To Find Miniature Shops in Certain Areas: Use the Online Yellow Pages: www.yellowpages.com

Just type in a city, pick a radius of however many miles you'd like, pick the subject, i.e. miniatures, fabric, arts and craft stores, whatever, and then search! You can print out the results and often get directions as well!

Alice Zinn

Paper Mache: I have made a "yard" out of it for one of my houses. I used newspaper, and a white (Elmer's, or another comparable school white glue -- not paste!!) glue/water prep (sticky but runny, if the mixture is opaque then there is too much water, if it is too sticky, add more water). Don't use flour/salt and water preps, just asking for critters. Newspaper has a grain much like fabric, and you will be able to rip the nicest, straightest strips if you are holding it the right way, generally with the written word as opposed to ripping through it, if that makes sense. Rip your print, and moisten (not soak) in the glue/water mixture. Let every layer dry completely, that way you will get a good solid coverage and nothing will peel. Also, alternate which way your strips go, that way you build up a good base. At the end, it can be nicely painted. You can speed up the drying process with a hair blower/dryer.

Kim from Canada

Printing on Fabric: Be sure to have a good image to begin with. Save it as a tif file for printed output not a jpg or gif. Because jpg format compresses as it saves, the image will lose quality each time they're resaved. gif only supports 256 colors. If you're scanning an image use at least 150 dpi for printed output. The 75 dpi is fine for scanning images to use on homepages, but your printer will support greater dpi output. Also be sure to check your printer options and settings to get the best output.

Use whatever fabric you like, (natural fiber is recommended). I usually take sizing out of fabric first and press it very smooth before printing on it. If you don't take the sizing out, the ink sits on top too much, rather than bonding with the fibers.Cut it to 8 1/2 x 11 inches and affix it to full-page Avery Labels. Rip off the paper backing, as you would with any stick on label, then affix the fabric to the sticky side, once again making sure it covers the leading edge in particular completely (no sticky label extending beyond the fabric so the label won't stick to your printer rollers).

Load it in your printer (making sure which side should be up), and print! Depending on the fabric, you may want to seal the edges from unraveling with a thin bead of glue. After printing, let it dry and cure for several hours and then iron with dry iron as hot as your fabric will take, then spray with two coats of fixative, drying and pressing in-between. Don't remove label until all the pressing and spraying is complete. Much easier to handle and keep square.

You can use the Avery labels over and over again, until the stick-um doesn't grip well at the edges any longer.

Anne Gerdes

Printing your own fabric: Just read Anne's hint about printing on fabric. I have not tried exactly what Anne suggested, but have printed on fabric for quite a while and have a few comments. Judee' Williamson (my biz partner and fabric maven) ALWAYS pulls threads on the fabric first so that the fabric itself is square, and then cuts the fabric along the pull lines. She considers it a vital point! Then she irons the fabric to a piece of freezer paper. The freezer paper can be used over and over. It holds the fabric gently. The fabric can easily be removed from freezer paper. And the paper is cut to the correct size - usually 8 1/2" x 11" - and fed into the printer just as Anne described.

Nicole Walton Marble

To print on fabric I use my ordinary bubblejet printer. Take a piece of thin cotton lawn (for some reason off white gives the best results) glue it on a piece of regular paper, only the bottom and the sides with a glue stick (or iron it on freezing paper for you Americans, we don't have that here) Make sure that the bottom of the paper and the fabric are cut in one line, and feed this through your printer. On some printers' setup you can click on "fabric sheet" but I use the normal setting. When printed, peel the fabric off the sheet and iron (without steam) to set the colors.

You can make all sorts of things like that: tablecloths, carpets, curtains (matching the wallpaper) etc. I copied some material on my scanner and reduced it to scale, then printed it on fabric.

I heard that in America you can buy something like bubblejet set, but as we cannot buy that here in New Zealand I have no experience with it.

Dorothee

Fabric Printing: After the size has been washed out, no fabric softener in rinse water..Poly/cotton works best, iron to shiny side of white freezer paper, rule cut line with sheet of paper and cut inside of line to have 8-1/2 x 11 regular size paper. Print like special paper option on inkjet printer and let dry, cover with press cloth an design is permanent. In regular size they can be washed.

Lenora

Printing on Fabric:  I've got directions for one way to print on fabric at http://wingsnthings.tripod.com/spring.htm   It uses a regular printer and fabric ironed onto freezer paper.

