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Shop Recommendation: I thought I would lead you all here: She has an AMAZING selection of stuff, great pricing, fast delivery, and she is so nice it's ridiculous. I'm not affiliated with them, and only just met her through a sale on eBay, but I am hooked.

Sarah in Iowa

Cutting out Sculpey with Kemper: I always make sure my cookie dough is really stuck to the surface. That way when you press the cutter (not the plunger) the cookies stay where they belong - on your tile. The plunger is good for getting the clay out if it gets stuck but as a cookie cutter I like to use the metal part (like making real cookies)and make it do the work. Then lift the scraps with a razor blade and you are left with perfect cookies. problem 2 of canes becoming oval when you cut it. Bake them first for a few minutes. If they don't cut evenly pop them back in the oven to warm up and continue cutting.


Cutting out Sculpey with Kemper: If you dip the cutter in a little talcum powder before a cut, it should allow the shape to pop out with a shake. Another way to do it is to just cut out the shapes without hitting the plunger, and pull up the excess clay around them (a little trickier).

Kim from Canada

Milliput link: I've found a link you might be interested in regarding Milliput.


Milliput: the Micromark catalog has Milliput, but if you don't need the finest grade you can probably find a suitable substitute at any hardware -- it's epoxy putty, usually found in the plumbing section. Comes in a plastic tube, in the form of a cylinder of putty with a white center and green "rind." You mix the two together until it's white again and then sculpt away. A very small slice will make a surprising amount in miniature scale. I ordered some Micromark Milliput because I'm a big Andrea Barham fan and many of her projects call for this ingredient, but have found that the hardware epoxy putty works just as well, without the shipping charges.

Loretta Sniarowski

Milliput: I'm glad you're talking about Milliput. I've been trying to encourage customers to use it not only for the shop's sake but because it is fun. I have used it in a class I developed. I made some free-form furniture and a Spanish style fireplace with it in half-scale. It's really great for the small scales because of the ease of formation and detail you can achieve and no bake qualities.

I've also painted it and flocked it. I've created ponds and it makes very realistic smooth rocks. Try to find the right one outside when you need it.


Unhappy Shoppers: For those who have a comment about the service of *any* online business, look for a link to on that business' site. For example, some of the businesses we have been recently discussing on SS *are* registered with this resource. You can click on their link from that mini business site and file a report. These will be viewable by future prospective customers, and help keep businesses accountable or reward them for excellent service!

Anne Gerdes

Dulling Aluminum: I just finished a pierced tin cabinet for my log cabin. I went to the Archives and got five suggestions on how to turn aluminum (shiny) into tin (dull). For future reference, if you use disposable aluminum cookie sheets as your base, as I did, none of the suggestions worked except the product called Dullcoat. It comes in spray form, or paint on in either oil or water based. Cost under five fingers at my local train/hobby shop.

Sharon in Watsonville

New Products: I just saw a trade magazine that had two new products that would be of interest to miniaturists. The first is by Krylon and it is called LOOKING GLASS. It is supposed to turn clear glass into mirror glass. It looks as if it is a two step process. The other product is called LIQUID SCULPEY. Ad states that it makes color transfers, custom glazes. add color washes with this new bakeable liquid polymer medium. Uses: make transfers from offset printed images; add oil paints to make a bakeable painting and surface medium; add dry pigments to create glazes and color washes; create stained glass effect sun catchers and window clings. Used with polymer clays for a bakeable adhesive; grout for mosaics,; creating faux enameling; & a translucent glazing and polishing medium. Never having touched any polymer medium, even I can see some possibilities with this. The mfg. is Polyform, Elk Grove Village, Il 60007 (847-427-0426) They also have a web site at

Susan in Mid Tenn

excess as it dries (as in before it dries - harder if you let it dry completely) with a damp cloth. You can add acrylic (or other) paint (or dye) to the compound before you use it to color the 'grout'. You can paint over it (unlike some kinds of real grout or sealers) - you could also try the caulking (be sure it is the paintable kind - the other kind is somewhat shiny and paint beads on it) that is used around window frames, between ceiling molding and the ceiling. Plaster (or the fake plaster wall patching stuff) might work too. These all don't scratch the way real grout can. The other thing you need to remember about Formica is that if you cut it the edges you cut may not be the same color as the surface (often it is black or white). One way to hide that is make the 'grout' deep enough and have enough non-translucent (can't seem to spell opaque) color in it that it hides the edges.

