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Transferring Prints: You will need:
photocopy made with dry toner (most print shops have this type)
pure gum turpentine
blotting paper
large metal spoon
cotton balls
natural fabric (cotton or silk)

1. Place blotting paper on table, (duh!) Lay well pressed fabric down on blotting paper.
2. Lay photocopy face down on fabric.
3. Dip cotton ball in turpentine (not too soggy!) and rub back of copy until it becomes opaque.
4. Rub back of the photocopy very hard with spoon.
5. Carefully life up corner to check image. If too faint, use a bit more turpentine & try again.
6. Remove photocopy. Iron image into the silk. (I assume face up, although she doesn't say so.)

Sharon in Watsonville

Image Copyright: As the owner and editor of an e'zine, I can tell you that if you own a clip art program, then you own those images and can do with them what you want. I have a great one with tons and tons of fabulous artwork that I plan to use for paintings in my dollhouses. If you want to use something you find on the web, the best thing to do is email the web person for that site and find out if they will allow you to copy the image. 9 times out of 10, it won't be copyrighted -- and if it is, I bet telling the owner you want to use it privately in a dh will get you permission.

Check the small print on those clip art copyright notices. Dover, for example, frequently states "These images belong to Dover Full-Color Electronic Design Series. You may use them for graphics and crafts applications, free and without special permission, provided that you include no more than ten in the same publication or project." And there is more... Some I have seen limit it to only four in the same project!


Lamp Shades: Just go to Jim Collins site and click on printables then listed under furniture you will find various lamp shades that you may print out.

Marilyn from Michigan

Lamp Shades: Material/technique chosen depends if the lamp will be lit or not. If not lit, a lot of "found art" items make useful lampshades. In 1/12th size, a toothpaste cap makes an interesting "smaller" fluted shade for bedside night table etc. Other plastic screw caps for household cleaners and such make larger shades and many have appropriate tapers (smaller at top than bottom) I know there are some lampshade "printies" out there also.

For lighted fixtures, translucence in interesting tones becomes important and a bit of framework to give shadow lines is also helpful in achieving realism. For the most simple shades, roll a slightly conical shape using velum, tracing or parchment paper, interesting colored stationary papers, etc. If you try to glue just at one "meeting edge" the glue line will be ugly when the light shows through. Rather, make the cone oversize and trim so the paper is two layers thick but with the two edges precisely aligned. This will assure you only get one "splice line" and evenly modified translucence all the way around. Dope the whole thing with clear model airplane dope and clip to dry using alligator clips above and below the portion you will keep. If you work your roll so it wants to go tighter than finished on the outside and looser on the inside, the edges should draw together tightly. WARNING: If you are like me, you will mess up many attempts before getting the feel for it all. As you practice, you will begin to experiment with techniques to get fancy with the paper and to cover the paper form with gathered fabrics, etc. When you are getting really good at it, contact me for illustrated techniques to make "concave" silk shades and such.

Carefully form a bit of thin brass wire into a pair of circles the interior size of the lampshade top and bottom. If you are skilled at soldering, use steel wool and paint thinner to remove the protective coating from the brass while it is still straight and easy to clean. If you will "glue" your frame, leave the coating on. When the paper form is fully dried, carefully drop your rings into it and position them with a small probe to be perfectly parallel with each other, perpendicular to the center line of the shade.

Cut two straight pieces of wire to precisely fit from small "upper" ring to larger "lower" ring. Position opposite each other with tweezers and a probe. Align one of these directly over the "paper splice" line. Spray additional coats of clear dope to bond these in place and allow to dry. If you can avoid its getting onto the paper, you may choose to add tiny drops of gap filing super glue where the straight and ring pieces come together and where the rings close on themselves.

When dope is FULLY (!!!!!) cured, clip most of the excess paper from top and bottom using iris or cuticle scissors. Finish with very fine sand paper so edges are within 1/32" of the rings. Set the shade bottom side up. Make and install two straight pieces of brass wire across the inside of the top rings so that they are approximately 1/32" apart. These will be the "span" upon which your shade will hang over the bulb. Obviously, you will need to create a "harp" to reach up from the lamp body, around the bulb, and support the shade.

You may choose to "finish" even the simplest shade in any number of ways. A very fine hem of paper, embroidery floss, marking pen color, or some such would be minimal. Fringe or crystal pendants would probably go on more ornate examples. During some periods, it was fashionable to have painted or decal illustrations and designs on some shades. This may be a simple geometric pattern along the hems or a decal such as those intended for fingernails or miniature tiles right smack in the middle of two or three faces.

Useful tools are:
-A wire roller, ring sizer, and flush-cut wire cutters (frame)
-iris or cuticle scissors and a very fine emery board (trimming edges)
-spray booth (cardboard box) to paint and let dry - Use ventilated area
-small size alligator clips (clamp paper and suspend shades while paint dries)
-dental probe and tweezers (positioning frame parts)
-sewing needle with half of eye ground away and handle added at point end (used to precisely apply super glue)
-penlight flashlight with bulb extended beyond the end (home made) used to check shadow lines and papers.

Mel Koplin

Lamp Shades: I carry Lamp Shade Kits by Tec Innovations. Go to their web site, , to see their products. I carry #348, 347 & 328 all of the time. I can order any of the others.

Eileen Vernon

Lamp Shades: back when Dollhouse Miniatures was still Nutshell News, Joann Swanson had a project with dozens of lampshades. If you contact DM's web site, you may be able to get a copy of the article, as I'm sure the issue is out of print by now. Also, check your local library. Helen Ruthberg's and Joan McElroy's books (out of print, alas) also have patterns and instructions for shades and may be available there.