Lee Menconi

Printing Fabric: I like to buy the packages of June Tailor Printer Fabric. Wal-Mart in the quilting dept, 4.00. And I have also bought it at Hobby Lobby for 5.29, and seen it at JoAnn's. There are 4 sheets to the package and it comes in bleached or unbleached muslin. It's fabric on sticky paper (like the labels) For rugs, I leave the backing on to stabilize. Then I add fringe if I want to. For quilts, upholstery, clothing, curtains and pillows and such, I peel the backing off. I have had really good experiences using this. I do have the capacity to print and iron on like transfers, but haven't found this necessary. I have had no problems with the fabric through the printer. I do make sure there are no loose threads on the sheet before I put it through.

Fannye

Fabric Printing: One other word on the fabric printing. I took regular fabric (black with red cherries) for the ME room. Scanned it, reduced it, then printed it for wallpaper and fabric. Had wonderful teensy cherry paper and fabric.

Fannye

Printing on Fabric:You need to "fix" the printing in the fabric before steaming or ironing. Use "Patricia Nimocks Spray Fixative" Matte. It's available from Dee's Delights - and therefore any miniature shop.

Nicole Marble

Printing on Fabric: I found this product on a quilt store site. I think that it could be very useful all of us who want to match fabric to the wallpaper we are using in a room. This is the web site: http://www.rosiescalicocupboard.com./index.html

BUBBLE JET SET ~ A new way to print on fabric. (WILL NOT WASH OUT!) This is a permanent inkset for inkjet and bubble jet printers. Results may vary with different printers and inks. Makes ink jet printing permanent on regular cotton or silk fabric. Stop Buying Fabric Sheets - NOW you can make your own!!! You saturate fabric in the solution for 5 minutes. Lay flat to dry until fabric is stiff. Iron fabric to smooth side of freezer paper. Cut to size to fit your printer.

Print on treated fabric and let set for 24 hours for best results. Rinse with cold water before machine wash.

Ann Fisher

1/4 Scale Teapot Walls: There are three options I'd suggest for your teapot walls. One is to snip thin wedges out of the paper to help it conform to the teapot curves, something like the way tiny 'v'-cuts are made in fabric to help ease it around a curve. The second is to cut walls from matboard and fit those in place rather than leaving the interior curved. I think I'd paint the curved walls, then if you want a print you can either paint dots or flowers on them or cut little bitty designs from paper or fabric and glue them in place.

Pam

1/4 Scale Teapot Walls: There are three options I'd suggest for your teapot walls.  One is to snip thin wedges out of the paper to help it conform to the teapot curves, something like the way tiny 'v'-cuts are made in fabric to help ease it around a curve.  The second is to cut walls from matboard and fit those in place rather than leaving the interior curved.  I think I'd paint the curved walls, then if you want a print you can either paint dots or flowers on them or cut little bitty designs from paper or fabric and glue them in place.

Pam

Fabric Shopping in S.F. - If Gunne Sax (dress manufacturer) is still in business, they had a factory outlet So. of Market St. (I believe on Howard st.) and they are a wonderful source of tiny prints on lightweight fabric. Her designs were very frilly, lacy and feminine - and old fashioned. I still have some of the fabrics in my "attic shop" and they are great for mini scale - if the outlet is no longer there, try thrift stores for old dresses and cut them up! It sounds sacreligious, but it is a great source.

Jacqui Marlin

Roombox Exteriors: I've completed many roomboxes, and finish the outside almost exclusively with sewing fabric applied with Tacky Glue. It gives a neater, more durable finish and is less likely to be spoiled by handling than if you wallpaper it. You can also apply sewing trims around the "window" portion of the box -- possibilities are endless. For a while, I was able to find a brick print on fabric which was in 1/12 scale. Quilting fabric stores and JoAnn's are great sources. Let your imagination run wild.

