Resin, Caulking, Filling

Page: 4

Clear caulk for water: I know someone recently mentioned clear caulk for miniature water but warned of the strong smell- I must say I used some caulk for the real tub (yes I finished that renovation that was standing still for more than a year) I purchased something called 30 or 40 year caulk- don't remember the brand but it was worth a little more expense as IT DID NOT SMELL AT ALL! 

Teresa from Canada

Clear Caulking; I have used clear caulking (DAP & GE)which does the intended job. Odor free and very cost effective. I also found out that shower and tub caulking that goes on white dries clear. Since it is not a silicone product, it can be manipulated with a wet finger.

drbob..Delray Beach, FL.

Glue Micro-Scale Pieces: Building micro scale (1:144) minis, I frequently don't use "glue" at all. I bond most of the tiniest parts where strength is not crucial with clear lacquer. It penetrates wood deeply, allows a little bit of shifting into place, and doesn't "fatten" the joint. Some sort of light clamping is suggested but only to maintain alignment. I good trick is to press the parts into a pad of soft clay. When you have an impression that will hold the parts in alignment, glue with lacquer and set in place. Lacquer IS NOT STRONG! For tiny, single-point connections such as a Kachina head dress to a head, drill a pair of #80 holes and insert a piece of fine wire (with lacquer) to connect the parts. If the parts are too small to drill, see if you can razor cut very shallow grooves that will be out of sight (In the back?). Lay a fine piece of wire or thread into these grooves to reinforce the joint. For very fine wire, cut the insulation off of a bit of "lamp cord". Very fine stuff. If you still can't fix the Kachina, put the pieces on a piece of miniature newspaper with a bottle of miniature glue and some miniature toothpicks and set the whole display on the kitchen table.

Mel Koplin

Modifying resin: After I am done with my carving work on resin figures (using a Dremel tool and small steel cutters), I lightly sand to smooth out the area as needed, then use acrylic paint to repaint or touch up the carved area. (which now looks white). I don't handle these much, so I have never sealed them, but you could easily spray them with matte sealer if you prefer. There are lots of resin figures for sale cheap around the various holidays - this is just one way you might be able to modify and use them at other times.

Bonnie Gibson - Tucson, Arizona

Ceramics: If you want to repeat something many times you can use a plaster mold and low fire liquid ceramic slip. Some molds are 1, 2 or many parts. Open molds you just pour in the clay and it begins to set up. When it is as thick as you want you pour the remaining slip out (and reuse it). For 2 or more part molds you put them together and rubber band them tightly. Then you pour in the slip and do the same as the open mold. When the clay in the mold gets to a leather hardness it has shrunk enough to come out easily. This is the best point in which to clean up the mold lines, thin the lip, and do anything else you want to with it. When dry, you fire it to cone 04. There are many other things to know about (i.e. porcelains, etc.) but this was the fast answer.

Jacqui, in Hilo, Hawaii

Releasing Clay from Molds: To release polymer clay from your bunny mold, you may be told to use talc, baby oil, pam, etc. But the simplest solution is water. Spray a fine mist of water into the mold, press in the polymer clay, and gently remove the bunny from the mold.

Mary Eccher

Molds: I use Plasticene to make molds - but then, it depends on whether you want to keep the mold for future use. I like it because I can squish it up and use it again. I make my doll face molds from Fimo - what else? I wait until the shop sells off the unpopular colors at sale time and buy some of them up.

Lynne Connolly

Molds: In the Micro-Mark catalog they carry two forms of silicone rubber for making molds. They are both two part products, add A to B and then it is ready to use. One comes in a liquid and the other is a putty. It is rather expensive so I don't know if this is feasible for you. I have debated using it to make the fancy moldings my daughter needs for the ceilings and walls in her colonial dollhouse, but it is so costly it might be cheaper to just buy the moldings! Would a good acrylic house caulking work? The good stuff is strong and flexible, at least that is what my husband says. We want to make the moldings of plaster and thought we might try using caulk, let it set until hard and then peel it off and pour in plaster. How about using Milliput? It is a British two part epoxy putty that is suppose to dry as hard as porcelain and can be rolled very thin.

Marsha in Wisconsin

Molds: Recently, someone ask about what could be used to make molds - have you tried Magic Mold made by the Crayola company? We use it to make molds for cake decorations - It gets firm enough to press what ever you are trying to make a mold of into it with out firing and then easily releases.


Molds: There are several products you can use depending on the complexity of the original and the material from which it is constructed. If it is fairly simple and from metal wood or anything that will withstand heat you can use a rubber product that is melted over heat, poured over the original and when cool can be pealed off and either resin or plaster cast into the form. If you want to duplicate something from plastic then use one of the two part silicone rubber products that you mix and pour and then make either a one or two part (or more) mold depending on the complexity of the item.

