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Material to use with Backlighting: re: "What could one use for computer paper to print enlarged photos out on transparent or translucent material?  The purpose is to back up a room box scene of an outdoor view seen through large windows, lit from behind the photos (primitive homage to Thorne Rooms)."

Suggestion: use overhead transparencies made of thin plastic (sold for both ink jet and laser printers, I believe). I am a retired teacher, and would often scan, enlarge, then print B&W or color pictures onto the transparency "paper", to show on an overhead projector onto a screen or wall. Depending on how big you make the picture, the colors will fade out as the size increases. The paper is rather thin, so would have to be firmly anchored/glued onto the windows.

Bonnie in Sarasota

Wallpaper:  here is a site with lots of printable wallpaper.


Printing wallpaper: Firstly, to get wallpaper, or any full-size printie into the right scale, you would first download the picture and save it. Then insert the picture into a Microsoft Publisher document. Publisher enables you to decrease the size of the object/picture (or expand it if need be) to whatever size you want, and the rulers on the left and top of the page are a great help. Once you have the object the right size, you just have to print it.This leads to your next question re printing 11" wallpaper. Here I would make a copy of the picture in the file you have saved it in so that you have two. Using suitable software (I use ArcSoft Photo Studio 2000) you can then open the copy picture and crop it so that the piece you are left with can be added to the bottom of the original wallpaper (here you have to take care to ensure you don't crop off too much and that the pattern matches).

You would then go into Publisher, insert your original wallpaper and then insert the second cropped section of wallpaper below it, print and TA DA!

Another alternative is to print your own from scratch, either by scanning real wallpaper/wrapping paper or whatever and downsizing it, or you might find something on the Net. I'm a William Morris devotee and the dolls house I'm currently decorating is a Late Victorian one. I papered a couple of rooms with shop-bought wallpaper but wasn't entirely happy because I wanted something really special. Then, in my quest for the ultimate wallpaper, I discovered that quite a few William Morris sites have samples of his wallpaper, even giving the pattern repeat which means you can downsize the sample to a perfect 1/12 (in my case) scale. Before inserting the samples into a Publisher document, downsizing, and then copying and pasting to fill a page, some of the samples had to be cropped so that the pattern could be properly repeated. The result is that I now have done three rooms in William Morris wallpaper, and am working on the fourth, and now that I have fuzzy paper, I can complete the look with carpets. I'm in heaven!

Heather Heatherbee Miniatures, Perth, Western Aust


Judie - Daytona Beach, FL

Unusual printies site has "How To's":  a nice woman named Barbara Del Duco sent me her site. It's different than some I've seen, because it has a lot of "How To's" for assembling the printies into different things (dresses, top hats, curtains, box kites)  They have a really neat looking 1940's kitchen set. I imagined printing it out to fabric, and giving it a coat of mod podge, duplicating it to look like an old fashioned oilcloth! She's got mini directions, printies for a picnic hamper, too, but my favorite   was her printie diner menus. I've never seen them before. Check it out


Easter Printies at: to go direct to the Easter things, and scroll to the bottom of the page. There are lots of other Printies and I am going to start working on some new ones soon.


Scanners: It may well be that you get what you pay for, but I suspect it is not in proportion. By that I mean that the very expensive ones possibly don't give that much better performance than the cheaper ones. The main things to look for are:

  1. The resolution, 1200 dpi (dots per inch) seems about normal now but it may be that you can still find some "end of range" types with lower resolution very cheap.
  2. What is the resolution of your printer? If it isn't as good as the scanner, you won't get much more from it unless you upgrade the printer at some future date.
  3. What do you want it for? If it is only for putting pictures on the web, then 75 dpi is good enough! Don't attempt anything better because a) it will take up a lot of memory, b) it will take a long time to down load, c) computer screens only have that resolution.
  4. For making miniatures, then look at the 1200 dpi, but where are you getting your originals? If it is from your photographs, the results will be fine and scaling can be applied to get the printout just what you want. If your source is magazine pictures, picture post cards, prints, etc. then you may be disappointed. These sources use a dot printing method although the dots are too small to be seen by the eye. However, when scanning, which is also a dot process, the two sets of dots don't match up and you get what is call aliasing. You will find the picture looks streaky on the computer screen. Some photo software has various dither techniques that are supposed to overcome this effect, but I haven't found them to work very satisfactorily.


PaperClay: I'm sure Rik will jump in here - but let me clarify my own earlier comments about re-wetting the PaperClay. It doesn't really work to "re-wet" the PaperClay if it is stone dry. But while you are working with the medium and it starts to dry it can be re-wetted. A damp cloth can be placed over a work-in-progress to slow drying while taking a short break for lunch, etc. If something has gone completely dry and you don't like it - either cut it out with a knife (it slices right up!) or sand it off (kinda fun!) or apply a thin layer of glue and put a new layer of rolled out PaperClay on top and go to work!

No, you can't bake it to set it like clay. But once it is dry it will maintain its shape unless put to great stress (like soaking it in your bathtub). You *can* however, use an oven to speed drying - there are directions on the web site about that You can also spray a light coat of sealer if you think there are any issues. I have not sealed my cottage PaperClay, and I'm fairly positive I could "splash" water on my current cottage and have minimal damage i anything. I'd just blot it dry and I doubt I'd see anything once it dried. I wouldn't however, advise submerging it in a tub of water, though!

The PaperClay is basically (for a lack of a better description) "shredded paper" that is extremely fine. It's wetpacked so it can be molded into many shapes. It can take a lot of textures and surfaces. For the "melting" issues, if you think about how a fully dry brown paper bag reacts to water being sprinkled, poured, or soaked (holds shape when slightly damp, but starts to pull apart if soaked for a long time) you get more in the ballpark.