Anita Myers

LAMPSHADES: The shade's shape determines if ribbon will work. If it's a drum (same width top & bottom), ribbon is ok. If it's tapered (narrower at top), the ribbon will bunch and look lumpy unless you make a gathered or pleated shade. To fit the taper, the fabric must be on the bias so it has some give to it. If that's the case, make a pattern. Remove the existing shade from the lamp and set it on its side on a piece of paper. Roll the shade in a circle along its narrower end while you trace the edge onto the paper with pencil. Repeat, this time tracing the wider end. Result is a circle inside a circle wreath shape. Cut out, slit from line to line and wrap over the shade to fit. Leave a small overlap and trim away the extra paper. Then pin this C-shaped pattern to your fabric, cut out, and glue to shade. Even easier, use a compass -- measure the small circle and draw it on paper with the compass, then measure the length of the shade and draw another circle that size, cut out wreath shape etc. A bias-cut shade will look best in solid color or allover print; stripes end up wandering off track and don't look right. For trim, now that the craft stores have their holiday ribbons and trims out, look for tiny self-stick silver, gold, and other metallic braids if you don't want fringe.

Loretta Sniarowski

Oilcloth:

1. Tape a sheet of wax paper or heavy foil to your work surface.

2. Tape your chosen paper [cut larger than final item it is to be] to the wax paper or foil on all 4 sides with tape about 1/4 on the surface.

3. Pour the Mod Podge into a flat container.

4. Dip a 1 - 1 1/2" foam brush in the Podge and spread a thin coat on paper in one direction only. Watch for bubbles.

5. Repeat. 4-6 coats on the sheet, drying thoroughly between applications.

6. For more drape-ability, do not Podge the back. If you are doing a floor cloth, podge 3 coats on the back.

7. Cut the paper into shape and size needed. Use podge to simulate wooden floors using paper that resembles hard wood floors.

or:

Transfer printed pictures to fabric. Photocopy desired picture. Coat the PRINTED side of the copy with a thick coat of opaque transfer medium, (Picture This, Modge Podge, etc.) Lay the COATED side down in the center of a piece of 100% cotton broadcloth. Flatten and smooth. Allow it to dry several hours. Using a wet sponge, gently rub the paper off. It is all off when the material doesn't feel gritty. Be careful not to rub too hard or the print will come off. Let dry and trim. It has a sheen and body to it like oil cloth.

Sandy in Alberta

Lettering on fuzzy ribbon - I did try the rub on letters myself some years ago and wasn't happy with the result. I know in Australia we can buy sheets of iron on felt that you can cut shapes out of and iron on but that would be too thick. The only success I had was to cut a silk screen - a really tiny one - and screen print with fabric paint (thick fabric paint). I did print with a white glue first to seal the ribbon and that worked. Maybe you could paint with white glue or similar then try your white paint. Good Luck..

Trace

Spraying printed items: There are probably many types of spray that you could use to keep the water based ink used in the inkjet printers from smearing. I would not use a water based spray as it will cause the ink to run. I use Design Master Super Surface Sealer. You can find it in most craft stores. It is used for all crafts and also for artificial flowers. It can also be used on delicate fabrics and ribbons to keep them from soiling and to preserve them. Apply a very light coat first (it is important to use a very light coat first and let dry to seal the ink.) then another couple of thin coats. It really works. You can wipe glue off printed material after using this spray and letting it dry. I have even wet the surface a little to wipe some soiled spots off. It also makes the paper much stronger.

Barbara Del Duco

50's kitchens: Didn't we have the quilted small appliance covers back then? They were either plain colors or fabric prints. Used on the toaster, coffee pot, etc. in a set. All of our appliances were chrome, I think (can't remember) and took fingerprints real good. Therefore the use of the covers. The coffee pot we had was an electric percolator. with the little basket on a removable metal stand. Little glass knob on top so you could see the coffee perking and the lower couple of inches was black. Our 1st kitchen was all white (apartment) and the "freezer" made ice cubes -- but the frozen food didn't stay frozen very long. Especially, the ice cream.

Our 1st house had all the kitchen cabinets painted aqua. (The house was 32 yrs. old when we bought it and this was the modernization.) Although the appliances had been updated, prior to WWll. The house was so old that you could see thru the cracks in the floor boards into the basement when the sun was shining at the right angle. This was just in one bedroom. Covered it up with a carpet--but cold in winter. The house had sometime in it's past been raised and a basement dug--formerly a crawl space. This resulted in the 1st floor of the house tilting to one side. Well, when you dropped something you just had to look on the downside of the room! We had a lot of laughs. Young and foolish. But when we sold we made enough $$$ that we had lived free for those years. It was located in Arlington, Va. just above Key bridge and real estate was becoming very expensive by that time. It's gone now, replaced by a high-rise.

Elise in Va.