Roberta, Durban, South Africa

Molds: for casting I use a soft rubber mix specifically for casting in resin. I make a mold of my item out of this soft rubber, cast it in resin, make a plaster mold then pour my porcelain slip into my plaster mold. I am at home and do not have the product name at the tip of my tongue, however, it is expensive. It comes in two separate jars, you knead the two doughs together, cast your item, and within 15 minutes it has hardened. It is pliable so you can use a one piece mold, pour in your resin, let it harden for 15 minutes, then cut the rubber mold to retrieve your item in resin.

Rhonda in FL

Plaster Molds: You can use plaster to make a mold for something that will be plaster. And Murphy's oil is the right parting agent. The company that I buy my plaster from makes large plaster figurines, lamps and displays. That is their exact method. If there are any undercuts, however, you would be better off with rubber. Plaster is unforgiving.

Debbie Olsen

PLASTER AND PLASTER MOLDS: Suggest going to model railroad stores and getting "Hydrocal" rather than ordinary plaster or Plaster of Paris. Somewhat finer or more intricate/faithful detail. When pouring plaster into molds, turn an electric orbital sander upside down and clamp it to your bench. (I built a custom cradle to hold mine upside down). Tape your mold to the bottom of the sander. Turn sander on during pour. Vibration will help send air bubbles to the top and settle wet plaster/Hydrocal into the tiniest crevices.

Mel Koplin, Las Vegas

For a video on making rubber molds and casting write to or call:

Bragdon Enterprises
2960 Garden Tower Lane
Georgetown, California 95634

Phone 530-333-1365 ask for Joel.

The video is $20 last priced. It is very well worth it as it will show you how to make a great variety of molds. Even how to make Tiffany style lamp shades. At least ask for the price list.

He also sells the Rubber mold material and casting resins. Both are equal part A-B mixes and easy to use.

Bill Hudson

Another mold material is Liquid Latex, available at model rail road stores. This is a time consuming method but works well for duplicating such things as textured surfaces (Rocks).

Bill Hudson

Stuff to use for dipping: to all those who are looking for the stuff to dip shaped wires into. Not only Sobo glue works but colorless nail polish. there is also a liquid sold by MicroMark that is used for making "windows" for HO or N scale models which is probably the same as the glue or nail polish. I have been using the Sobo for years. you can dip the wire or "paint" the glue across the wire. it dries clear and can then be painted.

Gracia in California

Making moulds, have you ever heard of Gelflex? I have used this for crafts (not minis yet) it is a rubber type of material in a block, you cut off what you need and melt it, pour it over the item and it sets. But as it is a rubber like substance it is flexible enough to remove the master, and again to remove the made item at the end. I hope this helps as it is a great product.


Filling Gaps With Stucco: We just finished a wonderful dollhouse for a customer and discovered a trick I thought you might like to hear about. We put stucco on all the ceilings (it's pretty contemporary), so it left a small gap when we installed the cornices at the ceiling. By putting caulking in a monoject, we were able to fill in the slight gap and it gave the whole thing a wonderfully finished look. It also filled tiny gaps between sheets of wainscoting, between baseboard and floor or wall, etc. The small size of the monoject made it easy to get into tight places and the thin, thin line of caulk possible using this tool was just right for those tiny areas. It gave it a finished look and spiffed up the whole thing. It also filled in the mitered corners of the pre-made windows so they looked more finished. I don't think we will ever build another without using this to finish! I've used the caulking before (it's great to strengthen those awful tab and slot houses by filling in gaps where walls and floors meet as well as filling in the slots around the tabs) but this is the first time we've used it for finish work.

Dottie in Tucson

Plaster vs. Joint Compound for Piped Molding: You could try joint compound, but I expect you will be disappointed. Joint compound is designed to shrink as it dries, thereby making the joint less visible (ever noticed that they have to cover nail heads 2 or 3 time - cause it leaves a dimple when it dries). This will make your 'molding' smaller than it started. More significantly, if you have it very thick (like over 1/8" or 1/4") the surface will dry too quickly compared to the inside, and it will crack. Using joint cement, you have produced an object from glue, which is still water soluble.

Plaster, on the other hand sets up by a chemical reaction, not by drying (which happens later). The reaction happens quickly and the entire batch sets all at one time (or very close to it). By using plaster, you have basically made something of stone.

Tom Berkner

Stone Finish: Depending on your outside soil, we have a lot of shale (flat rocks, that will split in layers) and I applied them with latex caulking, large tube used with a caulking gun, it comes in several colors to give you the mortar. Also could use crushed stone, sold for driveways.

Alice Prsoky

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