for a long time) there are "glass slippers" molded from hot glue onto the feet of a doll I'm making.

The trick in doing the slippers is to dip the doll's foot into a hot glue pot just enough to coat the bottom of the foot, making a sole.   After the sole had cooled, I added a high-heel by dipping a toothpick into the hot glue and attaching a tiny bit of glue to the doll's heel and pulling it down slightly.   After it cooled, I cut excess length off the high-heel with a scissor.   Then, with another strand of hot glue (while it was still warm), I made a strap to cross over her toes.   They look like glass slippers -- or could be "Jellies."

Anita Myers, Arnold, MD

Choosing Books: The best to learn Polymer clay. There are lots of little Hot Off the Press type books/booklets that are good for specialized things (Petite Eats and Mini Sweets by Syndie Wagner, Handmade Meals by Barbara Meyer, Fimo Sweets or Fimo Leather or anything by Esther Olson) Some of the info in these type of booklets is outdated, because the clay companies have changed formulations or whatever, but you can improvise and change the "recipes" with no trouble at all.  

And then there are large polymer clay books that address miniatures specifically, such as Sue Heaser's "Making Dollhouse Miniatures in Polymer Clay." Amazing number and quality of neat things you can make.

My favorite doll book is "Making 1/12 Scale Characters for the Dolls House" by Jamie Carrington (the book is just a delight to read, not to mention the wonderful things he teaches you, including how to make two-part molds!) Sue Heaser wrote a different one - "Making Miniature Dolls With Polymer Clay" which is a great book to start with... very detailed sculpting and assembly instructions. My second-favorite doll book. IMO, you can't go wrong with any of those three.

Then, too, there are quite a lot of excellent polymer books that aren't oriented toward making miniatures.... though the techniques can always be adapted for use in small scale.

Dotty McMillan's "Creative Ways With Polymer Clay" is absolutely the best book out there for a beginner - she starts with a bit of the very basics and builds on those to some pretty advanced projects.  

Another excellent project oriented book is Irene Dean's "Polymer Clay - The Weekend Crafter."

The most advanced polymer book available is by Jacqueline Gikow -"Functional and Decorative Objects from Polymer Clay" - it's fantastic!


Dollhouse Mouse: "where do I get or how do I make a mouse that stands on two legs and wears a Tutu?"

Since your daughter is 5, she probably wants the mouse from her book. How about a stuffed mouse?

Get a piece of tracing paper and use a pencil from a sewing shop that will transfer using an iron. (If you can't find this use a sharpened crayon.) Trace the mouse face she knows from the book and use this as an iron-on to a piece of pale, Angelina colored fabric. (Allow for seams.)

You should use the side of the face and do this for each side. Trace the body, straight on, like a gingerbread man, stitch and stuff. When you do the head, you can embroider the features with colored thread, and add bead eyes. Add the ears, tail and tutu and you will have a doll your daughter will cherish, mostly because you made it for her.

Laurie Sisson

Costumes: This site has lots and lots of links to patterns and costumes of different periods, holidays and whatever. Very nice.

Costumes: This site has lots and lots of links to patterns and costumes of different periods, holidays and whatever. Very nice.

Leslie in WA

Men's long handles & other 1:12th scale clothing: Dolls' House Needlecrafts by Venus A. Dodge see P. 32, Gentlemen's Combinations (long johns). Making & Dressing Dolls' House Dolls In 1/12 Scale by Sue Atkinson Has all sorts of clothing patterns, I used this book to dress a cook and a butler and to wig the cook, and was quite pleased with my first effort (I'm NOT a perfectionist!).

Havana (FL) Holly

Painting Clay: I never really heard of the idea of painting Sculpey before baking. It seems like it would be a monumental mess to do, and not very safe to breathe (depending on your paint.) I can only imagine that some paints might even blister on the surface of your piece, and then you'd really have some troubles on your hands. Are you having difficulty getting your paint to adhere after you bake it? I've used a lot of Sculpey (the colored stuff for food) and Super Sculpey for dolls.

For the dolls, outside of an acrylic "wash" to blush up their skin tones, and lightly detail their faces, I've never seen a need for extensive paint work on dolls, or finishing sprays or varnishes. Less done the me. The baked patina of Super Sculpey is perfect for that application (skin). With the colored stuff, or Regular white Sculpey - acrylics are a great choice for painting your baked pieces. (Acrylic is perfectly versatile as a wash and dry brush application as well.) Use a small fan brush to eliminate your brushstrokes, and give your pieces at least two light coats (after baking). You shouldn't have a problem after that.

These days I use Super Sculpey almost exclusively. (I recall the regular Sculpey being white, Super Sculpey is a flesh tone.) I'm still working on that room box, the Egyptian one...redoing the bed itself...but that room so far outside of the wood bed frame, and the tiny glass "seeds" in the's ALL Super Sculpey...the dolls, the dishes, the headboard, foot board, the table, the food. The Super Sculpey dolls were "washed" and detailed, and the other pieces simply painted outright. (All with acrylic paint...after baking) If you want to see, they're in the Egyptian room box album.) The product is really easy to "finish." I've never needed to prep it. And despite a lot of complaints I've heard about it, it has never surface cracked on me, or begun to shatter...ever. Never happened. AndI have dolls I've made that are at LEAST 10 years old. It's a great product.


viscose: I've been selling viscose for wigging miniature dolls for the past 16 years. Anyone who'd like a color-price sheet can email me their regular mail address, and I'll send it to them. The sheet is on my web site - the colors don't come out very well.

Paulette Stinson

Mohair Viscose source: Here is a site for mohair

Also note the crochet site at is a good resource for finding different items.

Other sites you might try for viscose:


dressing miniature dolls: it's easy and fun to learn to dress dolls, and you can learn a lot by subscribing to the Dainty Doll Newsletter. Each issue has 6-7 costume projects of all kinds, complete with patterns and detailed instructions. Anyone can email me for more information, or check out my web site.

Paulette Stinson

mini action figures: Action figures. Here is what I did for action figures. I found a plastic pack of 50 soldiers in action poses in a Dollar Store. Right size etc. I took them home and removed all the military stuff from one of the figures. I figured since they are plastic I can put them in boiling water and reposition any parts I want. Can also heat the joints and move the extremities to the desired position. Less destructive with boiling. I moved them( the extremities) a little bit at a time until I got the desired position. The painted with acrylic to get rid of the gray color of the figure.


Casting For Purls - A new Section: website.

The new section deals with miniature blankets, coverlets and afghans. How to calculate the size, which yarns/threads to use and a lot of other little things you need to consider. Also there are a couple of patterned stitches included to start you off, and I plan on adding more as time permits. So to see this new section, select the Patterns link, then select Blankets, Coverlets and Afghans.

Joy in Pointe Claire

Tiny Doll clothing Patterns: Look at a real pattern - the instructions. First page. LAYOUT...... The pattern pieces are represented faithfully for the layout... take this to a copier, and enlarge or reduce to fit your doll..... cut them out and use as patterns. Keep track of the percentage it took and use it on other patterns....... (thrift store patterns are about $.10) Mix and match sleeves, legs, arms, skirts, etc. Use glue instead of thread.

I've done this for years for all sizes of dolls. Works fine. For the very very small dolls, you might want to eliminate some of the fine detail on such as Vogue or Pristine but good ole Butterick or McCalls are good. Costume patterns will give you some exotic pattern pieces.

Judie - Daytona Beach. FL

This category has 487 tips of 10312 tips in the archives.

Previous 20 | Next 20

Page 2 of 25.

Search for:

Browse the database (all entries)