Best thing to do it buy a small package of PaperClay, construct a little sidewalk of stones or a partial chimney over a piece of foam core. Let it dry. Play with it. See how it holds up to abuse.

Laura Isabella

printables site in French: here is a beautiful site for printables don't worry you don't need to speak French just click away. It does have printable windows and doors food stickers etc. etc... check it out it is fantastic

Gisèle Nadeau

Converting a Dremel to a router: This is a really easy task. All you need is the # 330 router attachment from Dremel and a set of the router bits. If you want to make moldings, etc., you might also look at the Dremel 231 shaper/router table. The difference is you move the router over the work and you move the work over the shaper table. Both can be found in the Dremel display of any good tool department (Home Depot, Lowes, Wal-Mart, etc.)


New Garden Shed Printie: Well, it is almost done. I just have to finish the instructions. I have put a picture of the Garden Shed Printie Project on my site. I also put a message to all of you and I need your help. If you could take a look and read my message and let me know. Just click on the url below.


Printable site: I was browsing through the net and came across this French site that has some nice printable items. In case the URL doesn't work...I will also say, I went to Altavista, scrolled to the bottom where they list countries and clicked on France...which brings up a French search site..then I typed in "Dollhouses" and up came [I think??] about 12 sites and one mentioned something that resembled 'printables' so I went there and this was the result...hope you can find it...

and a later page for the same site;

I find if I go to different country sites and type in either doll houses or miniatures/dollhouses, etc...if they have anything they will tell you...There are some nice Dutch sites, one has a lot of good printables...If you are interested I will locate and post that one too... You may not be able to read the instructions etc. so you may have to just click onto everything they list...but if there is anything there , like printable will find it...and in the meantime, you get to look through some nice miniature displays... The Dutch site has both English and Dutch so it is easy for us who read no Dutch...

Pat Jones in Nova Scotia

more sites to investigate...I am glad that some of you went and looked at the site I posted French printables...and found them as good as I for the Dutch site...I will give two URLS, one is a list of many Dutch sites on miniatures, [and some from all over the world too]...on the right hand side of the list if you scroll down, and will find "printable minis" listed..or a similar phrase, in English so you can find some good sites on there...but I could never find Petra's through that site and she has a great site so I will give her Url second also...

That is for the list...this is for Petra"s

You will find on Petra's site at the top right hand corner a British there for the English version of the site....

Pat Jones in Nova Scotia

Skeletons: Jim's printables has wonderful printable skeletons in three sizes. They're a bit slow to cut out, but look great when done.

Lee Menconi-Steiger

Ballet printies: Thanks to hints from this incredible group AND the special service of Sheila from Boopmini we have found the Ballet printies !!!Hurray!!! Enjoy them too

Atie from Holland!

my new site: I have just got my new site up.. the address is

It's printables.. there isn't a huge number as yet but there are more on the way!


Using Printed Brick: I covered a seamstress shop with printed brick from my inkjet printer. I sprayed the printed side with an acrylic matte sealer (lightly) then I sprayed the back side also. I put a couple of coats on each side, then I sprayed the back side with an adhesive spray and use that to adhere it to the outside walls. Worked wonderfully.


Printable projects: I need to thank all you guys for all the help with my problems with running ink on my printable brick wall paper.

I think I've found the solution. I didn't want to use card stock due to the thickness, and I really wanted to be able to 'slide' the paper into place so the bricks would line up properly, so wall paper paste was the best way to go. So, I "moisture-proofed" the printed brick sheets. First, I tacked the printed sheets to an old sheet of plywood, to keep them all flat. I laid the plywood flat on the ground to avoid drips. Then, I applied a 'healthy' coat of spray fixative. When that dried, I applied 2 coats (drying in between coats) of clear spray enamel. When that all dried, I flipped all the sheets, and did the same process to the back of the paper. (A total of 6 coatings: 3 coating to EACH side. Very important to seal the back of the paper!)

After everything had dried well, I applied the paper to the building with regular wall paper paste. Worked like a charm. Like Johnny Bench used to say........."No Runs. No Drips. No Errors."

Once I got the paper up, I did a final coat of oil based polyurethane to seal it all.


Sealing papers: I have been reading all the posts regarding sealing inkjet printed papers so the colors don't run/fade. Has anyone tried making a COLOR LASER copy of the printed item and then using that as the wallpaper, etc? The color toner is heat set and water proof. Color copies cost in the 75 cent range at Kinko's (Anne, shall I say 3/4 of a finger - <g>) Seems like that would work. You would get a bit of color variation from the original, but just a bit.

Whui Chang

Transferring Prints:
You need:
- -thinner
- -cotton balls
- -a nice print in a magazine
- -a piece of cotton or paper where you want the print to be on.

- -The print will be a mirror-image!
- -The thinner is a very bad stinking stuff, so work in a well-ventilated area!
- -Very well printed, glossy magazines will not give a good print.

How to do it:
1. Lay your cotton or paper on a flat surface.
2. Cover it with the original print, faced down.
3. Wet the cotton ball with the thinner.
4. Then put this ball onto the back of the paper and make it all wet.
5. Then add some power to it by 'pushing' the ball onto the paper and move it over the whole back of the original print.
6. You can peep under it, but don't take it away, for it will never fit.
7. When you think the print is OK, you can lift the original off. It has lost a lot of ink and this ink is all on your cotton or paper. (So, the original print will be in a bad condition.)
8. Let dry.

I really don't know the English equivalent for 'thinner'. It is this bad smelling stuff which is also used in the printing business. We worked with it at artschool when we made screenprints. We cleaned our screens and hands with it.

Marjon de Haas

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