Loretta Sniarowski

Fuzzy paper. I recently received a package of 'Micro format fuzzy paper' from The Imagination Gallery. This paper can go through your printer without leaving any little 'fuzzies' to gum it up.

I used Paint Shop Pro to print out some small scale rugs on it, and it worked wonderfully. (They also have something called 'Fabric Carrier' which I thought at first was some kind of tote bag...but no, it's a paper that you can back your thin fabric with, put it through the printer, print on the fabric, and then peel off the backing. Sounds very interesting to me, and I think I'll order a package this week.) They have a lot of other papers and decal makers that might be of use to us miniaturists too.

Kaye in L.A.

Decals in foreign languages. If you can use your printer you can make them yourself! Go to a language translation website such as http://www.babelfish.comto translate (if you don't know how to say 'flour' etc. in German) then type in whatever font and size you want and print out on decal paper available in WalMart, Staples etc.

Alice Zinn

Pet shop printables, plus huge selection of others: Go to the bottom of the screen and click on My Printables site 1. On the next screen in the left hand column is "pet supplies". This has printables of all sorts of pet supply boxes and bags. The whole site is full of an incredible range of items but does take a bit of effort to get around. Each of the links on the home page has printables, plus each of the listed "My printable site #" at the bottom. I have found that some of the printables needed a little modification to put together but it was simple enough for me to work out.

Wendy in Clinton, NJ

Color Preservation: you might try using a clear, acrylic spray sealer on your printables.....I use Patricia Nimock's brand, but there are others out there, too. I prefer the matte finish (there's gloss as well) and use it for all my houseplant kit parts.

Laura in OKC

Tapestry: Outstanding site for Tapestry research..... lovely pictures etc. This is an old friend from Arroyo Grande Ca. We're in Florida now and haven't keep in touch like we should. Good people, ask and I'm sure you can copy some of his images for mini work. No problem with copyright from Ron. . . he's cool.


Dress pattern envelopes: here is a Dutch site with dress pattern packets: It has a wide variety of other printies as well.


One solution to avoiding Cut Off Printables: Don't print the page as presented on the Web. Or, before you do, click on "File" -- "Print Preview" to see if it will all fit on one page, or break at a convenient place. If not, try this:

Right-click on each image and save the individual image files to your hard drive. I create a new folder and call it "printable trunk" or whatever. Then I save all the parts (images) to that.

You can print the page if it contains text instructions, so you will have those to follow. You can save on your ink by changing your browser's preference settings to not print images if you want. Just don't forget to change it back! Or copy the text to NotePad or Word Pad and save the file to the same folder.

Now, open Word, or your favorite image editing program, like Paint Shop Pro. Create you own layout with the images, arranged so they won't be cut off when printed. Print!

Anne Gerdes

HP printers: For the people who asked about printables continuing to another sheet, instead of the whole page printing on one sheet of paper: the first thing I'd try is this - when you click on Print and get the HP print screen, click on properties. You may be able to change the page margins there. (I could with my old printer - not the newer one.) You can also try setting the paper size to 8 1/2 X 14. If that still doesn't work, copy and paste the printable to a paint or photo editing program, click on print, set the margins for the page closer to the top and bottom (that is, instead of a one-inch top margin, make it 1/2 inch - same for the bottom.) Then print it.

Nancy in Indiana

New Garden Shed Printie: Well, it is almost done. I just have to finish the instructions. I have put a picture of the Garden Shed Printie Project on my site. I also put a message to all of you and I need your help. If you could take a look and read my message and let me know. Just click on the url below.


Garden Shed: If you are talking about the printable garden shed this is the website...

Hope you have as much fun building as I did!!


Fading Printables: if you go to this site, you can obtain a wealth of information on papers and inks that will resist fading (some for over 100 years).

Tom Berkner

Tiny stamps: I once owned a ceramic shop and as I was going though some files ( to make room for my mini info) I found some stamping tools. They are by Erika Zavori. They come in seasonal, animal (also a rooster) flowers and many different designs that I think will work for our Minis. You can use them to make wallpaper, stamp on you dishes, make title for the bath or kitchen. Just think of all the things you could use them for. If you are interested here is the web site.

Dianne in Minnesota

Printing on Fabric: Another way of printing to fabric is to use waxed freezer paper that is available in your grocery store, look for it where the other wraps are sold.
1. Cut a piece of freezer paper the same letter size as your regular printer paper.
2. Cut lightweight cotton fabric the same size as printer paper, I use my husband's old cotton dress shirts.
3. Place the freezer paper shiny side up on ironing board.
4. Lay the material on top and press together making sure that all sides are well pressed.
5. Insert into your printer, fabric side down (at least with a HP printer) and print away.

Works great! I've printed out rugs and fringed the edges using this method and I'm very pleased with them. Be sure to spray your printed article with an acrylic sealer to insure the print is fixed.

Marilyn, MI

Printing on fabric: When I was just starting out in minis last Jan., I was very intrigued by the idea of printing on fabric. However, I could not find freezer paper anywhere. In surfing around, somewhere I ran across an idea which I have since used with no problem. I purchased full-size Avery mailing labels, peeled a label off the backing, and stuck muslin to the sticky side. Trimmed and fray-checked the edges and put it through the printer. Worked beautifully.

Linda in Leroy, OH

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