By the way - Having done this in real life with both the tiles that come on the grid and loose ones I've learned a few things about making it straight (as in learned the hard way). I would suggest that you draw the lines for your tiles and glue them down first so that you can see your lines. If you have a very narrow ruler (or strip wood, styrene, thin metal, etc. - although these can bend) slide that between each row first one direction and then the other to straighten the tiles before the glue dries. You can also set the ruler (or whatever) down, push the tiles against the ruler as you set them, then move them to the next row and so the same. When done (presuming the glue isn't dry) then Formica Sample Tile Grout: Try wall joint compound. You can wash off the excess - just put it between the rows going the other direction to straighten. I saw in real life a tool that looked like:


Sink: the classic 'metal' sink component is a couple of restaurant individual jelly tubs sprayed silver. Faucets are available from Houseworks through your mini store, from the pewter mini vendors like Martha's Metal Miniatures and Parkers' Miniatures, or you can make your own out of found objects. Use pliers to wiggle the fold-down type spout out of a bottle cap for the faucet, with two small ball thumbtacks or beads for hot and cold; glue all three to a piece of flat wood coffee stirrer, spray silver.

Loretta Sniarowski

Sink: Mary Carson of Hammer 'n Smith in California makes the loveliest metal miniatures including sinks of all kinds to fit in cabinetry and counters. I could not find a web site for her, but I think Carol of SP Minis carries some of her items and could help put you in touch with her. I had the table across from her at the Andover in April and spent most of my time drooling over her pieces. They are also very reasonably priced-- especially considering the quality of her work.

Michelle Fox

Sink: My first dollhouse I made all the kitchen appliances and for the sink I used a stainless steel salt shaker top. It was just the perfect size and the hole looked like a real drain. I had picked it up at a yard sale.


Sink: one thing you may want to try are those tiny mint tins. For example, I'm always fascinated by the Altoids tins after reading about making refrigerators out of. While standing in line at CVS the other day, I spotted a much smaller tin of mints right next to the Altoids - can't remember the names. But two of them together might make a cute sink; or one of the larger tins w/a divider. Or, take one of the plastic jelly tubs from the restaurants and give them some treatments to look like chrome, etc. They pop into cabinet holes pretty easy.


Quilt frame: I looked in my Aztec book and you are absolutely right they no longer do a quilt frame, but has them.


30s and 40s History: Came across an interesting site which may be helpful to some: During the 30s and 40s the USDA had pictures taken portraying the everyday lives of war-era workers and their families. There are (I think) about 300,000 pics available depicting every aspect of life in the U.S. at that time. Only spent a few minutes there but could possibly be invaluable as a research tool.

Maureen in St. Albert

3/8 " Plywood: You might try Lone Star Models in Lancaster, Tx. Their web site is: I have ordered wood from them and I was very satisfied with both the wood and the service.

Joyce in Houston

Scenic Water: I just wanted to let everyone know that the Scenic Water that was featured on page 34 of Dollhouse Miniatures will be coming to America soon. I have been chosen as a distributor and will be covering the Northeast US for stores and anywhere in the US or Canada for Internet or personal sales. If anyone is interested, please send an e-mail to this address: I will mail out information and an order form for you. If you belong to a club or know of others who would be interested, let me know and I can either mail extras to you or if I get the addresses, I will mail information to them. I am really excited about this product and I would love to send you information.

Dolly Osman

Flower Gel: I use the flower gel, too. The brand I buy is called Everlasting Elegance and is sold at most of the usual chain hobby stores......Hobby Lobby, Michael's, etc. You could probably find it anywhere they sell dried or fabric flowers. I like it better than other resins because the smell is not as strong. It still smells, and you need ventilation. I have used it for fish ponds and it works very well. I pour mine in 2 or 3 layers, depending on how deep the pond is. And, I have let it partially set up before pouring to simulate a water fall. Works great!


Birdcages: I found a site you might be interested in for the bird cages - they carry many shapes and sizes.

Elizabeth Smith

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